As promised on my last YouTube video (https://youtu.be/7j6bTj76qZA) I am putting up the stitch counts for the tube/pouch we created. We started this project on May 28, 2022 on a 2-hour YouTube live (https://youtu.be/tQOeL4EbFU8).
This live video was an experiment for me! I had never done a tube before. I have a lot of experience with various projects and techniques though, so I used my skills to create it as I went. It is not a perfect project tutorial video.
For this mosaic pouch I adjusted the “Dark Arrows” chart section from my Summer Direction CAL. My Summer Direction CAL is free on my website (the written pattern for both techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet), but the charts are only included in the paid download.
For this pouch, neither the free written part nor the charts are actually entirely helpful because I adjusted the chart as I crocheted for the YouTube live. I removed the interlocking mesh dots and the border lines.
My post here will include the stitch counts for each round that we did on the video, but for proper instruction on the technique please see the YouTube videos.
I used a small amount of worsted weight yarn and a 4.5 mm hook. I meant to use a 5 mm hook but the live had already started and that hook was not at my desk. Your hook size does affect the size and drape of your finished project. One of the crocheters who watched the live and commented a lot said they were using a thinner yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. As long as your hook and yarn weight are good for each other you can truly use any yarn you’d like.
The repeatable portion of the chart is 18 stitches wide. I skipped the first 3 border lines and the last 3 border lines. I also skipped a 4th stitch at the left side of the chart because it is a balancing stitch and is a duplicate of the 4th stitch at the right of the chart. This information is helpful if you’d like to make your pouch larger by using more of the Summer Direction CAL.
I planned on doing two repeats of the chart (one for the front of the bag and one for the back) but I decided that was too small so I stuck a third repeat in there.
We are creating a tube and we join at the end of each round and simply carry the yarn up, there’s no need to cut your yarn. For the first video I was using a joining method that involved locking my yarn in (just like I do when I do a center-out piece), but I found it was a bit bulky so I changed the joining method in the second video. When I do center-out crochet you can’t tell where the join was, so I was quite surprised to see that with the tube the join was noticeable.
I created a project on Ravelry and linked it to my Summer Direction Pattern. I wonder if I should be creating a new pattern listing instead?
Follow the Pattern
CC = Contrasting Color (red in the video)
dc = double crochet; for overlay mosaic crochet all the double crochets go in the front loop, two rows below
fsc = foundation single crochet; see video
MC = Main Color (black/grey variegated in the video)
sc = single crochet; for overlay mosaic crochet all the single crochets go in the back loop only
At the end of each round we must pick up the other yarn. Watch how I do it in the 2nd video (I think it looks better than the method I used in the first video). Basically, when you get to the end of the round, insert your hook into the back loop and pick up the other color, pull through both loops on your hook (do a slip stitch). Chain 1 and our next sc goes into the same spot. If you’re doing a dc you don’t need to chain 1.
Use a stitch marker to make sure you know where to join at the end of the next round.
Foundation row (row 0), using MC; I was looking at row 25 on the chart: repeats of 18 fsc
Row 1 / 26 on the chart, using CC: sc18
Row 2 / 27 MC: sc18
Row 3 / 28 CC: sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7
Row 4 / 29 MC: sc9, dc1, sc8
Row 5 / 30 CC: sc8, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5
Row 6 / 31 MC: sc9, dc3, sc6
Row 7 / 32 CC: dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3
Row 8 / 33 MC: sc1, dc13, sc4
Row 9 / 34 CC: dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1
Row 10 / 35 MC: sc1, dc13, sc3, dc1
Row 11 / 36 CC: dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3
Row 12 / 37 MC: sc9, dc3, sc3, dc3
Row 13 / 38 CC: sc8, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5
Row 14 / 39 MC: dc8, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc5
Part 2 video starts here
Row 15 / 40 CC: sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7
Row 16 / 41 MC: dc8, sc5, dc6
Row 17 / 42 CC: sc8, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5
Row 18 / 43 MC: sc15, dc3
Row 19 / 44 CC: dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3
Row 20 / 45 MC: sc17, dc1
Row 21 / 46 CC: dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1
Row 22 / 47 MC: sc18
Repeat from row 1 if you’d like to make your pouch taller. Or use another pattern that has an 18 stitch count.
You now have a tube!
To create a purse / pouch you’ll need to sew the bottom of the tube together. I kept my joining seam at one side to hide it better and then did a mattress stitch join but you can do any kind of join you like. To do a mattress stitch join you flatten your tube, pick up one loop from the top and then one loop from the bottom and then pull the loop through. Then you pick up one loop from the top and pull it through. Then pull one loop from the bottom through. And repeat until you get to the end. This technique does take away some of the stretch but doesn’t use any extra yarn (until you want to fasten it off). To fasten it off you’ll need a tiny amount of yarn to make a knot through the last live loop on your hook AND make sure you tie it through another stitch as well.
I am adding a strap to my bag. I am using the Tunisian Simple Stitch. Watch that part of the video here: https://youtu.be/7j6bTj76qZA?t=4820
I hope you enjoyed this live project! It is full of mistakes and candid Ashlee. I did notice that the quality is less that stellar so I may go back to an edited video for my next crochet pattern on YouTube. Let me know what you prefer.
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