This little square did not require a lot of talent to draw lol but I think it is a nice addition to the Dr Who set.

The chart can be used for both interlocking and mosaic crochet (and probably other crafts too). The written instructions for both are below, click on the word in the previous sentence to be taken to that part of this blog entry.

The Locked Filet Mesh (LFM) interlocking crochet method uses only chain spaces and double crochets to create a mesh; two colors are worked alternately which creates the pattern.

Mosaic crochet is single crochet and double crochet stitches. The double crochet stitches cover some of the other color’s single crochet stitches to create the design. My patterns instruct you to cut your yarn at the end of each row.

See my other posts for tutorials on both techniques.

Interlocking Crochet Pattern (Locked Filet Mesh / LFM)

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 41 x 41 = 1,681 stitches
  • Finished size approximately 10” x 10”
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (130 yards total)
    • Main color (MC) – 60 yards plus 10 for optional border
    • Accent color (AC) – 60 yards
  • Gauge: 4 DC x 2 rows = 1”

Key

AC = Accent Color. Second color used.
MC = Main Color. First color used.
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Front = the side currently facing you
Back = the side not facing you
Ch = chain
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
F = DC in front, then CH 1
B = DC behind, then CH 1
ES = DC into the last window space
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

Notes:

  • If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
  • Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
  • Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

Foundation Rows (21 MC stitches / 20 AC stitches)

  1. Using MC create 20 windows. I prefer the chainless technique using triple/treble crochet but alternatively you can Ch 41 + 3 (or 4 if you chain tighter than me), then DC in 6th (or 7th) Ch from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
  2. With your AC, Ch 41 +1 (or 2 if you chain tighter). Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) and pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture by the Key). DC through the back of the next window into the 6th (or 7th) Ch from your hook.
  3. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)

4 MC – Ch3, 1B, 13F, 5B, ES

5 AC – Ch3 in back, 3F, 15B, EB

RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)

6 MC – Ch3, 5F, 2B, 2F, 9B, 1F, ES

7 AC – Ch3 in front, 18F, EF

WS – ACB

8 MC – Ch3, 1B, 2F, 4B, 3F, 2B, 6F, 1B, ES

9 AC – Ch3 in back, 2B, 5F, 11B, EB

RS – ACF

10 MC – Ch3, 1F, 6B, 2F, 3B, 4F, 2B, 1F, ES

11 AC – Ch3 in front, 18F, EF

WS – ACB

12 MC – Ch3, 1B, 7F, 2B, 8F, 1B, ES

13 AC – Ch3 in back, 18B, EB

RS – ACF

14 MC – Ch3, 1F, 2B, 4F, 2B, 2F, 4B, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

15 AC – Ch3 in front, 1B, 1F, 5B, 11F, EF

WS – ACB

16 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, 4F, 2B, 2F, 4B, 2F, 1B, ES

17 AC – Ch3 in back, 17B, 1F, EB

RS – ACF

18 MC – Ch3, 1F, 11B, 1F, 5B, 1F, ES

19 AC – Ch3 in front, 1B, 10F, 2B, 5F, EF

WS – ACB

20 MC – Ch3, 1B, 5F, 1B, 8F, 1B, 2F, 1B, ES

21 AC – Ch3 in back, 5B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 2B, EB

RS – ACF

22 MC – Ch3, 1F, 2B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 3B, 3F, ES

23 AC – Ch3 in front, 2F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 2F, 2B, 5F, EF

WS – ACB

24 MC – Ch3, 3B, 3F, 1B, 8F, 1B, 2F, 1B, ES

25 AC – Ch3 in back, 5B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 2B, EB

RS – ACF

26 MC – Ch3, 1F, 2B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 3B, 3F, ES

27 AC – Ch3 in front, 2F, 2B, 14F, EF

WS – ACB

28 MC – Ch3, 1B, 14F, 1B, 2F, 1B, ES

29 AC – Ch3 in back, 18B, EB

RS – ACF

30 MC – Ch3, 1F, 5B, 1F, 11B, 1F, ES

31 AC – Ch3 in front, 5F, 2B, 11F, EF

WS – ACB

32 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, 4B, 4F, 1B, 3F, 3B, ES

33 AC – Ch3 in back, 3B, 5F, 3B, 2F, 5B, EB

RS – ACF

34 MC – Ch3, 3F, 3B, 1F, 4B, 4F, 3B, 1F, ES

35 AC – Ch3 in front, 5F, 2B, 9F, 2B, EF

WS – ACB

36 MC – Ch3, 1B, 11F, 1B, 3F, 3B, ES

37 AC – Ch3 in back, 2F, 9B, 2F, 5B, EB

RS – ACB*

38 MC – Ch3, 1F, 5B, 1F, 3B, 2F, 6B, 1F, ES

39 AC – Ch3 in back, 18B, EB

Cut and tie off AC

WS

40 MC – Ch3, 19F, ES

Cut and tie off, OR continue with border.

SC Border

Ch1, put 2 SC in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra ch2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

FINISHED!

Take a picture and share it! @Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet


Mosaic Crochet

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 41 x 41 = 1,681 stitches
  • Finished size approximately 10” x 10”
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (140 yards)
    • Main color – 70 yards
    • Contrasting color – 70 yards
  • Gauge: 16 stitches x 16 rows = 4”

Key

MC = Main Color: black in chart
CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
sc = SC into Back Loop only
DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch / Standing SC: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Notes:

  • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
    • My charts use black as the Main Color and white as the Coordinating Color
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Foundation Row: use Main Color (MC) (black on the chart)

Use a chainless SC technique to create 41 +2 SC. Or, chain 81 +3, SC in 2nd from hook and all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

1 – JS, sc41, ES

2 – JS, dc1, sc39, dc1, ES

3 – JS, sc41, ES

4 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc27, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

5 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x15, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, ES

6 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

7 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x20, ES

8 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

9 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x11, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x3, ES

10 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

11 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x20, ES

12 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

13 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x20, ES

14 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

15 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x12, ES

16 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

17 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x18, ES

18 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc23, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

19 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x6, ES

20 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

21 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x6, ES

22 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, ES

23 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x6, ES

24 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, ES

25 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x6, ES

26 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, ES

27 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x15, ES

28 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc29, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

29 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x20, ES

30 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc23, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

31 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x12, ES

32 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

33 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

34 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

35 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, ES

36 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc23, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

37 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, ES

38 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

39 – JS, sc41, ES

40 – JS, dc1, sc39, dc1, ES

Tie your ends together.

Trim the fringe.

Add a border if you want.