Harmony Mandala – Interlocking and Mosaic Crochet Patterns from the Bottom-Up or Center-Out

I am extremely pleased to present my newest blanket pattern: Harmony Mandala. This beautiful piece is so balanced. And, simply-put, it is pleasing to look at! It is one of my favorites and I am hopeful you will agree!

Overlay mosaic crochet from the bottom-up using peach as the Main Color. Sample crocheted by Linda Bakker.

My husband gave me the googly eyes when I showed him my draft a few months ago. “You drew that!?” was almost the wrong thing to say, but he made up for it by quickly following with, “I REALLY like this one!”

Overlay mosaic crochet from the center-out using cream as the Main Color. Sample crocheted by AriCrochetCorner.

Just like Garden Mandala, you can crochet this blanket from the bottom-up or from the center-out. And you can choose from interlocking crochet or overlay mosaic crochet. As always, I give you charts and the full written pattern for whichever technique you prefer (but you don’t need to worry about purchasing the wrong listing, because they are all listed together).

Overlay mosaic crochet from the bottom-up. Crocheted by Sandi Willoughby.

The patterns include links to my tutorials but, in case you’d like to start with a tutorial before deciding whether to purchase this pattern, here’s the short list (I have more tutorials on my YouTube channel).


Overlay mosaic crochet from the center-out. Crocheted by Nyasha Jones.

I am so thankful to my testing team: AriCrochetCorner, Deb Albers, Linda Bakker, Nyasha Jones, Sandi Willoughby, and Sheryl Dunbar. As always, they make me look good! And I am honored to have so many people willing to support me with such a big undertaking!

Interlocking crochet from the bottom-up using Rainbow as the Main Color. Crocheted by Deb Albers.

Overlay mosaic crochet from the center-out, peach used as Main Color. Sample crocheted by AriCrochetCorner.

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Interlocking crochet from the center-out using brown as the Main Color. Sample crocheted by Sheryl Dunbar.

Important Details

For Interlocking Crochet

  • Chart is 245 x 245
  • Gauge: 8 (dc, ch) x 8 rows = 4”
  • 61” / 156cm square
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (4400 – 4800 yards total)
    • Main color (MC) (black on chart) – 2200 yards plus 400 for optional border
    • Accent color (AC) – 2200 yards

For Interlocking Crochet from the Center-Out

  • Chart is 245 x 245
  • Gauge: 8 (dc, ch) x 8 rows = 4”
  • 61” / 156cm square
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (4400 yards total)
    • Main color (MC) (black on chart) – 2200 yards
    • Accent color (AC) – 2200 yards

For Overlay Mosaic Crochet

  • Chart is 241 x 241
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
  • 64” x 69” / 163cm x 175cm
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (5000 – 5800 yards)
    • Main color (black) – 2600 yards
    • Contrasting color – 2400 yards
    • Plus, optional envelope border – 800 yards

For Overlay Mosaic Crochet from the Center-Out

  • Chart is 241 x 241
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 14 rows = 4”
  • 60” / 153cm
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (5000 yards)
    • Main color (black) – 2600 yards
    • Contrasting color – 2400 yards

Garden Mandala: a floral blanket that can be made 4 ways

I am pleased to present my newest pattern: Garden Mandala! I have written this pattern up to be made using the overlay mosaic crochet technique from the center-out or bottom-up, and also the interlocking crochet technique from the center-out or bottom-up.

It is a bit floral, with a few dainty notes, but mostly it is bold and uncomplicated. Most of the lines are thick with gentle curves.

The “wow” in my photo mostly comes from the amazing color gradient in my yarn. It definitely doesn’t come from my garden unless you are stunned by the amount of weeds in there. (That is mostly round leaf mallow – technically edible, but considered an invasive weed around here; I was too busy with crochet to worry about all the weeds).

I really wanted an excuse to use one of the big cakes of yarn from Scheepjes. Typically, I use cheap acrylic yarn because it is inexpensive and readily available.

Most of my yarn stash has been given to me over the years as friends of my grandmother or mother-in-law have destashed. I have a lot of tightly hand-rolled balls of old acrylic yarn with no labels. Every now and then there would be full skeins with labels included in the bags.

Now that I consider myself a proper designer I decided it was time to try some new-to-me yarns.

I used Scheepjes Whirl and Whirlette for my Garden Mandala. It is a fingering weight yarn (1 – super fine, on the Craft Council’s chart).

You can find more details on my project page on Ravelry if you’re interested: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/ashleeslint/center-out-mosaic-garden-mandala

I had planned on using a worsted weight yarn ( 4 – medium) for this project when I was drawing it. It was supposed to cover a queen size bed. Nancy Foster used worsted weight and her blanket just about covers her king size bed (but no drape down the sides) as shown in the photo below.

Her measurements came to 65″ square, as expected.

Garden Mandala by Ashlee Brotzell, overlay mosaic crochet from the center out; crocheted by Nancy Foster using worsted weight yarn, shown on a king size bed.

Using the thinner yarn has (as expected) resulted in a much smaller blanket. My very tall 8 year old daughter is showing the size in the photo below. You can also see a very sad tomato plant that I had to pull away from the rest of the garden because I was scared there was something attacking it – but it turns out it was blossom end rot and was because I didn’t water it enough. And there are some weeds drying on the walkway (proof that I did pull some weeds!).

Overlay mosaic crochet from the center-out using a fingering weight yarn

I used a 3 mm hook with this fingering weight yarn instead of the 5 mm I would have used with worsted weight yarn and my final piece is 40″ / 101cm square.

The kids really like the size and the drape and the colors. While working on this one, at one point or another, each person in my house has tried to claim it as their own. It was nice to have that compliment from them but I felt bad that I had to tell each of them no.

Multiple times: “No, you can’t have it, I haven’t finished it.”

To my son, Remi, “oh, you like the blues and greens? There will be more colors later. It isn’t finished yet.”

To my husband, “you love the weight of the cotton but I don’t think this is going to be big enough to cover all 6’3″ of you.”

To my eldest daughter, Alice, “no, I can’t let you use it as a cape, I need to take some photos of it for the pattern listing..”

To my youngest daughter, Melody, “no, I can’t let this one be only yours because everyone seems to love it and they all want a turn.”

I make plenty of blankets, but this one has captured everyone’s eye! The colors, the design, the feel of the yarn – my only complaint is that it took me a really long time to finish because I kept doing small projects in between.

You can do this pattern from the bottom-up or the center-out in both interlocking crochet or overlay mosaic crochet.

In-progress. Interlocking Crochet sample from the center-out by CarolinevdB

No matter which way you do it, the results are spectacular!

And, as always, I’ve included all 4 options in one listing. I don’t want anyone to be disappointed with their purchase (by purchasing the wrong version of the pattern). Whether you use Ravelry or Etsy you will receive all four options.

Each of the four options comes with a written pattern and an appropriate chart. There are slight differences between the charts as well.

The interlocking crochet chart has mesh dots all over it, and the edges are locked together with solid lines. This is how all of my interlocking crochet charts look.

The center-out method has the mesh dots (because it is a natural byproduct of the interlocking technique) but it doesn’t have the edges locked the same way. This makes the chart a few squares smaller but doesn’t have a big impact on anything else.

The overlay mosaic version of “Garden Mandala” does not have the mesh dots, it is solid mosaic crochet. Yardage estimates for the center-out version do not include an envelope border because there are no cut ends to hide with that technique.

I did post a few teasers on Instagram showing this blanket at various points. Here are a few:

A very adorable helper.

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For Interlocking Crochet

  • Chart is 249 x 249
  • Gauge: 8 (dc, ch) x 8 rows = 4”
  • 62” / 158cm square
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (4400 – 4700 yards total)
    • Main color (MC) (black on chart) – 2200 yards plus 300 for optional border
    • Accent color (AC) – 2200 yards

For Interlocking Crochet from the Center-Out

  • Chart is 245 x 245
  • Gauge: 8 (dc, ch) x 8 rows = 4”
  • 61” / 156cm square
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (4400 yards total)
    • Main color (MC) (black on chart) – 2200 yards
    • Accent color (AC) – 2200 yards

For Overlay Mosaic Crochet

  • Chart is 245 x 245
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
  • 65” x 70” / 166cm x 178cm
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (4800 – 5500 yards)
    • Main color (black) – 3000 yards
    • Contrasting color – 2900 yards
    • Plus, optional envelope border – 700 yards

For Overlay Mosaic Crochet from the Center-Out

  • Chart is 245 x 245
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 14 rows = 4”
  • 65” / 166cm
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (5700 yards)
    • Main color (black) – 2900 yards
    • Contrasting color – 2800 yards
      or
  • Gauge: 28 sc blo stitches x 28 rows = 4”
  • 40” / 101cm
  • 3 mm hook
  • Fingering weight yarn (2750 yards)
    • Main color (Scheepjes Whirlette, Bilberry) – 1400 yards
    • Contrasting color (Scheepjes Whirl, Sherbet Rainbow) – 1350 yards

Double Wedding Rings Center-Out Update

I know you have been waiting SO LONG for this update!

I am so excited to announce that my most popular pattern ever has now received an update that makes it even more amazing!

Double Wedding Rings was published in February 2022. It broke so many of my personal records (most sales in a day, most sales in a month, most shares on Facebook, etc). And each time someone shares their progress online I get another burst of sales and love. Thank you so much for all the love!

See my original post about this pattern: https://ashleeslint.com/2022/02/25/double-wedding-rings-crochet-square-or-blanket-pattern/

Regarding the original patterns: there are two files, one for the interlocking crochet technique and one for the overlay mosaic crochet technique. All of my patterns are like this.

But this one was also created with the ability to make it any size you want! The base square is the same size as my 40-window squares / 81 x 81 chart size. Instead of crocheting many squares and then sewing them together, this pattern has been written in a way that allows you to repeat it as you go.

My mosaic sample here is 2 repeats wide and 3 repeats tall.

The center-out technique is going to be very popular with those who prefer the mosaic crochet option because you no longer have to worry about those tails! No envelope border needed.

The interlocking crocheters will be happy to create a blanket that keeps getting larger and you can just go until your yarn runs out, you don’t need to pre-plan how wide to make it.

Both options can be really stunning with a self-striping yarn.

My photo shows my center-out interlocking sample, a single square (using the interlocking technique), my original grey and white mosaic sample, and a center-out mosaic sample!

I am not entirely sure how large I will make these center-out pieces. I’ve already started adding some extra yarn that I had leftover from other projects so the colors are going to be very bright and bold for my two center-out samples!

I have video tutorials on all the techniques. But I also have a complete step-by-step walk-thru of the first dozen rows of each center-out sample.

Find all my tutorials on YouTube and don’t forget to like and subscribe and click that little bell!

Get the Pattern

If you’ve previously purchased this pattern on Ravelry you will already have access to the updated files.

If you purchased on Etsy you will need to email me with your order number and I will send you the updated files.

Dream A Dream: Center-Out Crochet Square

Have you had a chance to bump up your crochet skills yet? My tutorial on crocheting from the Center-Out has been live for 2 weeks now. I have seen a few of the Tutorial Squares and I am eager to see what everyone plans to do with a square so small. I think I will have to design more of that size!

The tutorial and this pattern (and all my other patterns) come with written line-by-line instructions and charts for two techniques. Overlay Mosaic Crochet seems to be the most popular. Interlocking Crochet is fun too (and sometimes goes by other names, such as Locked Filet Mesh / LFM)!

This pattern here (called “Dream a Dream”) is a little bit larger than the tutorial square. But it is not an overwhelming size. Plus, to make it more accessible I have created a full video walk-thru for each technique!

9 squares makes a perfect toddler-sized blanket

You don’t NEED to buy the pattern in order to follow along with the video. You can view the Key for the Interlocking Crochet method or the Overlay Mosaic Crochet method here and each row is written on the screen on the video; the charts are only available in the paid PDF. I truly do appreciate each purchase of the PDF pattern!

This square is not a size that easily mixes and matches with my other patterns, but I am sure you will still love it! There are so many things you can do with a square!

The first thing I think of is blankets. You can crochet as many squares as you like and then join them together to make a blanket.

The beauty of this technique and these squares is that you can use any weight yarn (as long as the yarns used are similar to each other in weight) and then an appropriately sized hook.

Just make sure you always have good contrast between the Main Color yarn and the second yarn you use.

If one of your yarns is self-striping you need to make sure the contrast color contrasts well with ALL the colors in the striping yarn.

Pillows (or throw cushions) go well with blankets, especially when you can have a matching set!

Then there are always so many bag options. A simple, small bag with just two squares and a strap is quick to make. Or, using multiple squares, you can create a larger bag.

I’m attempting to create a cardigan from my squares. My toddler really liked it when I had the back panel done – she used it as a blanket for a day!

Get the Pattern

Grab the ad-free printable PDF (with charts) with a 30% discount until May 10, 2022! No code needed, valid on Ravelry and Etsy.

Interlocking Crochet Details

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Details

My Copyright Statement

KEY FOR INTERLOCKING / LOCKED FILET MESH / LFM CROCHET

AC = accent color (pink on chart / even-numbered rounds)

MC = main color (green on chart / odd-numbered rounds)

Back = the wrong side of your work

Front = the right side of your work (you never turn your work, so the right side is always facing you)

AC/MC to Back indicates you need to place the AC/MCyarn towards the BACK of your project

AC/MC to Front indicates you need to bring the AC/MC yarn towards the FRONT of your project

CROCHET STITCHES USED (US terminology)

BLO = use the back loop only

ch = chain: pull a loop of yarn through the loop on your hook

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops

MR = magic ring: lay yarn across front of index and middle fingers, loose end hanging down; wrap yarn over and behind fingers then back up the front of your hand; cross yarn over yarn towards your wrist and hold working end of yarn with pinkie finger; insert hook under yarn closest to fingertips, grab the other loop of yarn and pull a loop up (with a slight clockwise twist); chain 1 to hold it together. You will crochet over the side that has 2 strings and when you are done you can tighten the loose end. See my video tutorial or my photo tutorial at ashleeslint.com/magicring

sk = skip a stitch

SS = slip stitch: insert hook, pull a loop through everything on your hook

SPECIAL TERMS USED

Ch3 in Back/Front counts as your first dc and chain

C = Corner: chain 2 (when added to previous stitch that makes 3 chains between the double crochets in each corner)

B = double crochet (dc) behind the previous row, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front of the previous row, and chain 1

Join = SS to finish the round. This stitch goes into the 2nd chain of the first ch3 of the round, or it can be made into the first window space

INTERLOCKING CROCHET TECHNIQUE

You are creating two layers of mesh that happen to be worked around each other. Each color of yarn gets stitched into itself only. Each double crochet goes into the previous row’s double crochet. There is a chain space between each double crochet that doesn’t get worked into. You alternate using each color of yarn and thus can do the double crochet in front or behind the opposite color’s chain space (never yarn over in a way that it encloses that chain space on both sides). Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, just use a stitch marker to keep the live loop waiting. Detailed tutorial on this technique in PDF and YouTube video format can be found at https://ashleeslint.com/interlocking-crochet-tutorial-center-out/.

KEY FOR OVERLAY MOSAIC CROCHET

MC = Main Color: blue in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain: pull a loop through

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

MR = magic ring: place yarn across the front of your fingers with the tail hanging down, wrap yarn over and behind your fingers, cross yarn at the top of your hand towards your wrist, insert hook under first loop on the back of your hand and grab the second loop, pull the loop up and chain to keep it in place. View my video tutorial or photo tutorial online: AshleesLint.com/magicring

SPECIAL STITCHES (TAKE NOTE OF THE LOWER CASE VERSUS UPPER CASE WAY OF USING THESE):

sc = SC into Back Loop only

dc = dropped double crochet: DC into Front Loop of stitch in the round below, skip the sc stitch that gets hidden behind this dropped stitch

scC = single crochet corner: SC into Back Loop Only of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, SC into the same Back Loop again

dcC = double crochet corner: do a dropped DC into front loop of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, do another dropped DC into same front loop again. The next stitch, if it is a dc, will use this same front loop as well.

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Mosaic Technique when working from the CENTER-OUT

Technique tutorials: https://ashleeslint.com/overlay-mosaic-crochet-tutorial-center-out/

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Foundation round counts as round 0 – it is a magic ring with 8 single crochets in it; uses the MC
  • Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, carry it up through the corner stitch
  • Even-numbered rounds use MC; odd-numbered rounds use CC