Bowties ARE cool! One of my favorite doctors said this – although, who can really choose a favorite? Take note, this is a hand drawn image – so it is not a mirror image on each side. It is a small square and won’t take you too long to make.
The chart can be used for both interlocking and mosaic crochet (and probably other crafts too). The written instructions for both are below, click on the word in the previous sentence to be taken to that part of this blog entry.
You can download the chart and interlocking pattern on ravelry. The mosaic version is only available here.
The Locked Filet Mesh (LFM) interlocking crochet method uses only chain spaces and double crochets to create a mesh; two colors are worked alternately which creates the pattern.
Mosaic crochet is single crochet and double crochet stitches. The double crochet stitches cover some of the other color’s single crochet stitches to create the design. My patterns instruct you to cut your yarn at the end of each row.
See my other posts for tutorials on both techniques.
Interlocking Crochet Pattern (Locked Filet Mesh / LFM)
Important Details
- US crochet terminology
- Chart is 41 x 41
- Finished square (with border) measures approximately 10”
- 4.5 mm hook (US7)
- Worsted weight yarn (131 yards total)
- Main color (MC) – 60 yards plus 11 for optional border (red on chart)
- Accent color (AC) – 60 yards (grey on chart)
- Gauge: 4 DC x 2 rows = 1”
Key
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Front = the side currently facing you
Back = the side not facing you
Ch = chain
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
F = DC in front, then CH 1
B = DC behind, then CH 1
ES = DC into the last window space
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you
Notes:
- If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
- Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
- Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC
Foundation Rows (21 MC stitches / 20 AC stitches)
- Using MC create 20 windows. I prefer the chainless technique using triple/treble crochet but alternatively you can Ch 41 + 3 (or 4 if you chain tighter than me), then DC in 6th (or 7th) Ch from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
- With your AC, Ch 41 +1 (or 2 if you chain tighter). Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) and pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture by the Key). DC through the back of the next window into the 6th (or 7th) Ch from your hook.
- *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.
WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)
4 MC – Ch3, 2B, 4F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 4F, 2B, ES
5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 2F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, EB
RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)
6 MC – Ch3, 2F, 3B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 3B, 2F, ES
7 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 3B, 1F, EF
WS – ACB
8 MC – Ch3, 2B, 6F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 6F, 2B, ES
9 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, 3B, 3F, 4B, 3F, 3B, 1F, EB
RS – ACF
10 MC – Ch3, 2F, 6B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 6B, 2F, ES
11 AC – Ch3in front, 1F, 1B, 3F, 2B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 2B, 3F, 1B, 1F, EF
WS – ACB
12 MC – Ch3, 2B, 3F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 3F, 2B, ES
13 AC – Ch3in back, 1F, 2B, 2F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 2F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, EB
RS – ACF
14 MC – Ch3, 2F, 4B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 4B, 2F, ES
15 AC – Ch3in front, 1F, 5B, 6F, 5B, 1F, EF
WS – ACB
16 MC – Ch3, 1B, 17F, 1B, ES
17 AC – Ch3in back, 18B, EB
RS – ACF
18 MC – Ch3, 1F, 17B, 1F, ES
19 AC – Ch3in front, 4F, 10B, 4F, EF
WS – ACB
20 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, 1B, 7F, 3B, 3F, 1B, ES
21 AC – Ch3in back, 4B, 2F, 6B, 2F, 4B, EB
RS – ACF
22 MC – Ch3, 1F, 3B, 3F, 7B, 1F, 3B, 1F, ES
23 AC – Ch3in front, 4F, 2B, 6F, 2B, 4F, EF
WS – ACB
24 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, 1B, 7F, 3B, 3F, 1B, ES
25 AC – Ch3in back, 4B, 2F, 6B, 2F, 4B, EB
RS – ACF
26 MC – Ch3, 1F, 3B, 3F, 7B, 1F, 3B, 1F, ES
27 AC – Ch3in front, 4F, 2B, 6F, 2B, 4F, EF
WS – ACB
28 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, 1B, 7F, 3B, 3F, 1B, ES
29 AC – Ch3in back, 4B, 3F, 5B, 2F, 4B, EB
RS – ACF
30 MC – Ch3, 1F, 3B, 3F, 7B, 1F, 3B, 1F, ES
31 AC – Ch3in front, 4F, 3B, 4F, 3B, 4F, EF
WS – ACB
32 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, 1B, 6F, 4B, 3F, 1B, ES
33 AC – Ch3in back, 4B, 3F, 4B, 3F, 4B, EB
RS – ACF
34 MC – Ch3, 1F, 4B, 3F, 5B, 1F, 4B, 1F, ES
35 AC – Ch3in front, 5F, 3B, 2F, 3B, 5F, EF
WS – ACB
36 MC – Ch3, 1B, 5F, 1B, 3F, 3B, 5F, 1B, ES
37 AC – Ch3in back, 6B, 6F, 6B, EB
RS – ACF*
38 MC – Ch3, 1F, 8B, 1F, 8B, 1F, ES
39 AC – Ch3in back, 18B, EB
WS
40 MC – Ch3, 19F, ES
Cut and tie off, OR continue with border.
SC Border
Ch1, put 2 SC in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra ch2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).
FINISHED!
Take a picture and share it! @Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet
More from Ashlee:
Mosaic Crochet
Important Details
- US crochet terminology
- Chart is 41 x 41 = 1,681 stitches
- Finished size approximately 10” x 10”
- 4.5 mm hook (US7)
- Worsted weight yarn (140 yards)
- Main color – 70 yards
- Contrasting color – 70 yards
- Gauge: 16 stitches x 16 rows = 4”
Key
MC = Main Color: red in chart
CC = Contrasting Color: grey in chart
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
sc = SC into Back Loop only
DC = double crochet
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly
Notes:
- Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
- The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
- You are always working from the right to the left
- You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
- Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
- Yarn colors can be anything you like
- They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
- They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
- My charts use black as the Main Color and white as the Coordinating Color
- I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
- Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC
Foundation Row: use Main Color (MC) (red on the chart)
Use a chainless SC technique to create 81 +2 SC. Or, chain 81 +3, SC in 2nd from hook and all the way back across. Cut and tie off.
Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}
1 – JS, sc41, ES
2 – JS, dc1, sc39, dc1, ES
3 – JS, sc41, ES
4 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES
5 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, ES
6 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES
7 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5) x3, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES
8 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES
9 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, ES
10 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES
11 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES
12 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES
13 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, {dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5) x2} x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, ES
14 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES
15 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES
16 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc35, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
17 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x20, ES
18 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc35, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
19 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc21, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES
20 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
21 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5} x2, ES
22 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
23 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5} x2, ES
24 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
25 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5} x2, ES
26 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
27 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5} x2, ES
28 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
29 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES
30 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
31 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES
32 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
33 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES
34 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
35 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x6, ES
36 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
37 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x7, ES
38 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES
39 – JS, sc41, ES
40 – JS, dc1, sc39, dc1, ES
Tie your ends together.
Trim the fringe.
Add a border if you want.