This is my 5th Crochet-A-Long (CAL) since I started designing about a year ago. My first CAL was some large flower squares for Mother’s Day 2020. Then I did a Father’s Day CAL of scarves that joined together to create a blanket. My third CAL was the Abstract Queen; it was the first one to be available with written instructions for both interlocking and overlay mosaic crochet (before that, the other CALs were just interlocking crochet, but they have been updated since then to include both techniques). A few months ago we did the MusicCAL (which had an easier and smaller repeat section compared to the Abstract Queen CAL). I also contributed to the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL, but since I didn’t host that one I don’t consider it one of “MY” Crochet-A-Longs.
You can find the links for all my Crochet-A-Longs (CALs) in one place here: https://ashleeslint.com/cals/
My newest CAL, the Summer Direction CAL, like all of my patterns now, is written up for two different techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. This CAL has video walk-thrus for both techniques! That’s the big new thing about this pattern.
This is the landing page for the INTERLOCKING CROCHET method of my Summer Direction CAL. It is also available on the overlay mosaic landing page. I did pre-release the yardage charts, but you can also view them here on this post.
If you’re new to interlocking crochet, you may want to check out my tutorials first! I call this technique Locked Filet Mesh as well – they mean the same thing. You’ll find other designers call it all sorts of things (Interdimensional Crochet, Wacky Weave Crochet, etc).
I created a video walk-thru for each section in this Summer Direction CAL! It was a bigger job than I expected and it put me behind schedule so I almost didn’t get this ready before the end of summer! And, you may find that as you learn the technique you prefer to just read the written instructions and don’t even need my videos – that’s ok!
The written instructions can be found FREE here online (one section released at a time) or you can purchase a nice PDF of the entire pattern (including a plain chart for interlocking and a chart marked with X’s for mosaic as well as links to each YouTube walk-thru for every section) on Etsy or Ravelry.
Get 50% off when you use code, “SUMMER2021” (offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, September 30, 2021, valid on Etsy and Ravelry for the pattern “Summer Direction CAL” only).
Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel to get notified when the videos are live! You can also subscribe to my mailing list and / or subscribe directly to the blog (there should be a spot to enter your email in the side bar).
Summer Direction CAL – Interlocking Crochet
Section 1 – Foundation Rows
The first section is very short. It is aptly called, “Foundation Rows” and we will decide how wide our project is going to be and how much yarn we will need. The YouTube video does not include information on yardage so please see the written portion for that!
Section 2 – Chevron A (WS)
It is important when doing a project in interlocking crochet that you pay attention to the wrong side and right side. This section continues from where we left off, and thus we are first looking at the wrong side (WS).
Section 3 – Chevron A (RS)
Like mentioned earlier, it is important when doing a project in interlocking crochet that you pay attention to the wrong side and right side. This section begins when looking at the right side (RS).
Section 4 – Dark Arrows
This section begins when looking at the Wrong Side (WS) but since my design does not use it again I HAVE NOT created a duplicate section beginning with the Right Side (RS). There is a section later on that looks almost the same – however it is actually a reversed or mirrored image.
Section 5 – Chevron A (WS)
If you’ve been following the pattern as written, we are now at row 49. However, this section is identical to rows 5-14. Both the video and the written pattern will begin with row 5 and go through row 14. You may wish to use a stitch marker to mark row 49 so that you remember it counts as the beginning of this section.
Section 6 – Chevron B (RS)
This chevron differs from Chevron “A” because it goes up and then down instead of down and then up. This section begins with us looking at the Right Side (RS).
Section 7 – Light Arrows
These arrows are hollow, just the outline is drawn. This is our halfway point!
Section 8 – Chevron A (RS)
This section is identical to an earlier section so the written portion and the YouTube video shows rows 15-24 while we are actually crocheting rows 95-104.
Section 9 – Chevron B (WS)
This is the first time we have crocheted the “B” chevron starting with the Wrong Side (WS) facing us so there is a NEW YouTube video for you to watch!
Section 10 – Dark Arrows Reversed
These look very similar to those dark arrows at the beginning of our project but their direction is actually reversed. Or perhaps a mirror-image is a better way to think of it. Either way, there’s a NEW YouTube video to accompany this section.
Section 11 – Chevron B (WS)
You might be a pro at this interlocking crochet stuff by now! If you still need to reference the video please rewatch the section that covers rows 105-116. The written portion also says rows 105-116 but if you’ve been diligently following the pattern your project will be at row 141-150.
Section 12 – Chevron B (RS)
We’ve done this chevron before, so you know what to do: follow the YouTube video for rows 59-70 or follow with the written pattern (remember, we are at rows 151-160 even though the section you are following will say rows 59-70).
Section 13 – Top Border Lines
This is barely a “section”. We are just finishing off the pattern.
This space will be updated with each new section release (with a link to the written section online and the YouTube tutorial for that section).
We are finished! No more updates!
Interlocking Crochet Pattern
I know you’ve been eager to get started, so let’s figure out some details!
Remember, the written instructions can be found FREE here online or you can purchase a nice PDF of the entire pattern (including the chart and working links to each YouTube tutorial) on Etsy or Ravelry. Get 50% off when you use code, “SUMMER2021” (offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, September 30, 2021).
To create a full-sized blanket, do 9 repeats for the width. You repeat the stitches between the stars as many times as you want. Each repeat will add about 4.5” in width. Each line has instructions between stars, like this: Ch3 in back, 1F, *2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F*, EB
If you are doing 2 repeats you will crochet: Ch3 in back, 1F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, EB
If you repeat 3 times: Ch3 in back, 1F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, EB
When repeating the pattern 9 times your foundation rows will have 84 MC windows or chain 172, skip the turning chain and single crochet 171 back. Foundation row step 2, using AC: chain 170, then continue as described.
Take note that when using the interlocking crochet technique your stitches do not always create an opposite image on the reverse side. Due to starting on the right side or the wrong side you have different instructions to create the same image.
Yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted, just keep in mind your finished project will use a different amount of yarn and be a different finished size. A gauge swatch can help with that.
To figure out how many stitches you begin with:
I’ve done an example for 3 and 9 repeats wide but you can choose any number of repeats!
| LFM Foundation | Scarf (single width) | (3 repeats) | Blanket (9 repeats) |
| Finished Size (41” height includes all the sections of the original designs) | 6.5” x 41” | 14” x 41” | 42” x 41” |
| MC Windows to start (repeats x 9) + 3 = windows | 9 + 3 = 12 windows | (3 x 9) + 3 = 30 windows | (9 x 9) + 3 = 84 windows |
| Or MC Chains to start (windows x 2) + 4 = MC Chains | (12 x 2) + 4 = 26 chains | (30 x 2) + 4 = 64 chains | (84 x 2) + 4 = 172 chains |
| AC Chains to start (repeats x 18) + 8 = AC Chains | 18 + 8 = 26 chains | (3 x 18) + 8 = 62 chains | (9 x 18) + 8 = 170 chains |
Yardage Estimates (worsted weight, gauge 16 DC x 8 rows of one color = 4”)
| LFM Yardage | Scarf (single width) | (3 repeats) | Blanket (9 repeats) |
| Yardage per color = base + repeats | 40 + (105) = 145 | 40 + (105 x 3) = 355 | 40 + (105 x 9) = 985 |
| Optional SC Border = base + repeats | 20 + (3) = 23 | 20 + (3 x 3) = 29 | 20 + (3 x 9) = 47 |
| Total Yards = first row x 2 (for MC and AC), plus optional border | 145 x 2 = 290 + 23 = 313 | 355 x 2 = 710 + 29 = 739 | 985 x 2 = 1970 + 47 = 2017 |
Important Details
- US Crochet Terminology
- Full blanket chart 169 x 165
- Repeat chart is 18 squares wide (plus 7 squares for border lines) x 165 tall
- Full blanket measurements approximately 42” x 41”
- 4.5 mm hook (US7)
- Worsted weight yarn (1970 – 2020 yards total for a blanket)
- Main color (MC) – 985 yards plus 50 for optional border
- Accent color (AC) – 985 yards
- Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows (of one color) = 4”
KEY
AC = accent color (usually light or multicolored)
MC = main color (usually dark)
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Back = the side not facing you
Front = the side currently facing you
ch = chain
sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice
tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times
B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1
F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC
ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
Foundation Rows (see chart above for help with counting)
- Using MC create repeats of 9 + 3 windows:
- I prefer the chainless technique (chain 6, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).
- Alternatively, you can Ch repeats of 18 + 10 (or 11 if you chain tighter than me), then DC in 6th (or 7th) chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
- With your AC, Ch repeats of 18 + 8 (or 9 if you chain tighter). Lay MC windows below this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture above). DC through the back of the next window into the 6th (or 7th) chain from your hook.
- *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.
WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)
4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *9F*, 1B, ES
Thus concludes our foundation rows! This is the tricky and sometimes frustrating part of all my projects. The foundation rows are boring, involve a lot of long counting, can get a bit twisted, and don’t look very exciting when you’re done. But this is a very important part of our project so it must be done!
Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel to get notified when the videos are live! You can also subscribe to my mailing list and / or subscribe directly to the blog (there should be a spot to enter your email in the side bar).
© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.
What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.
Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website https://ashleeslint.com
