My friend called me up and said,

Ashlee, I love that purple baby blanket! Can you make me something like that but bigger?

And I was like,

“Wow! Thank you! Can I just add to the Preemie Love Blanket I already made? It would save us time.”

And she said,

“Yes! Make something beautiful, I trust you! All your designs are great!”

So, I created the Heart Levels Banner for the top and bottom.

And added these skinny squiggly panels on each side to fill it out.

If you want to do the exact same thing, you can!

This is the squiggle pattern I made up. You can do as many repeats as you want to make it whatever size you need. My blanket is all in interlocking/Locked Filet Mesh but since my “thing” is LFM and Mosaic I have written out both options here for you.

Use whatever yarn and hook you are using for the rest of your project. This is easily customizable, I have written the size that you will need if you are adding it to the Preemie Love Blanket like I did.

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Interlocking Squiggle Pattern

Interlocking Key

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Front = the side currently facing you
Back = the side not facing you
Ch = chain
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
F = DC in front, then CH 1
B = DC behind, then CH 1
ES = DC into the last window space
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

Notes

If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

Foundation Rows (8 MC stitches / 7 AC stitches)

Using MC create 7 windows. I prefer the chainless technique using triple/treble crochet but alternatively you can Ch 15 + 3 (or 4 if you chain tighter than me), then DC in 6^th (or 7^th) Ch from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
With your AC, Ch 15 +1 (or 2 if you chain tighter). Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) and pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture by the Key). DC through the back of the next window into the 6^th (or 7^th) Ch from your hook.
*Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)

4 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, EB

RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)

6 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

7 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, EF

Repeat rows 4 through 7 until your desired length (for my preemie blanket addition I did 28 repeats). Then continue with the final finishing rows:

RS – ACB*

118 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

119 AC – Ch3 in back, 5B, EB

Cut and tie off AC

WS

120 MC – Ch3, 6F, ES

Cut and tie off, OR continue with border.

SC Border

Ch1, put 2 SC in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra ch2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

FINISHED!

Take a picture and share it! @Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet

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Opposite LFM Squiggles

I did a mirror-image squiggle piece for the other side. So each row is read backwards and looks like this (foundation rows are the same):

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)

4 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, ES

5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, EB

RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)

6 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, ES

7 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, EF

Repeat rows 4 through 7 until your desired length (for my preemie blanket addition I did 28 repeats). Then continue with the final finishing rows:

RS – ACB*

118 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 1F, ES

119 AC – Ch3 in back, 5B, EB

Cut and tie off AC

WS

120 MC – Ch3, 6F, ES

Cut and tie off, OR continue with border.

SC Border

Ch1, put 2 SC in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra ch2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

FINISHED!

Take a picture and share it! @Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet

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Mosaic Squiggle Pattern

Mosaic Key

MC = Main Color: black in chart
CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
sc = SC into Back Loop only
DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch / Standing SC: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Notes

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
You are always working from the right to the left
You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
- Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
Yarn colors can be anything you like
- They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
- They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
- My charts use black as the Main Color and white as the Coordinating Color
I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Foundation Row: use Main Color (MC)

Use a chainless SC technique to create 15+2 SC. Or, chain 15+3, SC in 2^nd from hook and all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

1 – JS, sc15, ES

2 – JS, dc1, sc13, dc1, ES

3 – JS, sc15, ES

4 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

5 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc1, ES

6 – JS, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

7 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

Repeat Rows 4 through 7 until desired length (28 repeats are required for the Preemie Love addition).

Then finish with these rows:

116 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

117 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc1, ES

118 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

119 – JS, sc15, ES

120 – JS, dc1, sc13, dc1, ES

Tie your ends together.

Trim the fringe.

Add a border if you want.

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Mirror-image squiggle

You can do this pattern in mirror-image for the other side if you like, just read each row backwards, it would look like this (I’ve taken the repeats out as well):

1 – JS, sc15, ES

2 – JS, dc1, sc13, dc1, ES

3 – JS, sc15, ES

4 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

5 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, ES

6 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

7 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, ES

Repeat Rows 4 through 7 until desired length (28 repeats are required for the Preemie Love addition).

Then finish with these rows:

116 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

117 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, ES

118 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2, dc2, sc1, dc1, ES