Maxi Tiles
This small, repeatable design can be made using the interlocking crochet technique or the overlay mosaic crochet technique. The fully written pattern and charts for both techniques can be found for free here on my website or is available for purchase as a printable PDF.
Please remember, copyright applies to free patterns as well.
Paid PDF Available
If you would prefer a printable PDF version of the pattern you can purchase Maxi Tiles (and it’s one of my least expensive patterns). I appreciate your support a lot!
Other ways to support me include sharing your progress with my patterns on social media! A photo often inspires others!
2024 Update
Three years after publishing this pattern and I’ve just been notified that there’s a major error in the interlocking crochet version! I’m so embarrassed.
The repeat for height DID NOT work at all.
The mosaic crochet pattern was fine but the way I did the repeats was awkward.
So I’ve completely reformatted both versions! <3
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Maxi Tiles Origin Story
Late one night, instead of sleeping, I was browsing Facebook…
and I came across a post where someone shared a photo of a pretty design she saw on the wrapper for her feminine hygiene products.
Everyone agreed this pattern could be beautiful in crochet-form! And my brain said, ‘yes, I will do that now instead of everything else on my to-do list; this is now the most urgent task!’
And so…
So, using the photo of the wrapper, I drew up this design and turned it into a pattern!
Also,
Way back then I was using the term “Locked Filet Mesh” to refer to my interlocking crochet designs. They mean the same thing and I prefer to use LFM (when I’m feeling lazy) or interlocking crochet now.
Take Note
The interlocking crochet method creates mesh dots all over, and I kept those dots in the mosaic crochet option.
Yarn Choice
I am a fan of using up scrap yarn. I often buy yarn when it’s on sale because I know it can sit on my shelf and won’t expire and I may not always be able to get it at that sale price!
So, after making small squares for both techniques, I used scrap yarn for my mosaic crochet blanket sample.
I used this mottled blue yarn and some random white yarn. They are both worsted weight (4 – medium) acrylic yarns.
I ran out of the blue and switched to red yarn (strategically and on purpose at the design change).
I then went back to my blue yarn but I wasn’t expecting to get very far.
Imagine my surprise when I found another scrap ball of the same blueish-purple!
But…
But, alas, it too eventually ran out.
This blanket now sits in my “maybe I can add more yarn and finish that later” pile.
Repeatable and Size Adjustable
You can create one tile at a time and sew them together (more likely with the interlocking crochet version because the mosaic would have a lot of cut ends to worry about). But the pattern is written so that you can do a bunch of repeats until your piece is as big as you want it!
Calculating the Repeats (Interlocking Crochet)
You can make one tile at a time and sew a bunch of squares together (handy if you want lots of different colors) or you can repeat the pattern all in one go and make it as wide and high as you like!
How wide do you want your blanket? Let’s pick 60” as an example (that’s a throw sized blanket); if you’re matching my gauge this is the formula: 60” / 4” per repeat = 15 repeats.
The MC foundation row will need 15 repeats of 16 FSC, plus 5. This gets us a total of 245 stitches.
If you’re using chains instead of FSC you’ll need to add one more chain as the turning chain (246 in our example) before making the 245 single crochet stitches.
Remember that if you do 15 repeats across you don’t have to do 15 repeats for height. You can create a rectangle; it doesn’t have to be square.
Calculating the Repeats (Overlay Mosaic Crochet)
You can make one tile at a time and sew a bunch of squares together (handy if you want lots of different colors) or you can repeat the pattern all in one go and make it as wide and high as you like!
How wide do you want your blanket? Let’s pick 60” as an example (that’s a throw sized blanket); if you’re matching my gauge this is the formula: 60” / 4” per repeat = 15 repeats.
The MC foundation row will need 15 repeats of 16 FSC, plus 5. This gets us a total of 245 stitches.
If you’re using chains instead of FSC you’ll need to add one more chain as the turning chain (246 in our example) before making the 245 single crochet stitches.
Remember that if you do 15 repeats across you don’t have to do 15 repeats for height. You can create a rectangle; it doesn’t have to be square.
Free Online Version
This page is where you can find the free-to-view pattern for Maxi Tiles.
The important yardage details apply to both techniques.
Each technique starts with its own key.
Tutorials First
If you’re new to interlocking crochet or overlay mosaic crochet you may wish to start with my tutorials.
I also have full walk-thrus of some patterns on YouTube, so you can see every stitch and follow along.
While you’re in the learning phase, please checkout my copyright notice.
Click here to Jump to the Interlocking Crochet Pattern
Click here to Jump to the Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern
Interlocking Crochet
Interlocking crochet is a colorwork technique where you create two layers of mesh locked together. You work one row at a time, alternating between the two contrasting colors.
Original Overlay Mosaic Crochet
With this colorwork option you use one of two stitches to either show or hide the previous row. Your yarn gets cut at the end of each row and you don’t flip your work,
You can see the interlocking mesh dots even when you use the overlay mosaic crochet technqiue. I do not plan on updating this pattern to have a ‘solid’ mosaic crochet version.
Read more about these techniques at https://ashleeslint.com/tutorials/interlocking-and-mosaic-crochet/.
Each file includes:
- line-by-line written pattern
- instructions on reading a chart
- a one-page chart (mosaic marked with X’s)
Important Details (for both techniques)
- US Crochet terminology
- Finished size approximately 5”
- Each repeat adds about 4”
- 4.5 mm hook (US7)
- Worsted weight yarn (40 yards)
- Main color – 20 yards
- Contrasting color – 20 yards
- Each repeat adds about 10 yards of each color
- Mosaic Gauge: 16 stitches x 16 rows = 4″
- LFM Gauge: 16 stitches x 8 rows = 4″
Copyright Statement
© Ashlee Brotzell 2024, 2020.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.
What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.
Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website www.ashleeslint.com
Free Interlocking Crochet Pattern
Take note, if you’re used to doing my patterns, the foundation rows are different for this one!
See above for note about calculating repeats.
Interlocking crochet sample of Maxi Tiles.
Two repeats wide by two visual repeats tall.
Purple used as Main Color.
Interlocking Key
AC = accent color (white on chart / background color)
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1
Back = the side not facing you
ch = chain
dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC
ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space
F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1
Front = the side currently facing you
MC = main color (blue on chart)
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
sk = skip a stitch
tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Interlocking Crochet Chart
I don’t normally include the chart in my free patterns online because it makes it easier for thieves but I’ve taken the risk and included the chart and chart key here this time.
Interlocking Crochet Foundation Rows
This design has a slightly different locking method around the edges. I typically do the foundation rows a little differently – you can do the ‘normal’ way if you’d like! It won’t change much.
- Using MC create repeats of 8 + 2 windows:
- I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed). See how at https://youtu.be/_3So3Pe8GWc?t=100
- Alternatively, you can chain repeats of 16 + 7, then DC in 5th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
2. With your AC, chain repeats of 16 + 5. Place MC windows under this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) and DC through the back of the SECOND window into the 5th chain from your hook.
Image above shows the wrong side (top sample) and right side (bottom sample) of a foundation setup. The right side has straight horizontal lines whereas the wrong side shows vertical dashes.
3. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end except the final one. The final double crochet will go in front of the MC windows (just like the first stitch had). Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.
Brackets and asterisks are used in the written pattern to indicate repeated sections.
Asterisks (*) show what part of the chart should be repeated whereas brackets just shorten the written pattern when there are small sections that happen to repeat.
See my detailed explanation: https://ashleeslint.com/2020/08/29/brackets-in-crochet-patterns/
Repeat between the asterisks (*) for your desired width.
WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)
4 MC – Ch3, *1B, 3F, 3B, 1F*, 1B, ES
5 AC – Ch3 in back, *8B*, EB
RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)
6 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 3F, 3B, 1F*, ES
7 AC – Ch3 in front, *(2B, 2F) x2*, EF
WS – ACB
8 MC – Ch3, *(1B, 1F) x2, 2B, 2F*, 1B, ES
9 AC – Ch3 in back, *5B, 3F*, EB
RS – ACF
10 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, (1F, 1B) x2, 1F*, ES
11 AC – Ch3 in front, *8B*, EF
WS – ACB
12 MC – Ch3, *1B, 3F, (1B, 1F) x2*, 1B, ES
13 AC – Ch3 in back, *3F, 5B*, EB
RS – ACF
14 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F*, ES
15 AC – Ch3 in front, *(2F, 2B) x2*, EF
WS – ACB
16 MC – Ch3, *1B, 1F, 3B, 3F*, 1B, ES
17 AC – Ch3 in back, *8B*, EB
Visually, one repeat in height is now complete. To finish off you can skip to rows 34-36 or you can do rows 18-33 to add another repeat in height.
RS – ACF
18 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 3F, 1B, 1F*, ES
19 AC – Ch3 in front, *8B*, EF
WS – ACB
20 MC – Ch3, *1B, 3F, 3B, 1F*, 1B, ES
21 AC – Ch3 in back, *8B*, EB
RS – ACF
22 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 3F, 3B, 1F*, ES
23 AC – Ch3 in front, *(2B, 2F) x2*, EF
WS – ACB
24 MC – Ch3, *(1B, 1F) x2, 2B, 2F*, 1B, ES
25 AC – Ch3 in back, *5B, 3F*, EB
RS – ACF
26 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, (1F, 1B) x2, 1F*, ES
27 AC – Ch3 in front, *8B*, EF
WS – ACB
28 MC – Ch3, *1B, 3F, (1B, 1F) x2*, 1B, ES
29 AC – Ch3 in back, *3F, 5B*, EB
RS – ACF
30 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F*, ES
31 AC – Ch3 in front, *(2F, 2B) x2*, EF
WS – ACB
32 MC – Ch3, *1B, 1F, 3B, 3F*, 1B, ES
33 AC – Ch3 in back, *8B*, EB
Visually, two repeats in height are now complete. You can finish off with rows 34-36 OR you can repeat from row 4 as many times as desired before finishing off.
RS – ACF
34 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 3F, 1B, 1F*, ES
35 AC – Ch3 in front, *8B*, EF
Cut and tie off AC.
WS
36 MC – Ch3, 1F, *8F*, ES
Cut and tie off OR add border first.
Watch border in action: https://youtu.be/_3So3Pe8GWc?t=4877
SC Border
Chain 1, put 2 sc in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).
Or my preferred method:
Revised SC border
Chain 1, put 1 sc in the MC gap, and then the second sc should pick up one loop of the AC as well as going through the MC gap. Do this in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 on the corners.
FINISHED!
Take a picture and share it!
@Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet
Free Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern
See above for note about calculating repeats.
Overlay Mosaic Crochet Navigation
Mosaic Key
Note my use of upper-case and lower-case letters in the written pattern
CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart, background color
ch = chain
DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice
dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below
ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly
FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, *yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously and repeat from *
JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet
MC = Main Color: blue in chart, first color used
SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
sc = SC into Back Loop only
dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below.
The single crochet behind the dropped double crochet does not get used.
sc = a single crochet in the body of the pattern is going into the Back Loop Only.
Mosaic Technique
Please see the YouTube tutorial (https://youtu.be/6YwXIqKqWjI) for more details. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending. You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.
- The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
- You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
- You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
- Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
- Yarn colors can be anything you like
- They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
- They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
- I prefer using a Foundation SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
- Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC
X-Marked Chart
Key and chart are shown here.
Brackets and asterisks are used in the written pattern to indicate repeated sections.
Asterisks (*) show what part of the chart should be repeated whereas brackets just shorten the written pattern when there are small sections that happen to repeat.
See my detailed explanation: https://ashleeslint.com/2020/08/29/brackets-in-crochet-patterns/
Foundation Row
Row 0:
Using the Main Color (MC) (blue on the chart), use the Foundation SC technique to create repeats of 16 + 5 FSC.
Or chain repeats of 16 + 6, SC in 2nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.
Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) and continue at row 1.
Remember: even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC.
Repeat between the asterisks (*) for your desired width.
CC 1 – JS, sc3, *sc16,* sc2, ES
MC 2 – JS, dc1, sc2, *sc16,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 3 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *sc16,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 4 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 5 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 6 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 7 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *sc4, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 8 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 9 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *sc6, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 10 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc7, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 11 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *sc16,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 12 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc7, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 13 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 14 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 15 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1,*(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 16 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
CC 17 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 18 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1,* sc1, dc1, ES
Repeat rows 3 through 18 as many times as desired and then finish off with rows 19 and 20.
CC 19 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, *sc16,* dc1, sc1, ES
MC 20 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc16,* sc1, dc1, ES
Trim the fringe, if needed.
Optional Envelope Border
Trim the fringe, if needed.
Add optional envelope border (YouTube: https://youtu.be/P-uXHjwTFeE).
FINISHED!
Take a picture and share it!
Hi!
Thank you so much for this cool pattern. I have a question on the mosaic version…JS, sc5, (sc16) x5, ES. I don’t understand what the sc in ( ) mean. I see above where it says change to contrasting color in( ) but you also say that you change colors every row. Help please! Thanks!
This row doesn’t really need brackets around what part you would repeat since it’s all the same lol but the part in brackets x5 is what you can repeat as many times as you want to make a bigger item. I am working on a throw where instead of x5 I’m doing x10.
You change colors every row. I’m not sure what you’re referring to by “change to contrasting color in( )”
Perhaps you are seeing where I repeat that contrasting color is CC and Main Color is MC. I put (CC) to remind people of the key.
Let me know if that clears it up 🙂