2022 Mosaic Christmas CAL, Part 5: Sleigh

This pattern has been designed specifically for the 2022 Mosaic Christmas CAL (Crochet-A-Long) hosted by Mosaic Crochet MALs, CALs & more group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/mosaiccrochet

Each pattern in this CAL is free and includes a written pattern, a chart, and a YouTube walk-thru. Use the hashtag #MosaicChristmasCAL

Part 5, by Ashlee Brotzell Designs: Sleigh

You can view the full pattern here on my website (chart is viewable as a jpg here), or grab a nice FREE PDF of the written pattern and chart on Ravelry. I’ve made a full walk-thru available on YouTube as well.

The list of designers and schedule of release:

October 29. Part 1 and Separation section. Designer BebaBlanket https://www.ravelry.com/stores/bebablanket-designs

November 2. Part 2. Designer Carol Scott https://www.ravelry.com/designers/carol-a-scott

November 5. Part 3. Designer Svetlana Rogathyk https://www.ravelry.com/designers/svetlana-rogatykh

November 9. Part 4. Designer Iti Hamberg Brons https://www.ravelry.com/designers/iti-hamberg-brons

November 12. Part 5. Designer Ashlee Brotzell https://www.ravelry.com/designers/ashlee-brotzell

November 16. Part 6. Designer Robyn B Kaleta https://www.ravelry.com/designers/robyn-b-kaleta

November 19. Part 7. Designer Maud Akkermans https://www.ravelry.com/designers/maud-akkermans

November 23. Part 8. Designer Carol Scott https://www.ravelry.com/designers/carol-a-scott

November 26. Part 9. Designer Svetlana Rogathyk https://www.ravelry.com/designers/svetlana-rogatykh

November 30. Part 10. Designer BebaBlanket https://www.ravelry.com/stores/bebablanket-designs

December 3. Part 11/ Border. Designer Maud Akkermans https://www.ravelry.com/designers/maud-akkermans

The Sleigh

Most of my patterns come with written instructions and charts for two techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. This pattern was designed specifically for this group Crochet-A-Long and it is MOSAIC ONLY.

Follow along with a full YouTube walk-thru of this pattern:

Your yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted; just make sure your hook is an appropriate size for your yarn.

If you share your works on Instagram, tag me: @ashleebrotzell

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 48 x 30
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (100 yards per repeat)
    • Color A (the sleigh) – 50 yards
    • Color B (the background) – 50 yards

Key (US terminology)

Color A: the design color, the sleigh; blue in chart

Color B: the background color; white in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

A Single Crochet in the body of the pattern goes in Back Loop Only

FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, *yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously and repeat from *

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

The dropped double crochet uses the front loop, 2 rows below. Skip the single crochet behind this stitch.

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

Please see the YouTube video for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending, as well as a balancing stitch. You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • I prefer using a foundation SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use Color B; odd-numbered rows use Color A

This pattern is designed in conjunction with other 2022 Christmas CAL sections,

so it is very likely that you will be joining to another project.

If this is a new project, you will need to crochet the foundation row (row 0). This row is shown on the chart in grey (but you would use the same color as the rows shown in white).

If you are joining to a previous section in this CAL, you will skip row 0 and start at row 1.

Optional Foundation Row (Row 0): use Color B (shown as grey on the chart)

Use a foundation SC technique to create repeats of 48 + 3 SC. Or chain repeats of 48 + 4, SC in 2nd from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

For 2 repeats wide you’ll need 99 fsc (or chain 100, turn and do 99 sc back).

For 3 repeats you’ll need 147 fsc. For 4 repeats you’ll need 195 fsc. For 5 repeats you’ll need 243 fsc. And so on.

Switch to Color A and continue to row 1.

If you’re adding onto a previously worked project, start at row 1.

{Even-numbered rows use Color B; odd-numbered rows use Color A}

Color A = the sleigh, Color B = the background

JS, ES, and balancing stitch after the asterisk (*) is not shown on the chart.

Repeat between the asterisks.

1 – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

2 – JS, *dc48*, dc1, ES

3 – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

4 – JS, *dc5, sc40, dc3*, dc1, ES

5 – JS, *sc5, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc22, dc1, sc10*, sc1, ES

6 – JS, *dc4, sc2, dc8, sc1, dc22, sc1, dc10*, dc1, ES

7 – JS, *sc4, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc22, dc1, sc10*, sc1, ES

8 – JS, *dc4, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc34, dc5*, dc1, ES

9 – JS, *sc4, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2, dc1, sc1, dc8, sc1, dc7, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc6, sc1, dc1, sc6*, sc1, ES

10 – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc14, dc6*, dc1, ES

11 – JS, *sc8, dc7, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc5, dc2, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc5, sc6*, sc1, ES

12 – JS, *dc7, sc20, dc1, sc4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc6*, dc1, ES

13 – JS, *sc7, dc3, sc1, dc2, (sc1, dc4) x2, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc6*, sc1, ES

14 – JS, *dc6, sc4, dc1, sc23, dc1, sc7, dc6*, dc1, ES

15 – JS, *sc6, dc2, sc5, dc3, sc2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc2, sc5, dc5, sc6*, sc1, ES

16 – JS, *dc6, sc4, dc1, sc5, dc2, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc7, dc6*, dc1, ES

17 – JS, *sc6, dc4, sc1, dc4, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc2, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc6*, sc1, ES

18 – JS, *dc6, sc9, dc3, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc2, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc6*, dc1, ES

19 – JS, *sc7, dc6, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc4, sc1, dc3, (sc1, dc2) x2, sc6*, sc1, ES

20 – JS, *dc3, sc3, dc1, sc6, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc7, dc3, sc14, dc6*, dc1, ES

21 – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc12, sc6*, sc1, ES

22 – JS, *dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc4, dc2, sc7, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc12, dc6*, dc1, ES

23 – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc4, dc3, sc4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc2, (dc3, sc1) x2, dc3, sc6*, sc1, ES

24 – JS, *dc3, sc3, dc1, sc4, dc4, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc8, sc1, dc2, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc6*, dc1, ES

25 – JS, *sc4, dc2, sc1, dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc3, dc4, sc5, dc1, sc6*, sc1, ES

26 – JS, *dc4, sc6, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc10, dc3, sc6, dc1, sc3, dc6*, dc1, ES

27 – JS, *sc5, dc4, sc6, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc11, dc5, sc1, dc2, sc7*, sc1, ES

28 – JS, *dc5, sc4, dc6, sc7, dc11, sc8, dc7*, dc1, ES

29 – JS, *sc34, dc2, sc1, dc3, sc8*, sc1, ES

30 – JS, *dc34, sc6, dc8*, dc1, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

Continue with the next section in this CAL.

#MosaicChristmasCAL


X-Marked Chart Instructions

How to Use the Chart

  • Start at the bottom right corner & read each row from right to left (opposite if you’re left-handed)
  • Join new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut your yarn at the end of every row
  • Each square represents one stitch, the chart is 48 stitches wide and should be repeated to get your desired width
    • NOT shown on the chart: Joining Stitch (JS), balancing stitch, and End Stitch (ES). The balancing stitch should be done before doing your ES, just repeat column 1.
  • All even-numbered rows – starting with the foundation row 0 – use Color B (background color)
    • This is white on the chart
    • The first row (row 0) is grey because it is optional; if you are joining this to something already made you skip row 0 and begin at row 1
    • The first row (row 0) can be made using foundation single crochet or by chaining one more than required (for turning space) and single crochet back
  • Odd-numbered rows use Color A (the design)
    • This is blue on the chart
  • Regardless of the square’s color, you work a single crochet in the Back Loop Only unless you see an “X”; an “X” tells you to create a dropped double crochet

Every pattern in this CAL is FREE! You can view “Sleigh” here on my website or you can download the full PDF on Ravelry.

There is no Etsy option because Etsy doesn’t do free listings.

You can also watch the full walk-thru tutorial on YouTube.

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 48 x 30
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (100 yards per repeat)
    • Color A (the sleigh) – 50 yards
    • Color B (the background) – 50 yards

    ©️ 2022 Ashlee Brotzell.

    All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

    What does this mean?
    This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

    Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

    FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; Part 3

    You’re nearly done! Just a few more hours of crocheting left. This week we will add the cowl neck to the hood. Technically, you could crochet this false-ribbed cowl section without the hood. It’s quite basic.

    If you’re just hearing about this project, you’ll want to return to the Introduction page, or maybe Part 1. The schedule and links to each section are just below.


    Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

    I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl“. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

    Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!


    Interlocking Crochet Pattern

    To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

    For yardage and other important details, click here.

    In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. Part 2 was rows 30 – 58. Now that we have a hood we will create the cowl neck.

    The Cowl

    I chose to use my dark color for the cowl neck, but you can use the lighter color or a completely different color!

    First, turn your hat upside down. We will join our yarn at any point around the neck of the hood EXCEPT where the sides meet at your chin.

    Attaching to Hood

    Create one round of double crochet stitches, join with a slip stitch.

    You need to have an even number of DC stitches in this first round. If you need to adjust, make the cowl one stitch smaller than the hood.

    Lengthening the Cowl

    For the rest of the rounds, do *2 FPDC, 2 BPDC* all the way around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Front post stitches will have front post stitches attached to them. You are creating long ridges.

    I did 14 rounds, but you can make the cowl any length.

    Weave in any ends and you’re done! 

    I prefer to wear mine with the cowl part up inside the hood, covering my chin and mouth, but you can also keep it down around your neck if that’s where you need the warmth.

    #interlockingcrochet #WinterTreesHoodedCowl @AshleesLint

    Congratulations! You’re done! Be sure to show off your project in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs, or tag me on Instagram!

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


    Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

    The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

    To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

    View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

    In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. In part 2 we finished the hood with rows 30 – 52. Now we will add the cowl neck.

    The Cowl

    I chose to use my dark color for the cowl, but you can use the lighter color or a completely different color!

    First, turn your hat upside down. We will join our yarn at any point around the neck of the hood EXCEPT where the envelope border meets at your chin.

    I have created a video for this step:

    Attaching to Hood

    Create one round of double crochet stitches, join with a slip stitch. You may find it difficult to determine which stitches to join to when you reach the envelope border brim that goes around your face.  If you did single crochet stitches for the envelope you will do one DC per round. If you did a double crochet envelope border, do two DCs per round.

    I had 7 rounds of SC on my envelope border, so I did 7 DC across the envelope for the beginning of my cowl. I joined the two sides of the envelope border with one DC and then did 7 more DC on the envelope border at the other side of the face opening.

    You need to have an even number of DC stitches in this first round. If you need to adjust, make the cowl one stitch smaller than the hood.

    Lengthening the Cowl

    For the rest of the rounds, do *2 FPDC, 2 BPDC* all the way around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Front post stitches will have front post stitches attached to them. You are creating long ridges.

    I did 15 rounds, but you can make the cowl any length.

    Weave in any ends and you’re done! 

    I prefer to wear mine with the cowl part up inside the hood, covering my chin and mouth, but you can also keep it down around your neck if that’s where you need the warmth.

    #mosaiccrochet #WinterTreesHoodedCowl @AshleesLint

    Congratulations! You’re done! Be sure to show off your project in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs, or tag me on Instagram!

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

    Get the Pattern

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.


    For Interlocking Crochet

    • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
      • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
      • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
      • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

      For Mosaic Crochet

      • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
        • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
        • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
        • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
        • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

      FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; Part 2

      This is our halfway point! That seems like a laughable statement since we just started last week. I’ve never done such a short CAL!

      Part 1 was the first half of the hood. In part 2 we will finish the hood. Part 3 adds the cowl neck on.

      If you’re just hearing about this project, you’ll want to return to the Introduction page, or maybe Part 1. The schedule and links to each section are just below.


      Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

      I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

      For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl“. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

      Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!


      Interlocking Crochet Pattern

      To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

      For yardage and other important details, click here.

      In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. We will now continue at row 30.

      RS – ACF

      30 MC – Ch3, 1F, *4B, 7F, 5B, 4F, 5B*, 1F, ES

      31 AC – Ch3 in front, *5F, 6B, 5F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 3F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      32 MC – Ch3, 1B, *3F, 7B, 5F, 5B, 5F*, 1B, ES

      33 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *3B, 6F, 6B, 4F, 2B, 1F, 3B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      34 MC – Ch3, 1F, *2B, 2F, 1B, 4F, 7B, 5F, 4B*, 1F, ES

      35 AC – Ch3 in front, *3F, 1B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 6F, 4B, 2F, 1B, 1F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      36 MC – Ch3, 1B, *1F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 6F, 7B, 4F*, 1B, ES

      37 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *1B, 1F, 3B, 2F, 4B, 1F, 2B, 6F, 5B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      38 MC – Ch3, 1F, *5B, 5F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

      39 AC – Ch3 in front, *1F, 1B, 4F, 4B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 6F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      40 MC – Ch3, 1B, *16F, 3B, 4F, 2B*, 1B, ES

      41 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *16B, 2F, 5B, 1F, 1B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      42 MC – Ch3, 1F, *7B, 2F, 16B*, 1F, ES

      43 AC – Ch3 in front, *8F, 1B, 16F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      44 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

      45 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *6B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 7B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      46 MC – Ch3, 1F, *6B, 2F, 9B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

      47 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 6F, 1B, 6F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      48 MC – Ch3, 1B, *13F, 2B, 7F, 2B, 1F*, 1B, ES

      49 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *1B, 1F, 11B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 2B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      50 MC – Ch3, 1F, *22B, 2F, 1B*, 1F, ES

      51 AC – Ch3 in front, *15F, 1B, 7F, 1B, 1F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      52 MC – Ch3, 1B, *9F, 2B, 14F*, 1B, ES

      53 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *9B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 4B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      54 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 2F, 20B*, 1F, ES

      55 AC – Ch3 in front, *4F, 1B, 20F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACFront

      56 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

      57 AC – Ch3 in front, *25F*, 1F, EF

      Cut and tie off AC

      RS

      58 MC – Ch3, 1B, *26B, ES

      I strongly suggest adding the revised SC Border now, but you may choose to use the simple SC Border or add no border at all.

      SC Border

      Chain 1, put 2 sc in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

      Revised SC border

      Chain 1, put 1 sc in the MC gap, and then the second sc should pick up one loop of the AC as well as going through the MC gap. Do this in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 on the corners.

      Creating the Hood

      Fold this rectangle in half and, using a whip stitch, sew the top together.

      That’s it for now!

      The cowl addition will be published in section 3 on November 7, 2022.

      Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


      Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

      The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

      To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

      View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

      In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. We will now continue at row 30.

      30 MC – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc3, sc9, dc11, sc13, dc7*, ES

      31 CC – JS, *sc4, dc3, sc3, dc7, sc15, dc9, sc9*, ES

      32 MC – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc11, sc9, dc3, sc3, dc3*, ES

      33 CC – JS, *sc8, dc9, sc1, dc3, sc13, dc5, sc5, dc3, sc3*, ES

      34 MC – JS, *dc8, sc13, dc3, sc3, dc7, sc5, dc5, sc3, dc3*, ES

      35 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc5, dc3, sc7, dc3, sc13*, ES

      36 MC – JS, *sc3, dc7, sc9, dc5, sc3, dc7, sc3, dc13*, ES

      37 CC – JS, *dc3, sc9, dc5, sc33*, ES

      38 MC – JS, *sc3, dc9, sc5, dc33*, ES

      39 CC – JS, *sc14, dc3, sc33*, ES

      40 MC – JS, *dc14, sc3, dc33*, ES

      41 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

      42 MC – JS, *dc12, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc13*, ES

      43 CC – JS, *sc12, dc3, sc19, dc3, sc13*, ES

      44 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc7, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc11, sc3, dc13*, ES

      45 CC – JS, *sc2, dc3, sc15, dc3, sc27*, ES

      46 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc15, sc3, dc21, sc3, dc3*, ES

      47 CC – JS, *sc44, dc3, sc3*, ES

      48 MC – JS, *dc28, sc3, dc13, sc3, dc3*, ES

      49 CC – JS, *sc28, dc3, sc19*, ES

      50 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc19*, ES

      51 CC – JS, *sc6, dc3, sc41*, ES

      52 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc41*, ES

      Trim the fringe, if needed.

      Creating the Hood

      Fold this rectangle in half and, using a whip stitch, sew the top together.

      Hood has been sewn at the top bu there’s still work to do!

      Time to add an envelope border

      I suggest you use a single crochet stitch for this project. My YouTube tutorial shows double crochet stitches worked in a square around a blanket (https://youtu.be/P-uXHjwTFeE). This project is slightly differnt.

      This video shows how I do an envelope border around one end of a project: https://youtu.be/VGah43YCxAw

      I did 7 rounds of single crochet after my initial surface crochet round. You may prefer a wider brim – it’s all up to you!

      That’s it for now!

      The cowl addition will be published in section 3 on November 7, 2022.

      Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

      Get the Pattern

      For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.


      For Interlocking Crochet

      • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
        • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
        • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
        • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

      For Mosaic Crochet

      • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
        • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
        • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
        • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
        • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

      FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; Part 1

      I announced this CAL (Crochet-A-Long) just a few days ago. This is my first CAL of the year! Last year I did a couple, so I couldn’t believe it when I realized it was already October and I hadn’t done any!

      This is a smaller project than my other CALs have been; I usually do blankets. I wanted to give people the opportunity to get something done before the holidays get too busy.

      The FREE pattern online will be published in 3 sections (see the schedule below). You also have the option of purchasing the FULL PATTERN and CHARTS on Ravelry or Etsy. The free online version does not include the charts.

      Links to all my tutorials can be found in the menu bar or by going back to the introduction page.


      Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

      I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

      For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

      Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!


      Interlocking Crochet Pattern

      The introduction teased you with the first 5 rows. I am repeating them here just to have everything all together. When I publish part 2 I will link back to this page for the KEY and yardage (hopefully by that time you won’t need to refer to them anymore anyway).

      For yardage and other important details, click here.

      KEY

      AC = Accent Color. Second color used. The background / sky.
      MC = Main Color. First color used. The trees.
      RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
      WS = wrong side: the back of your project
      Front = the side currently facing you
      Back = the side not facing you
      Ch = chain
      Sp = space
      Sk = skip a stitch
      SC = single crochet
      DC = double crochet
      F = DC in front, then CH 1
      B = DC behind, then CH 1
      ES = DC into the last window space
      EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
      EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
      ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
      ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

      • If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
      • Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
      • Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

      KEY for the Cowl portion:

      BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

      FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

      Foundation Rows (54 MC stitches, 53 AC stitches)

      STEP 1

      Using MC (white in my sample, the trees) create 53 windows.

      I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).

      Alternatively, to create 53 windows you can chain 110, then DC in 5th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.

      STEP 2

      With your AC (teal in my sample, the sky), chain 108. Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture BELOW). DC through the back of the next window into the 5th chain from your hook.

      Short sample showing how to put the gold AC tail through the dark purple MC trellis

      STEP 3

      Using your AC, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

      Turn your work and continue at row 4.

      WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

      4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

      5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *2B, 1F, 14B, 3F, 5B*, EB

      RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)

      6 MC – Ch3, 1F, *2B, 3F, 14B, 3F, 3B*, 1F, ES

      7 AC – Ch3 in front, *5B, 14F, 3B, 3F*, 1B, EF

      WS – ACB

      8 MC – Ch3, 1B, *1F, 2B, 3F, 4B, 15F*, 1B, ES

      9 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *4F, 2B, 4F, 8B, 1F, 6B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      10 MC – Ch3, 1F, *6B, 3F, 5B, 1F, 9B, 1F*, 1F, ES

      11 AC – Ch3 in front, *2B, 5F, 3B, 4F, 1B, 10F*, 1B, EF

      WS – ACB

      12 MC – Ch3, 1B, *12F, 4B, 5F, 3B, 1F*, 1B, ES

      13 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *12B, 3F, 5B, 3F, 2B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      14 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1F, 3B, 4F, 4B, 13F*, 1F, ES

      15 AC – Ch3 in front, *2B, 3F, 4B, 4F, 12B*, 1B, EF

      WS – ACB

      16 MC – Ch3, 1B, *11B, 1F, 5B, 4F, 4B*, 1B, ES

      17 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, *10F, 2B, 13F*, EB

      RS – ACF

      18 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 10F, 6B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

      19 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 9B, 4F, (1B, 2F) x2, 1B, 3F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      20 MC – Ch3, 1B, *3F, (2B, 1F) x2, (2B, 6F) x2*, 1B, ES

      21 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *3B, 7F, 3B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 4B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      22 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 5F, 1B, 3F, 2B, 7F, 4B*, 1F, ES

      23 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 1B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 6B, 4F*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      24 MC – Ch3, 1B, *5F, 5B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 7B, 1F, 2B, 1F*, 1B, ES

      25 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *(1F, 2B, 6F, 2B) x2, 1F, 2B*, EB

      RS – ACF

      26 MC – Ch3, 1F, *5B, 5F, 6B, 6F, 1B, 2F*, 1F, ES

      27 AC – Ch3 in front, *4F, 1B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 6B, 2F, 1B*, 1F, EF

      WS – ACB

      28 MC – Ch3, 1B, *4F, 6B, 3F, 2B, 1F, 3B, 1F, 2B, 3F*, 1B, ES

      29 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *4B, 5F, 4B, 8F, 4B*, EB

      Rows 30 – 58 (the end of the hood) will be published in section 2 on October 31, 2022.

      Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


      Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

      If you began with the introduction you will have already seen the first 5 rows. I am repeating them here just to have everything all together. When I publish part 2 I will link back to this page for the KEY and yardage (hopefully by that time you won’t need to refer to them anymore anyway).

      The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

      View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

      KEY for Mosaic Crochet

      MC = Main Color: first color used, white in my sample, the sky
      CC = Contrasting Color: second color used, green in my sample, the trees
      Sp = space
      Sk = skip a stitch
      CH = chain
      SC = single crochet
      sc = SC into Back Loop only
      FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
      DC = double crochet
      dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
      JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
      ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

      KEY for the Cowl portion

      BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

      FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

      Mosaic Crochet Technique

      • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
      • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
      • You are always working from the right to the left
      • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
        • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
      • Yarn colors can be anything you like. They need to contrast well and be the same weight (size / thickness)
      • I prefer using a Foundation Single Crochet to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all my other rows will have
      • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

      Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) – this will be your background / sky

      Use a foundation SC technique to create 102 FSC. Or chain 103, SC in 2nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

      Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

      Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.

      1 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

      2 MC – JS, *dc4, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc7, dc23, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc5*, ES

      3 CC – JS, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc29, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7*, ES

      4 MC – JS, *sc9, dc21, (sc1, dc1) x3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, ES

      5 CC – JS, *sc30, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, ES

      6 MC – JS, *dc10, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc11, sc9, dc3, sc9, dc1*, ES

      7 CC – JS, *sc12, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc1*, ES

      8 MC – JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc5, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc3, dc19, sc2*, ES

      9 CC – JS, *sc2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc25*, ES

      10 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x12, dc1*, ES

      11 CC – JS, *dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x13*, ES

      12 MC – JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc26*, ES

      13 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x11*, ES

      14 MC – JS, *sc25, dc3, sc22*, ES

      15 CC – JS, *sc2, (dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc13, dc3, sc13*, ES

      16 MC – JS, *dc2, sc19, dc7, (sc3, dc3) x2, sc3, dc7*, ES

      17 CC – JS, *sc12, dc3, sc13, (dc3, sc3) x2, dc3, sc7*, ES

      18 MC – JS, *dc6, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc5, dc5, sc15, dc7*, ES

      19 CC – JS, *sc6, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc5, dc13, sc9*, ES

      20 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc13, dc9*, ES

      21 CC – JS, *sc2, dc3, sc3, dc13, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc9, sc11*, ES

      22 MC – JS, *dc2, (sc3, dc3, sc13, dc3) x2, sc3, dc1*, ES

      23 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc13, dc11, sc3, dc3, sc1*, ES

      24 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc7, sc13, dc3, sc3, dc1*, ES

      25 CC – JS, *sc6, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc3, sc7, dc11, sc9*, ES

      26 MC – JS, *dc6, sc17, dc7, sc11, dc9*, ES

      27 CC – JS, *sc8, dc13, sc11, dc7, sc11*, ES

      28 MC – JS, *dc8, sc13, dc9, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc7*, ES

      29 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc11, dc9, sc1, dc3, sc7*, ES

      Rows 30 – 52 (the end of the hood) will be published in section 2 on October 31, 2022.

      Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

      Get the Pattern

      For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.

      For Interlocking Crochet

      • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
        • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
        • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
        • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

      For Mosaic Crochet

      • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
        • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
        • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
        • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
        • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

      FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; interlocking and mosaic crochet patterns

      For me, a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) means everyone gets an opportunity to join in. This hooded cowl will be published for FREE on my website in three parts: the first half of the hood, the 2nd half of the hood, and then the cowl.

      You also have the option of purchasing the FULL PATTERN and CHARTS on Ravelry or Etsy. The free online version will be released in stages and does not include the charts.

      As per my usual, you will have the option of using the interlocking crochet technique or the overlay mosaic crochet technique. In my samples I have used a local hand-dyed alpaca yarn for my mosaic crochet version and some acrylic yarn for my interlocking crochet version.

      I did a little promo on YouTube: https://youtu.be/vEjPwRzBo1k

      I also switched the dark/light colors for fun. Do you prefer green trees or white trees?

      White used as Main Color in both my samples (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet)

      When you use the interlocking crochet technique you’ll have a few more rows than the mosaic option because we need to lock the two layers of mesh together. Whichever color you start with will become the trees.

      With the mosaic version, because we don’t need border lines, the first color you use will actually be the background color (the sky). I used white as the sky and as the envelope border but you could use the other color for your envelope border if you prefer.

      For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

      Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!

      I also created a quick support video for the cowl portion of this project:


      Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

      I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

      If you’re new to my patterns or to one of these techniques let me go over some basics.

      All of my patterns can be made using interlocking crochet (also called Locked Filet Mesh or LFM) or overlay mosaic crochet (that’s the technique where you cut at the end of each row).

      Interlocking crochet is two layers of mesh that get created row by row and locked together strategically to show the design. Watch my tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oku_6_hN1w4&list=PLbdEDo49IQroC7Xoj6svR0J0i0HvJU1IM

      Overlay mosaic crochet uses single crochet (US terms) in the back loop only and a dropped double crochet in the front loop two rows below to create the image. My tutorial: https://youtu.be/6YwXIqKqWjI

      Old patterns and a select few of my new ones will have the exact same chart for both techniques. Most of my new patterns use a chart for mosaic crochet that has been adjusted to remove the unnecessary mesh dots and extra border lines – so the image is the same but technically the charts are different. I also have added X’s onto my mosaic charts that tell you when to do a dropped double crochet.

      Regardless of whether the charts are the same or adjusted, the way you read the charts is different for each technique. I always include the written pattern for each technique as well as the charts. You can use one or the other, or both.

      I personally prefer to use the written pattern for both techniques. Once I create the written instructions I generally don’t look at the chart again.


      Interlocking Crochet Pattern

      The hood is a rectangle that gets folded in half. It starts with 53 windows in the foundation trellis.

      For yardage and other important details, click here.

      KEY

      AC = Accent Color. Second color used. The background / sky.
      MC = Main Color. First color used. The trees.
      RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
      WS = wrong side: the back of your project
      Front = the side currently facing you
      Back = the side not facing you
      Ch = chain
      Sp = space
      Sk = skip a stitch
      SC = single crochet
      DC = double crochet
      F = DC in front, then CH 1
      B = DC behind, then CH 1
      ES = DC into the last window space
      EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
      EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
      ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
      ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

      • If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
      • Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
      • Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

      KEY for the Cowl portion:

      BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

      FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

      Foundation Rows (54 MC stitches, 53 AC stitches)

      STEP 1

      Using MC (white in my sample, the trees) create 53 windows.

      I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).

      Alternatively, to create 53 windows you can chain 110, then DC in 5th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.

      STEP 2

      With your AC (teal in my sample, the sky), chain 108. Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture BELOW). DC through the back of the next window into the 5th chain from your hook.

      Short sample showing how to put the gold AC tail through the dark purple MC trellis

      STEP 3

      Using your AC, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

      Turn your work and continue at row 4.

      WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

      4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

      5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *2B, 1F, 14B, 3F, 5B*, EB

      Row 6 will be published in section 1 on October 24, 2022.

      Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


      Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

      This chart is slightly smaller than the interlocking crochet chart because the extra border lines (that are unnecessary with this technique) have been removed. The interlocking mesh dots have also been removed, so this is a ‘solid overlay mosaic crochet’ design.

      The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

      View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

      KEY for Mosaic Crochet

      MC = Main Color: first color used, white in my sample, the sky
      CC = Contrasting Color: second color used, green in my sample, the trees
      Sp = space
      Sk = skip a stitch
      CH = chain
      SC = single crochet
      sc = SC into Back Loop only
      FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
      DC = double crochet
      dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
      JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
      ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

      KEY for the Cowl portion

      BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

      FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

      Mosaic Crochet Technique

      • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
      • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
      • You are always working from the right to the left
      • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
        • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
      • Yarn colors can be anything you like. They need to contrast well and be the same weight (size / thickness)
      • I prefer using a Foundation Single Crochet to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all my other rows will have
      • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

      Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) – this will be your background / sky

      Use a foundation SC technique to create 102 FSC. Or chain 103, SC in 2nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

      Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

      Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.

      1 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

      2 MC – JS, *dc4, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc7, dc23, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc5*, ES

      3 CC – JS, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc29, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7*, ES

      4 MC – JS, *sc9, dc21, (sc1, dc1) x3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, ES

      5 CC – JS, *sc30, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, ES

      Continue with row 6 in Section 1 which will be published on October 24, 2022.

      Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

      Get the Pattern

      For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.


      For Interlocking Crochet

      • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
        • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
        • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
        • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

        For Mosaic Crochet

        • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
        • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
        • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
        • 5 mm hook (H-8)
        • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
          • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
          • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
          • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
          • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

          April 3-9, 2022: Crochet-A-Long (CAL) Bundle 60% OFF

          If you read yesterday’s post, you’ll know that April 2022 marks my 2nd year designing anniversary and I want to celebrate! I will have sales and prizes all month long! Check out my original post about the designaversary sales.

          We are starting my celebration month with a focus on the Crochet-A-Longs (CALs) I’ve done over the last two years. I don’t have my next CAL ready yet – but I have at least two different projects that are going to be CALs at some point.

          There is something a bit magical about joining a CAL. People from all over the world are working on the same project at the same time and the accountability means that people are more likely to finish their project.

          I usually offer a free version and a paid version of the pattern. The formats have been slightly different from my first CAL to my latest CAL because I have been learning and growing and changing. I am always blown away by the support from everyone, I have the best customers and fans and friends!

          I have a page here on my website that lists my Crochet-A-Longs:

          For this first week of my anniversary celebration you can buy a bundle on Ravelry (sorry, Etsy doesn’t have the same promotions available) of ALL my CAL patterns with a steep 60% discount!

          Mother’s Day CAL crocheted by Erie Krol / zus, Father’s Day CAL crocheted by Claudia, Abstract Queen CAL crocheted by Emily Harmon, MusicCAL and Summer Direction CAL by myself, Winter 2021 CAL crocheted by NotSoBorenCrochet.

          Or, if you don’t want all of these patterns, you can take an automatic 35% (expired) your purchase of any of the patterns that were originally published as Crochet-A-Longs (CALs), no code needed. This is valid on Ravelry only. Etsy is silly about percentages I am allowed to offer you, so the automatic discount on the CAL patterns there is only 30%. (Expired)

          These links below go to these patterns on Etsy (Ravelry let me section them off for you, but Etsy is different):

          Next week I will have a different set of patterns on sale for you! I will get a YouTube video up soon where I babble about the sales this month and tell you how to enter into the first contest!

          FATW6 CAL: Adventures in Mosaic Crochet – Ocean Theme

          Good morning, Monday!

          It has been so great seeing all the new projects getting started since Thursday when my Mosaic Coral Strip was released as the first section in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6)!

          Mondays and Thursdays will be the release days of a new section – and today is Monday! Remember, all the pieces in this Crochet-A-Long have been designed by different people. The common theme is mosaic crochet and then 3 blankets were compiled from the submissions!

          Each section is FREE. Some designers, like me, have included videos. I believe all the sections include a chart and written instructions, but I guess we will have to wait and see if that’s true.

          This blog post of mine is going to be where I keep a list of all the sections as they are released. You can bookmark it if you like! You can also sign up for updates from the host: CAL Crochet A Long Facebook group

          Also, please feel free to share your progress on this CAL in my Ashlee Brotzell Designs Facebook group. Normally, I don’t allow work by other designers but since this is a group collaboration I am making an exception – I want to see your progress! 🙂

          I will link to the official CAL blog entry and you will have to scroll through their post to find the link to that section’s pattern (some are Ravelry downloads, some are on websites; different designers have different ways of doing things).

          Friends Around The World: Adventures in Mosaic Crochet – Ocean theme

          July 8, 2021: Mosaic Coral Strip by Ashlee Brotzell

          Since this is my section I will also link to my blog entry about it and the ravelry download. Plus, my handy-dandy video walk-thru: Coral Strip on YouTube

          July 12: Sally Starfish by Lynette Kosar of Lavender Cup Cottage

          Look for the link to the ravelry download near the end of the article I linked to above.

          July 15: Mosaic Crab by Suzanne Lively Boren

          This one also has a link to ravelry near the end of the article.

          July 19: Dancing Octopus by Suzanne Lively Boren

          Find the ravelry link at the end of the blog article!

          July 22: Mosaic Squid by Suzanne Lively Boren of Not So Boren Crochet

          Suzanne was busy! This is another section she did!

          July 26: The Goldfish 1 by Svetlana Rogatykh

          This goldfish section also includes a tiny border design you can use at any point in your design! And the goldfish is pretty awesome! The link the to ravelry download is at the end of the article I have linked to above.

          July 29: The Goldfish 2 by Svetlana Rogatykh

          Svetlana’s second pattern in this Crochet-A-Long is swimming the other direction! Her Ravelry link is going at the end of the post linked to above.

          August 2: Wave 1 by Svetlana Rogatykh

          Another beautiful section from Svetlana!

          August 5: Dolphin by Suzanne Boren of Not so Boren Crochet

          You must be familiar with this designer by now! The official blog post from CAL has a direct link to her download, no Ravelry this time.

          August 8: Wave 2 by Svetlana Rogatykh

          Svetlana contributed so many designs to this CAL that you could actually create a full blanket with just her designs! You can get all of them in one file now.

          August 12: My Anchors by Lana Ignjatovic of Loving Stitches Designs

          In this CAL so far we have seen some repeated designers, but here’s a new one! This designer isn’t new to designing though; if you participated in the FATW5 CAL you may recognize her name. You can grab this anchor strip right from the official CAL blog linked above.

          August 16: Dragorad’s Regatta designed by Lana Ignjatovic of Loving Stitches Designs

          Another design from Lana here! It is hosted on the CAL blog so all you need to do is scroll to the end of their blog post and find the link to her pattern!

          August 18, 2021: Sunglasses by Ashlee Brotzell

          I have the privilege of being the final piece in this ocean-themed blanket! You can view the pattern on my blog or grab the free Ravelry download. And there’s a full walk-thru on YouTube!

          After you finish crocheting these cool sunglasses, head back to the host blog and find instructions on finishing!

          FATW6: Mosaic Coral Strip

          Introduction

          This is a pattern for an overlay mosaic crochet strip that belongs in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6) “Adventures in Mosaic Crochet” hosted by CAL – Crochet A Long. Links to all past and future patterns can be found on their blog: https://calcrochetalong.com and you can join their facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/668646249929007/

          My section (this Mosaic Coral Strip) can be found here on the blog (scroll down) or downloaded on Ravelry: https://ravel.me/mosaic-coral-strip

          You can also crochet with my YouTube video to guide you! Please note: the video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row; see my other YouTube tutorial on creating a Mosaic Foundation: https://youtu.be/RqgmJQMaB7A for more information.

          When I first designed this piece I didn’t know I would be the first section in the blanket. That’s why my Coral video mentions that you will be joining to a project you already have. But I have created a video on crocheting the foundation rows now!

          Quick Bio

          I published my first pattern less than a year ago (April 1, 2020) and, honestly, that was a dream come true! My grandmother taught me to crochet when I was about 8 years old, and it has been a favorite hobby of mine in an on-again-off-again kind of way. I finished my first blanket in high school and created a few projects over the years to fit my needs (how about a bag that fits this book exactly and nothing else).

          Three years ago, I picked up my hooks in earnest again as a coping method after the traumatic delivery of my son. Crocheting – and now, pattern designing, too – are therapy for me. I am so grateful to everyone who has supported me and made it a little easier to stay at home with my 3 beautiful children.

          I was also able to achieve another dream of mine in April 2021: I got published in a magazine! My Eiffel Tower Wall Hanging can be found in Crochet Now! Magazine, issue 68. I feel a little famous now!

          The Coral Strip

          I love how wiggly and intricate coral can look. It is almost abstract enough that if you didn’t know it was called “Coral” you might just think it was random lines.

          My single repeat used 30 g of yarn (Medium 4 – worsted weight, acrylic). I used Caron Kindness in Tomato and Robin’s Egg Blue because it was what I had on hand. Unfortunately, this is a discontinued yarn. You can use any yarn medium (4) weight yarn. If you’d like some suggestions, try Yarnsub.com for a list of similar yarns.

          Like the other patterns in this CAL, each repeat is 48 stitches wide. An extra stitch is added at the beginning of each row, and two extra stitches are added to the end. Each designer may have different ways of explaining things but all the pieces in this CAL are designed to work together!

          My chart does not show those extra 3 stitches (the joining stitch, balancing stitch, and end stitch), it only shows the repeated section.

          Chart is included in the ravelry download

          If you share your works on Instagram, I would love for you to tag me: @AshleesLint

          YouTube

          I created a YouTube video to go with this pattern! You can see each stitch being done and crochet with me! Please note: the Coral video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row.

          Foundation Row YouTube Video

          Don’t forget to like and subscribe to my YouTube channel!

          Mosaic Coral Strip YouTube Video

          Important Details

          • US crochet terminology
          • Chart is 48 x 19, add 1 extra stitch at the beginning of each row and 2 extra stitches at the end of each row. Repeat is 48 + 3 stitches wide.
          • 5 mm hook (H-8)
          • 18 g / 21 yards of Main Color (MC) = coral
          • 12 g / 30 yards of Contrasting Color (CC) = light blue
          • One repeat finishes at 10” x 4” / 26 x 10 cm
          • Gauge: 18 stitches x 18 rows = 4” / 10 cm

          Key (US terminology)

          MC = Main Color: coral in chart

          CC = Contrasting Color: light blue in chart

          ch = chain

          SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

          sc = SC into Back Loop only

          DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

          dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

          JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

          ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

          Mosaic Technique

          Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending (for this pattern only, add an extra balancing stitch at the end of each row before doing the “ES = end stitch”). You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

          dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below, front loop only. Skip the (pink) single crochet behind this dc.
          sc = a single crochet in the body of this pattern goes into the back loop only
          • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
          • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
          • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
            • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
          • Yarn colors can be anything you like
            • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
            • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
          • Odd-numbered rows use MC (coral), even-numbered rows use CC (light blue)

          Optional “Locked Double Crochet”

          To prevent the small flaps on the back of your work, consider locking-in your stitch.

          Begin like a dropped double crochet: skip the next stitch, and work into the Front Loop of the stitch in the row below; yarn over, insert hook into front loop below (see first image below), pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, insert hook into back loop of skipped stitch (see second image below), yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

          Time to start crocheting!

          (There was an error with this blog but it has been fixed! I am so sorry! And majorly embarrassed 🙈)

          Row 1 can be your foundation row OR you can add it to another section.

          Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

          Foundation Row:

          Row 1 MC – Can use a chainless single crochet foundation or you can chain the desired number of stitches, plus one for turning chain. Turn, skip turning chain, single crochet into each chain.

          Repeats of 48 +3 = desired number of stitches

          For example, if you want to repeat the design twice: (48 x 2) + 3 = 99 sc needed (chain 99 + 1 = 100, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 99)

          Or, if you want to repeat the design three times: (48 x 3) + 3 = 147 sc needed (chain 147 + 1 = 148, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 147)

          OR when added to another project:

          Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

          1 MC JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

          2 CC – JS, *sc48,* sc1, ES

          3 MC – JS, *sc5, dc3, sc3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

          4 CC – JS, *dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

          5 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

          6 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1,* sc1, ES

          7 MC – JS, *sc1, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

          8 CC – JS, *dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x4,* sc1, ES

          9 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1,* sc1, ES

          10 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc3,* sc1, ES

          11 MC – JS, *(sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

          12 CC – JS, *sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x4,* sc1, ES

          13 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1,* sc1, ES

          14 CC – JS, *dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

          15 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc8,* sc1, ES

          16 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc8,* sc1, ES

          17 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc12,* sc1, ES

          18 CC – JS, *dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc11, sc1, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc12,* sc1, ES

          19 MC – JS, *sc31, dc1, sc16,* sc1, ES

          20 CC – JS, *dc31, sc1, dc16,* sc1, ES

          Trim the fringe, if needed.

          Continue with the next FATW6 ocean-themed section!

          © 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
          All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

          What does this mean?
          This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

          Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

          MusicCal 5: Piano Section

          This is the shortest section of my MusicCAL 2021 (Crochet-A-Long). So far, each week has included a divider section and then the musical design. This week, because the piano is so small, I am adding the next divider section at the end as well.

          But, WHY is the piano so small? It is really a cropped version of a keyboard. I also had to make one key slightly wider than the others to fit into the repeating window properly. This was one of those sections that was supposed to be so simple but really gave me grief and I considered omitting it altogether. I was also concerned about copyright issues – there are a few keyboards out there and there’s really only so many ways you can draw it. So, this is just my version that fits in this CAL.

          I was going to try crocheting a scarf from this section (by omitting the border design and repeating it until it was as long as a scarf). But I was so focused on finishing my Monstera Leaf blanket that I just didn’t manage to add another project into my list this week.

          This post includes the interlocking pattern and the overlay mosaic pattern (click to skip ahead to the patterns). If you’re new to these techniques, check out my tutorials on YouTube!

          Join in at any time! Share your progress in my Ravelry group, or in my Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram @ashleeslint and use hashtag #MusicCAL21

          The free pattern begins here and a new section will be released each week. If you’d prefer, you can grab the FULL pattern (with a chart!) on Ravelry or Etsy. Get 20% off for the duration of this CAL (no code required, add to cart to see the discount, expires June 24, 2021). Thank you for supporting your designer! <3 If you enjoy this free version of the pattern you could share the link and invite your friends to visit me here!

          Interlocking Crochet

          Key (US terminology)

          AC = accent color (white on chart)

          MC = main color (black on chart)

          RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

          WS = wrong side: the back of your project

          Back = the side not facing you

          Front = the side currently facing you

          ch = chain

          sk = skip a stitch

          sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

          dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

          tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

          B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

          F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

          EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

          EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

          ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

          ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

          ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

          Hints

          Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC.

          Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back.

          Continue from where we left off last week.

          Divider section 5

          WS – ACB

          128 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 5F, 9B, 5F, 4B*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

          129 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *26B*, 3B, EB

          RS – ACF

          130 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *2B, 9F, 5B, 9F, 1B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

          131 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26B*, (1B, 1F) x2, EF

          Piano section

          WS – ACB

          132 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, (3F, 1B) x2, 2F, 1B, (3F, 1B) x2, 2F*, 4B, ES

          133 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *26B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          134 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *2B, (1F, 3B) x2, 1F, 2B, (1F, 3B) x2, 1F, 2B, 1F, 1B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

          135 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *(2F, 2B) x3, 5F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F*, 4F, EF

          WS – ACB

          136 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x2, 2F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x3, 1F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

          137 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 2F, 2B, 2F, 5B, 2F, (2B, 2F) x2, 2B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          138 MC – Ch3, 4F, *1B, (3F, 1B) x3, 1F, 2B, (3F, 1B) x2, 1F, 1B*, 4F, ES

          139 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *(2F, 2B) x3, 5F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          140 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x2, 2F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x3, 1F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

          141 AC – Ch3 in back, 3B, 1F, *26F*, 3B, EB

          Divider section 6

          RS – ACF

          142 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *4F, 5B, 9F, 5B, 3F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

          143 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          144 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 9B, 5F, 9B, 2F*, 4B, ES

          145 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *26F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          Piano Section in interlocking crochet; I added another divider section to the pattern here which will be visible in next week’s photo

          See you next week for the next section of the pattern!

          ~*~*~*~*~ Or, begin here if you’re using the overlay mosaic technique! ~*~*~*~*~

          Finished the piano section on my mosaic version of the MusicCAL (oops, made a mistake in the divider section)

          Mosaic Crochet

          Key (US terminology)

          MC = Main Color: black in chart

          CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

          ch = chain

          SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

          sc = SC into Back Loop only

          DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

          dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

          JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

          ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

          Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

          Technique

          • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
          • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
          • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
            • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
          • Yarn colors can be anything you like
            • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
            • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
          • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
          • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

          Continue from last week:

          Divider section 5

          128 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          129 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          130 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          131 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          Piano section

          132 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          133 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          134 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          135 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          136 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          137 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          138 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          139 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          140 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          141 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x4, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

          Divider section 6

          142 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          143 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          144 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          145 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          See you next week for the next portion of the pattern!


          © 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
          All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

          What does this mean?
          This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

          Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

          MusicCal 4: Boom Box Section

          At the end of this section we will be halfway through the MusicCAL 2021 (Crochet-A-Long)! It has been a busy week for me: I published three new patterns! Magic Decanter, GoldieLux 40, and The Paw 20. The Paw 20 is FREE to everyone who has purchased Live Laugh Love Paws!

          This is our 4th section of the MusicCAL: the Boom Box section! I know some of you are surprised at the eclectic variation of music-themed designs in one blanket. This is very much how my husband enjoys music; a little of this and a little of that. He listens to pretty much every genre and every decade. He is eclectic. 💕

          This post includes the interlocking pattern and the overlay mosaic pattern (click to skip ahead to the patterns). If you’re new to these techniques, check out my tutorials on YouTube!

          Join in at any time! Share your progress in my Ravelry group, or in my Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram @ashleeslint and use hashtag #MusicCAL21

          The free pattern begins here and a new section will be released each week. If you’d prefer, you can grab the FULL pattern (with a chart!) on Ravelry or Etsy. Get 20% off for the duration of this CAL (no code required, add to cart to see the discount, expires June 24, 2021). Thank you for supporting your designer! <3 If you enjoy this free version of the pattern you could share the link and invite your friends to visit me here!

          Interlocking Crochet

          Key (US terminology)

          AC = accent color (white on chart)

          MC = main color (black on chart)

          RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

          WS = wrong side: the back of your project

          Back = the side not facing you

          Front = the side currently facing you

          ch = chain

          sk = skip a stitch

          sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

          dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

          tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

          B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

          F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

          EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

          EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

          ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

          ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

          ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

          Hints

          Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC.

          Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back.

          Continue from where we left off last week.

          Divider section 4

          RS – ACF

          94 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *4F, 5B, 9F, 5B, 3F*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

          95 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          96 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 9B, 5F, 9B, 2F*, 4B, ES

          97 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *26F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          Boom box section

          RS – ACF

          98 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *26B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

          99 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *1F, 24B, 1F*, 4F, EF

          WS – ACB

          100 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 1B, 23F, 1B*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

          101 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 4F, 3B, 6F, 3B, 4F, 3B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          102 MC – Ch3, 4F, *1F, (1B, 2F) x2, 2B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 2B, (2F, 1B) x2, 1F, 1B*, 4F, ES

          103 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *2F, 6B, 3F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 3F, 6B, 2F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          104 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 4B, (1F, 3B) x4, 1F, 4B*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

          105 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *(2B, 2F) x2, 3B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 3B, (2F, 2B) x2*, 3B, EB

          RS – ACF

          106 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *3F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 3F, 1B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

          107 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *4F, 2B, 5F, 4B, 5F, 2B, 4F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          108 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 3B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 3B*, 4B, ES

          109 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2B, (2F, 2B) x2, 6F, (2B, 2F) x2, 2B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          110 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *4F, 1B, 3F, 9B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

          111 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *(2F, 6B) x3, 2F*, 4F, EF

          WS – ACB

          112 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *1F, 1B, (1F, 2B) x2, 2F, 7B, 2F, (2B, 1F) x2, 1B*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

          113 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 4F, 3B, 6F, 3B, 4F, 3B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          114 MC – Ch3, 4F, *1F, 23B, 1F, 1B*, 4F, ES

          115 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          116 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *1F, 25B*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

          117 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *26B*, 3B, EB

          RS – ACF

          118 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *1F, 23B, 1F, 1B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

          119 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *1F, 24B, 1F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

          WS – ACB

          120 MC – Ch3, 4B, *7F, 2B, 9F, 2B, 6F*, 4B, ES

          121 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *7B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 7B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          122 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *6B, 2F, 9B, 2F, 7B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

          123 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *7F, 12B, 7F*, 4F, EF

          WS – ACB

          124 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *7F, 13B, 6F*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

          125 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *7B, 12F, 7B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

          RS – ACF

          126 MC – Ch3, 4F, *26B*, 4F, ES

          127 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26B*, (1B, 1F) x2, EF

          Part 3 in interlocking crochet complete

          See you next week for the next section of the pattern!

          Mosaic version, finished the boom box section

          ~*~*~*~*~ Or, begin here if you’re using the overlay mosaic technique! ~*~*~*~*~

          Mosaic Crochet

          Key (US terminology)

          MC = Main Color: black in chart

          CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

          ch = chain

          SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

          sc = SC into Back Loop only

          DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

          dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

          JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

          ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

          Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

          Technique

          • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
          • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
          • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
            • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
          • Yarn colors can be anything you like
            • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
            • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
          • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
          • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

          Continue from last week:

          Divider section 4

          94 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          95 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          96 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          97 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          Boom box section

          98 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc52*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          99 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc49, dc1, sc1*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          100 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc47, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          101 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          102 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          103 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          104 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc1) x3, {dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2} x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          105 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          106 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          107 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x4*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          108 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          109 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          110 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc19, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          111 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          112 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          113 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          114 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc47, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          115 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          116 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc1) x24, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          117 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          118 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc47, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          119 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc49, dc1, sc1*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          120 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc14*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          121 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          122 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc14*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

          123 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc25, (dc1, sc1) x7*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

          124 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc13, (dc1, sc1) x12, dc1, sc14, *(sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

          125 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc25, (dc1, sc1) x7*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          126 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc52*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

          127 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

          See you next week for the next portion of the pattern!


          © 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
          All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

          What does this mean?
          This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

          Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com