Zoo Animals Blog Hop Again!

Last year I took part in a blog hop from the 1st-16th of June where you could get at least one free animal pattern each day. My entry was my Common Unicorn pattern.

This year, My Fingers Fly has decided to run the blog hop again!

Each day you need to go to the main webpage and find out what the daily patterns are and then you can visit the designer’s website on their special day to get your free patterns!

Free Crochet Amigurumi Pattern: Floppy Stuffed Turtle Toy

I have been diligently working on this sea turtle blanket of mine for weeks. And I am so tired of it. I usually prefer to have 3 or 4 projects on the go at once. But I was trying to get this blanket done as quickly as possible so I have focused on only one project for the past few weeks and I just can’t do it any longer!

I am cheating on my project and starting something new. But I am keeping the theme so that I can pretend this is still related to my work.

I wanted something soft and fluffy so I grabbed these leftover skeins from my stash. There is a full skein of pink and white but only a teeny tiny bit of green. I remember getting these on clearance from Michael’s but I don’t remember for sure how much I paid. I used them for some baby blankets a few months ago.

This yarn is classed as a 4-medium weight and it is super fluffy and soft. It has a strip of sparkle in it that can sort of irritate the hands while crocheting but isn’t noticeable in the finished piece.

The skein label suggests using a 5.5 mm crochet hook but you usually need to use a smaller hook when you do amigurumi because you will want the stitches to be quite tight. We aren’t looking for drape in a toy like we would want in a blanket or a sweater.

I plan on making three turtles (I have 3 kids, if you didn’t already know, and I try to make things fair when possible). I managed to get three circles out of the green I had so that will be the top of each shell.

I have two girls and one son and they like it when their things are the same but different, you know what I mean? So I am going to use white for the “boy” turtle flippers and pink for the “girl” turtles.

I think all their tummies can just be white and their heads should match their tummy piece.

So, for one turtle I will need a green shell, a white tummy, 4 flippers and a head. That means 6 circles and a ball.

Remember, even though isn’t a nice PDF pattern it is still my work and you can’t copy it and sell it as your own. Thank you for supporting your designers!

Materials Needed

  • 4.5 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Finishing needle
  • Small amount of fluffy yarn
    • I used Premier Pixie Dust yarn, less than a handful of green and about a fist size of white
  • Small amount of Stuffing material (I used yarn scraps)

Key

I use american crochet terminology and I believe these are all quite common abbreviations.

Ch = chain = yarn over and pull a loop through

DC = double crochet = yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook

Inc = increase = do two stitches in the same spot

Magic circle = a magic trick that allows you to tighten the hole around your first stitches but I can never figure it out 🤣

SC = single crochet = insert hook, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

SC dec = decrease = sc2tog = insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up another loop, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook

Sl st = slip stitch = insert hook and pull a loop through

Whip stitch = use a large finishing needle to sew the pieces together

Cupped Circles for Shell

I am using a 4.5 mm hook with this fluffy worsted weight yarn. The fluff makes it look full but there is actually still some gapping between the stitches so that makes it hard to use for amigurumi. Do NOT overstuff a piece like this.

The shell is supposed to pucker to make space for stuffing.

Step 1: you can do a magic circle or just chain three and work in the first chain. Create 8 double crochets in the first chain/magic circle. Join with a slip stitch. (8)

Step 2: chain 2 (counts as dc), double crochet in same stitch (increase has been made). Put 2 double crochets in each stitch around (increase in each stitch). Join with slip stitch. (16)

Step 3: chain 2, double crochet in same stitch (increase has been made). Repeat *dc, inc* all the way around. Or, another way to say that is put one double crochet in the next stitch, then two double crochets in the following stitch. Repeat doing one then two all the way around. Join with a slip stitch. (24)

If you feel it is puckering too much you can add an extra stitch or two – no one will be counting your stitches when we are done.

Step 4: chain 2, double crochet in same stitch (increase has been made). Repeat *dc, dc, inc* around. Join with a slip stitch. (32)

Step 5: cut and tie off.

Flat Circle for Tummy and Flippers

These circles aren’t supposed to pucker like the shell but it is ok of they are only “flatish”, they don’t need to be perfect.

You need one tummy and 4 flippers per turtle (I am doing 3 white tummies and then the flippers for one turtle will be white but for the other 2 turtles they will pink).

Tummy and flippers

Step 1: you can do a magic circle or just chain three and work in the first chain. Create 12 double crochets in the first chain/magic circle. Join with a slip stitch. (12)

Step 2: chain 2 (counts as dc), double crochet in same stitch (increase has been made). Put 2 double crochets in each stitch around (increase in each stitch). Join with slip stitch. (24)

Step 3: chain 2 (counts as dc), double crochet in same spot. Repeat *dc, inc* around. Join with slip stitch. (36)

Step 4: for the flippers: fold the circle in half and slip stitch it closed before cutting your yarn.

Flipper circle folded in half before seaming together

Step 4: for the tummy: cut and tie off.

Tummy circle

Ball for Head

I am using the same color for the head as I used for the flippers.

Step 1: you can do a magic circle or just chain two and work in the first chain. Create 6 single crochets in the first chain/magic circle. Join with a slip stitch. (6)

You may want to use a stitch marker to help you find the beginning of each round.

Step 2: chain 1 (doesn’t count as sc). Put 2 single crochets in each stitch around (increase in each stitch). Join with slip stitch. (12)

Step 3: chain 1 (doesn’t count as sc). Repeat *sc, inc* around. Join with slip stitch. (18)

Step 4: chain 1 (doesn’t count as sc). Repeat *sc, sc, inc* around. Join with slip stitch. (24)

Step 5: chain 1 (doesn’t count as sc). Put 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch. (24)

Step 6: chain 1, sc decrease in each stitch around (see key). Join with slip stitch. (12)

Step 7: stuff it! Make sure the right side is facing out first. Use stuffing or, alternatively, you can crochet 25 chains, then dc back and stuff that in there. Slip stitch it to the same stitch you were at and then continue to step 8.

Step 8: chain 1, sc decrease in each stitch around (see key). Join with slip stitch. (6)

Step 9: chain 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch. (6)

Step 10: cut and tie off. Optionally: add some embroidery eyes. I just made slitted sleepy eyes because they are the easiest.

Assembly

Now that we have all the pieces we need to join them together. First attach the head to the white tummy circle (flatten the neck and whip stitch the 6 stitches of the neck to the edge of the tummy circle).

Sew the flippers to the tummy circle. I like having the sewn edges facing up towards the head. Overlap the points of the half circle into the tummy area like the photos below show.

At this point I realized a tail would be easy and make it look cuter so I chained 5, then sc 4 stitches back and used the tails to sew it to the white tummy circle before adding the green top shell.

Then sew your green shell on top of that mess. Make sure to stuff it before sewing it completely. I am using some scrap yarn for stuffing this part. Remember, those dc stitches make large gaps and aren’t ideal for small stuffing.

In general, do not use double crochet (US terminology) for amigurumi. If you see a pattern asking for double crochet make sure they aren’t actually using UK terminology- their double crochets are the same as our single crochets.

I used dc for this one because there isn’t a lot of stuffing to do. The holes are too big to properly stuff this guy.

Ok, I should get back to my blanket now. So many of you are waiting patiently for that pattern (and no one was asking for this stuffed toy 🤣).

Year of Gnomes Title Banner, Free Pattern in Facebook Group

Today I have managed to send a finished custom pattern to a customer, read and reply to some emails (regarding testing two new patterns), and I almost got lost in scrolling through Instagram and Facebook but I managed to pull myself out.

It is such a strange dichotomy – the need to be on social media for business, but the distraction of social media that interrupts working.

On Instagram I asked for some feedback on my most recent Crochet-A-Long (Winter 2021). If you have anything you’d like me to know about the way I do CALs please contact me. Or comment on my Instagram post.

In my Facebook group I posted an interlocking version and a mosaic version (both with charts and written instructions for right- and left-handed crocheters) of a title banner for the Year of Gnomes set. Someone asked if I could make a banner and I decided it would be an acceptable use of my time. It is not going to be part of the Ravelry or Etsy eBook because there are already so many files there and I don’t want to confuse people.

You can grab the files here on my website if you don’t use Facebook. Please remember to share the link to my website if your friend would like a copy of the pattern instead of sending them the PDF yourself.

Both files have the written instructions for right-handed crocheters, then left-handed written instructions. The chart can be found after the written lines.

If you don’t want to add it to your gnomes you can use it as a scarf! Or a table runner. Although I think your guests might have a lot of questions if you draped this across your dining table.

I’m off to bake some muffins with the kids now!

FATW6 CAL: Adventures in Mosaic Crochet – Ocean Theme

Good morning, Monday!

It has been so great seeing all the new projects getting started since Thursday when my Mosaic Coral Strip was released as the first section in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6)!

Mondays and Thursdays will be the release days of a new section – and today is Monday! Remember, all the pieces in this Crochet-A-Long have been designed by different people. The common theme is mosaic crochet and then 3 blankets were compiled from the submissions!

Each section is FREE. Some designers, like me, have included videos. I believe all the sections include a chart and written instructions, but I guess we will have to wait and see if that’s true.

This blog post of mine is going to be where I keep a list of all the sections as they are released. You can bookmark it if you like! You can also sign up for updates from the host: CAL Crochet A Long Facebook group

Also, please feel free to share your progress on this CAL in my Ashlee Brotzell Designs Facebook group. Normally, I don’t allow work by other designers but since this is a group collaboration I am making an exception – I want to see your progress! 🙂

I will link to the official CAL blog entry and you will have to scroll through their post to find the link to that section’s pattern (some are Ravelry downloads, some are on websites; different designers have different ways of doing things).

Friends Around The World: Adventures in Mosaic Crochet – Ocean theme

July 8, 2021: Mosaic Coral Strip by Ashlee Brotzell

Since this is my section I will also link to my blog entry about it and the ravelry download. Plus, my handy-dandy video walk-thru: Coral Strip on YouTube

July 12: Sally Starfish by Lynette Kosar of Lavender Cup Cottage

Look for the link to the ravelry download near the end of the article I linked to above.

July 15: Mosaic Crab by Suzanne Lively Boren

This one also has a link to ravelry near the end of the article.

July 19: Dancing Octopus by Suzanne Lively Boren

Find the ravelry link at the end of the blog article!

July 22: Mosaic Squid by Suzanne Lively Boren of Not So Boren Crochet

Suzanne was busy! This is another section she did!

July 26: The Goldfish 1 by Svetlana Rogatykh

This goldfish section also includes a tiny border design you can use at any point in your design! And the goldfish is pretty awesome! The link the to ravelry download is at the end of the article I have linked to above.

July 29: The Goldfish 2 by Svetlana Rogatykh

Svetlana’s second pattern in this Crochet-A-Long is swimming the other direction! Her Ravelry link is going at the end of the post linked to above.

August 2: Wave 1 by Svetlana Rogatykh

Another beautiful section from Svetlana!

August 5: Dolphin by Suzanne Boren of Not so Boren Crochet

You must be familiar with this designer by now! The official blog post from CAL has a direct link to her download, no Ravelry this time.

August 8: Wave 2 by Svetlana Rogatykh

Svetlana contributed so many designs to this CAL that you could actually create a full blanket with just her designs! You can get all of them in one file now.

August 12: My Anchors by Lana Ignjatovic of Loving Stitches Designs

In this CAL so far we have seen some repeated designers, but here’s a new one! This designer isn’t new to designing though; if you participated in the FATW5 CAL you may recognize her name. You can grab this anchor strip right from the official CAL blog linked above.

August 16: Dragorad’s Regatta designed by Lana Ignjatovic of Loving Stitches Designs

Another design from Lana here! It is hosted on the CAL blog so all you need to do is scroll to the end of their blog post and find the link to her pattern!

August 18, 2021: Sunglasses by Ashlee Brotzell

I have the privilege of being the final piece in this ocean-themed blanket! You can view the pattern on my blog or grab the free Ravelry download. And there’s a full walk-thru on YouTube!

After you finish crocheting these cool sunglasses, head back to the host blog and find instructions on finishing!

FATW6: Mosaic Coral Strip

Introduction

This is a pattern for an overlay mosaic crochet strip that belongs in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6) “Adventures in Mosaic Crochet” hosted by CAL – Crochet A Long. Links to all past and future patterns can be found on their blog: https://calcrochetalong.com and you can join their facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/668646249929007/

My section (this Mosaic Coral Strip) can be found here on the blog (scroll down) or downloaded on Ravelry: https://ravel.me/mosaic-coral-strip

You can also crochet with my YouTube video to guide you! Please note: the video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row; see my other YouTube tutorial on creating a Mosaic Foundation: https://youtu.be/RqgmJQMaB7A for more information.

When I first designed this piece I didn’t know I would be the first section in the blanket. That’s why my Coral video mentions that you will be joining to a project you already have. But I have created a video on crocheting the foundation rows now!

Quick Bio

I published my first pattern less than a year ago (April 1, 2020) and, honestly, that was a dream come true! My grandmother taught me to crochet when I was about 8 years old, and it has been a favorite hobby of mine in an on-again-off-again kind of way. I finished my first blanket in high school and created a few projects over the years to fit my needs (how about a bag that fits this book exactly and nothing else).

Three years ago, I picked up my hooks in earnest again as a coping method after the traumatic delivery of my son. Crocheting – and now, pattern designing, too – are therapy for me. I am so grateful to everyone who has supported me and made it a little easier to stay at home with my 3 beautiful children.

I was also able to achieve another dream of mine in April 2021: I got published in a magazine! My Eiffel Tower Wall Hanging can be found in Crochet Now! Magazine, issue 68. I feel a little famous now!

The Coral Strip

I love how wiggly and intricate coral can look. It is almost abstract enough that if you didn’t know it was called “Coral” you might just think it was random lines.

My single repeat used 30 g of yarn (Medium 4 – worsted weight, acrylic). I used Caron Kindness in Tomato and Robin’s Egg Blue because it was what I had on hand. Unfortunately, this is a discontinued yarn. You can use any yarn medium (4) weight yarn. If you’d like some suggestions, try Yarnsub.com for a list of similar yarns.

Like the other patterns in this CAL, each repeat is 48 stitches wide. An extra stitch is added at the beginning of each row, and two extra stitches are added to the end. Each designer may have different ways of explaining things but all the pieces in this CAL are designed to work together!

My chart does not show those extra 3 stitches (the joining stitch, balancing stitch, and end stitch), it only shows the repeated section.

Chart is included in the ravelry download

If you share your works on Instagram, I would love for you to tag me: @AshleesLint

YouTube

I created a YouTube video to go with this pattern! You can see each stitch being done and crochet with me! Please note: the Coral video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row.

Foundation Row YouTube Video

Don’t forget to like and subscribe to my YouTube channel!

Mosaic Coral Strip YouTube Video

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 48 x 19, add 1 extra stitch at the beginning of each row and 2 extra stitches at the end of each row. Repeat is 48 + 3 stitches wide.
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • 18 g / 21 yards of Main Color (MC) = coral
  • 12 g / 30 yards of Contrasting Color (CC) = light blue
  • One repeat finishes at 10” x 4” / 26 x 10 cm
  • Gauge: 18 stitches x 18 rows = 4” / 10 cm

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: coral in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: light blue in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending (for this pattern only, add an extra balancing stitch at the end of each row before doing the “ES = end stitch”). You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below, front loop only. Skip the (pink) single crochet behind this dc.
sc = a single crochet in the body of this pattern goes into the back loop only
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Odd-numbered rows use MC (coral), even-numbered rows use CC (light blue)

Optional “Locked Double Crochet”

To prevent the small flaps on the back of your work, consider locking-in your stitch.

Begin like a dropped double crochet: skip the next stitch, and work into the Front Loop of the stitch in the row below; yarn over, insert hook into front loop below (see first image below), pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, insert hook into back loop of skipped stitch (see second image below), yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Time to start crocheting!

(There was an error with this blog but it has been fixed! I am so sorry! And majorly embarrassed 🙈)

Row 1 can be your foundation row OR you can add it to another section.

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

Foundation Row:

Row 1 MC – Can use a chainless single crochet foundation or you can chain the desired number of stitches, plus one for turning chain. Turn, skip turning chain, single crochet into each chain.

Repeats of 48 +3 = desired number of stitches

For example, if you want to repeat the design twice: (48 x 2) + 3 = 99 sc needed (chain 99 + 1 = 100, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 99)

Or, if you want to repeat the design three times: (48 x 3) + 3 = 147 sc needed (chain 147 + 1 = 148, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 147)

OR when added to another project:

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

1 MC JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

2 CC – JS, *sc48,* sc1, ES

3 MC – JS, *sc5, dc3, sc3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

4 CC – JS, *dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

5 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

6 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1,* sc1, ES

7 MC – JS, *sc1, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

8 CC – JS, *dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x4,* sc1, ES

9 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1,* sc1, ES

10 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc3,* sc1, ES

11 MC – JS, *(sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

12 CC – JS, *sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x4,* sc1, ES

13 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1,* sc1, ES

14 CC – JS, *dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

15 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc8,* sc1, ES

16 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc8,* sc1, ES

17 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc12,* sc1, ES

18 CC – JS, *dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc11, sc1, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc12,* sc1, ES

19 MC – JS, *sc31, dc1, sc16,* sc1, ES

20 CC – JS, *dc31, sc1, dc16,* sc1, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

Continue with the next FATW6 ocean-themed section!

© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

MusicCal 8: Second Sheet Music Section and Finishing

This is the final post for my MusicCAL 2021 (Crochet-A-Long). We did it!

I am so sorry for all the website trouble this past week! 😔 Please take advantage of my apology-sale until June 20: use code “GLAMPING” to get 40% off my entire Ravelry store!

I have sent a newsletter this morning as well: https://mailchi.mp/3fb2b7561de9/website-issues-musiccal-part-8-sale

This post includes the interlocking pattern and the overlay mosaic pattern (click to skip ahead to the patterns). If you’re new to these techniques, check out my tutorials on YouTube!

Join in at any time! Share your progress in my Ravelry group, or in my Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram @ashleeslint and use hashtag #MusicCAL21

The free pattern begins here and a new section will be released each week. If you’d prefer, you can grab the FULL pattern (with a chart!) on Ravelry or Etsy. Get 20% off for the duration of this CAL (no code required, add to cart to see the discount, expires June 24, 2021). Thank you for supporting your designer! <3 If you enjoy this free version of the pattern you could share the link and invite your friends to visit me here!

Interlocking Crochet

Key (US terminology)

AC = accent color (white on chart)

MC = main color (black on chart)

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

WS = wrong side: the back of your project

Back = the side not facing you

Front = the side currently facing you

ch = chain

sk = skip a stitch

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

tr = treble crochet twice: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

Hints

Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC.

Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back.

Continue from where we left off last week.

Sheet music section 2 (or: Second Sheet Music Section)

RS – ACF

202 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *26B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

203 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *1F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 18F*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

204 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *18F, 3B, 2F, 3B*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

205 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *17F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

206 MC – Ch3, 4F, *3F, 2B, 3F, 18B*, 4F, ES

207 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *1F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 9F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

208 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *9F, 3B, 2F, 3B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

209 AC – Ch3 in back, 3B, 1F, *8F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, (1B, 2F) x2, 2B, 3F, 2B*, 3B, EB

RS – ACF

210 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *1F, 4B, 1F, 3B, 3F, 2B, 3F, 9B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

211 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *10F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 2B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

212 MC – Ch3, 4B, *3B, 2F, 3B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B*, 4B, ES

213 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2F, 1B, 1F, (1B, 2F) x2, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 2B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

214 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *(1F, 4B, 1F, 3B) x2, 3F, 2B, 3F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

215 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *1F, 5B, 13F, 2B, 3F, 2B*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

216 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *2F, (1B, 4F, 1B, 3F) x2, 6B*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

217 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *1F, (2B, 3F, 2B, 2F) x2, 1B, 5F, 1B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

218 MC – Ch3, 4F, *9B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 3B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 2B*, 4F, ES

219 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *10F, 5B, 11F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

220 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *2F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 3F, 6B, 9F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

221 AC – Ch3 in back, 3B, 1F, *1F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 9F*, 3B, EB

RS – ACF

222 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *18B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 2B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

223 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *19F, 5B, 2F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

224 MC – Ch3, 4B, *2F, 6B, 18F*, 4B, ES

225 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2B, 5F, 19B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

226 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *26B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

227 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *26B*, 1B, 3F, EF

Divider section 9

WS – ACB

228 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *3B, 5F, 9B, 5F, 4B*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

229 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *26B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

230 MC – Ch3, 4F, *2B, 9F, 5B, 9F, 1B*, 4F, ES

231 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26B*, (1B, 1F) x2, EF

Top Border section

WS – ACB

232 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, *26F*, 3F, 1B, ES

233 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 1F, (1B, 2F, 1B, 1F) x2, 1B, 1F, 2B, 2F, 1B, 1F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

234 MC – Ch3, 3F, 1B, *1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 3B, (2F, 1B) x2, 2F, 3B, 1F, 2B, 2F, 1B*, 1B, 3F, ES

235 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *1F, 2B, 2F, (1B, 1F) x2, 2B, 1F, 3B, 1F, 2B, (1F, 1B) x2, 2F, 2B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACF*

236 MC – Ch3, 1B, 3F, *26F*, 3F, 1B, ES

237 AC – Ch3 in front, 4F, *26F*, 3F, EF

Cut and tie off AC

RS

238 MC – Ch3, 4B, *26B*, 4B, ES

Cut and tie off OR add border first.

SC Border

Chain 1, put 2 sc in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

FINISHED!

Take a picture and share it!

@Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet

#MusicCAL21

IMAGE: final section of the MusicCAL. Another section of sheet music, then the final border design. Purple and yellow, interlocking crochet.
The final section of the MusicCAL, interlocking crochet

~*~*~*~*~ Or, begin here if you’re using the overlay mosaic technique! ~*~*~*~*~

IMAGE: final section of the MusicCAL. Blue and white, overlay mosaic crochet. Part of previous Treble Clef section is visible as well.

Mosaic Crochet

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: black in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Technique

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Continue from last week:

Sheet music section 2 (or: Second Sheet Music Section)

202 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc52*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

203 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x18*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

204 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x3, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc36*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

205 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc35*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

206 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x3, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc36*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

207 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x9*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

208 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc18*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

209 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc17*, sc2, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

210 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc18*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

211 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

212 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

213 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

214 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

215 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x12, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

216 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x6, sc7, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc4*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

217 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc11, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

218 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc19, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc4*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

219 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x11*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

220 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc19, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc4*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

221 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x4, sc1, *sc18, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, sc2, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

222 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc37, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc4*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

223 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x18, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

224 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc37, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc4*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

225 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x18, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

226 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc52*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

227 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x4, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

Divider section 9

228 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

229 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

230 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

231 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

Top Border section

232 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc6, *sc52*, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

233 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

234 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc2, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2*, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, ES

235 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

236 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc6, *sc52*, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

237 – JS, sc9, *sc52*, sc10, ES

238 – JS, dc1, sc8, *sc52*, sc9, dc1, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

Add optional envelope border or twist your tails.

Share your beautiful creation! Tag me @AshleesLint and use #MusicCAL21


© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

MusicCal 7: Treble Clef

Nearly done the MusicCAL 2021 (Crochet-A-Long). I’ve sure hope you’ve been enjoying yourself!

I was scared this post wouldn’t work after the website issues 😬 but everything (mostly) seems to be back on track! I guess I created that apology sale too early lol but that’s lucky for you!

This post includes the interlocking pattern and the overlay mosaic pattern (click to skip ahead to the patterns). If you’re new to these techniques, check out my tutorials on YouTube!

Join in at any time! Share your progress in my Ravelry group, or in my Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram @ashleeslint and use hashtag #MusicCAL21

The free pattern begins here and a new section will be released each week. If you’d prefer, you can grab the FULL pattern (with a chart!) on Ravelry or Etsy. Get 20% off for the duration of this CAL (no code required, add to cart to see the discount, expires June 24, 2021). Thank you for supporting your designer! <3 If you enjoy this free version of the pattern you could share the link and invite your friends to visit me here!

Interlocking Crochet

Key (US terminology)

AC = accent color (white on chart)

MC = main color (black on chart)

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

WS = wrong side: the back of your project

Back = the side not facing you

Front = the side currently facing you

ch = chain

sk = skip a stitch

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

Hints

Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC.

Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back.

Continue from where we left off last week.

Treble clef section

RS – ACF

178 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *26B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

179 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *7F, 6B, 13F*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

180 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *13F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 6F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

181 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *12B, (1F, 6B) x2*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

182 MC – Ch3, 4F, *5B, 1F, 7B, 1F, 12B*, 4F, ES

183 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *1F, 2B, 11F, 1B, 4F, 6B, 1F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

184 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 8F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

185 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *1F, 6B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 3B, 3F, 3B, (1F, 2B) x2*, 3B, EB

RS – ACF

186 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *1F, (3B, 1F) x2, 2B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 8B, 1F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

187 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *1F, 16B, 9F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

188 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1B, 12F, 1B, (3F, 1B) x2, 4F*, 4B, ES

189 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *1F, 7B, 1F, 6B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 5B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

190 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *5B, 1F, 2B, (1F, 1B) x2, 1F, 4B, 1F, 6B, 1F, 1B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

191 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *9F, 2B, 7F, 2B, 4F, 1B, 1F*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

192 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *2F, 1B, 3F, 1B, (6F, 1B) x2, 5F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

193 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2B, 4F, 7B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 6B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

194 MC – Ch3, 4F, *6B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 14B*, 4F, ES

195 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *7F, 5B, 14F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

196 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *26F*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

197 AC – Ch3 in back, 3B, 1F, *26F*, 3B, EB

Divider section 8

RS – ACF

198 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *4F, 5B, 9F, 5B, 3F*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

199 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

200 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 9B, 5F, 9B, 2F*, 4B, ES

201 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *26F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

Part 7 in interlocking crochet complete

See you next week for the next section of the pattern!

~*~*~*~*~ Or, begin here if you’re using the overlay mosaic technique! ~*~*~*~*~

This mosaic blanket is getting some strange color combos but here is my treble clef

Mosaic Crochet

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: black in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Technique

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Continue from last week:

Treble clef section

178 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc52*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

179 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x13*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

180 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc13, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc26*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

181 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x12*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

182 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc11, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc24*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

183 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x10, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc1*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

184 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

185 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

186 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc1, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc17, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

187 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc33, (dc1, sc1) x9*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

188 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc9, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc25, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

189 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

190 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc11, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

191 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

192 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc11, (dc1, sc13) x2, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc4*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

193 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

194 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc13, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc28*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

195 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x14*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

196 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc52*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

197 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x4, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

Divider section 8

198 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

199 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

200 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

201 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

See you next week for the next portion of the pattern!


© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

Blog Hop Feature: Rose in Bloom

I am happy to be part of a flower-themed blog-hop this month! Jo’s Crafty Hook has been sharing a FREE crochet pattern everyday and today one of my patterns is in the lineup!

This square can be used as a panel in a blanket, the front of a pillow form, a wall hanging, or just a baby blanket by itself! Normally it is a paid pattern, but today, for the flower blog hop, you can download it for FREE!

The pink graphic above links you directly to your ravelry cart where the free pattern is ready for you (using code: “CraftyHook“, valid until June 7, 2021).

I originally published this square, Rose in Bloom, in August 2020. But, back then I didn’t create a blog post for every new pattern. I have it listed in my Doctor Who Series because it repesents Rose, the character, for me. 💕

All of my patterns include written line-by-line instructions for the interlocking technique and the overlay mosaic technique, as well as a chart (81 x 81 for Rose in Bloom).

I crocheted my sample in the photo using the overlay mosaic technique. I have a pdf tutorial and a YouTube tutorial on this technique.

I used a 5 mm hook instead of my usual 4.5 mm hook because I was hoping it would be large enough to be a baby blanket all by itself. With a 4.5 mm hook my square is 20″ but with the 5 mm hook it came out 22″. I used an envelope border to cover the tails that are created with the mosaic technique and my final piece was 26″.

Usually I join my squares of this size to other squares of this size and create a blanket that way.

I prefer to use the interlocking crochet method when I plan on joining squares.

Find more of my large afghan squares here: ashleeslint.com/patterns#large

MusicCal 6: Headphones Section

Honestly, this was the most boring section to crochet. Too many repeats for my liking. But perhaps that will make it quick for some of you! We are nearing the end of my MusicCAL 2021 (Crochet-A-Long) and I sure do enjoy seeing your progress in my Facebook group!

This post includes the interlocking pattern and the overlay mosaic pattern (click to skip ahead to the patterns). If you’re new to these techniques, check out my tutorials on YouTube!

Join in at any time! Share your progress in my Ravelry group, or in my Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram @ashleeslint and use hashtag #MusicCAL21

The free pattern begins here and a new section will be released each week. If you’d prefer, you can grab the FULL pattern (with a chart!) on Ravelry or Etsy. Get 20% off for the duration of this CAL (no code required, add to cart to see the discount, expires June 24, 2021). Thank you for supporting your designer! <3 If you enjoy this free version of the pattern you could share the link and invite your friends to visit me here!

Interlocking Crochet

Key (US terminology)

AC = accent color (white on chart)

MC = main color (black on chart)

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

WS = wrong side: the back of your project

Back = the side not facing you

Front = the side currently facing you

ch = chain

sk = skip a stitch

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

Hints

Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC.

Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back.

Continue from where we left off last week.

Headphones section

RS – ACF

146 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *26B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

147 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *2B, 16F, 6B, 2F*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

148 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2F, 7B, 15F, 1B, 1F*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

149 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *1B, 8F, 14B, 1F, 2B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

150 MC – Ch3, 4F, *2B, 1F, 13B, 2F, 5B, 2F, 1B*, 4F, ES

151 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *3F, 2B, 6F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 6F, 2B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

152 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2B, 7F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 5F, 3B, 2F*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

153 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *1F, 8B, 1F, 3B, 2F, 6B, 2F, 3B*, 3B, EB

RS – ACF

154 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *2B, 3F, 5B, 3F, 2B, 2F, 7B, 2F*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

155 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *3F, 2B, 6F, 2B, 3F, 1B, 8F, 1B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

156 MC – Ch3, 4B *2B, 7F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 5F, 3B, 2F*, 4B, ES

157 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *1F, 8B, 1F, 3B, 2F, 6B, 2F, 3B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

158 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *2B, 1F, 9B, 1F, 2B, 2F, 7B, 2F*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

159 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *3F, 1B, 8F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 8F, 1B*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

160 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B*, 1B, 9F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 7F, 2B, 2F*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

161 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *2F, 6B, 2F, 3B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 3B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

162 MC – Ch3, 4F, *2B, 2F, 7B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 5B, 3F*, 4F, ES

163 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *3F, 1B, 8F, 1B, 3F, 2B, 6F, 2B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

164 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 5F, 3B, 2F, 2B, 7F, 2B, 2F*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

165 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *2F, 6B, 2F, 3B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 3B*, 3B, EB

RS – ACF

166 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *2B, 2F, 7B, 2F, 2B, 3F, 5B, 3F*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

167 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *3F, 2B, 6F, 2B, 3F, 2B, 6F, 2B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

168 MC – Ch3, 4B, *10F, 1B, 3F, 2B, 5F, 2B, 3F*, 4B, ES

169 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *10B, 1F, 3B, 8F, 4B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

170 MC – Ch3, 1F, 2B, 1F, *4B, 7F, 3B, 1F, 11B*, 1F, 2B, 1F, ES

171 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *5F, 6B, 2F, 2B, 11F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

172 MC – Ch3, 4B, *26F*, 4B, ES

173 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *26F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

Divider section 7

RS – ACF

174 MC – Ch3, 1F, 2B, 1F, *4F, 5B, 9F, 5B, 3F*, 1F, 2B, 1F, ES

175 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

176 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 9B, 5F, 9B, 2F*, 4B, ES

177 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *26F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

Part 6 in interlocking crochet complete, another divider section is included in the written pattern here but not shown in the image

See you next week for the next section of the pattern!

~*~*~*~*~ Or, begin here if you’re using the overlay mosaic technique! ~*~*~*~*~

If you are changing colors for each section you actually need to change colors 2 rows before the sectiom starts. The sections are divided to make each part look finished, not in anticipation of changing colors. I will anticipate better in my next CAL 😉

Mosaic Crochet

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: black in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Technique

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Continue from last week:

Headphones section

146 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc52*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

147 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x4, sc1, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x15, dc1, sc13, (dc1, sc1) x2*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

148 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc3, dc1, sc31, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc4*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

149 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x13, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc1*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

150 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc27, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

151 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

152 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

153 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

154 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

155 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

156 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

157 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

158 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

159 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

160 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc19, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

161 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

162 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

163 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

164 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

165 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x7, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

166 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

167 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc5*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

168 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc20*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

169 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc17, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x10*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

170 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, *sc9, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc22*, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

171 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x11*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

172 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc52*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

173 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

Divider section 7

174 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

175 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

176 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES 177 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

See you next week for the next portion of the pattern!


© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

MusicCal 5: Piano Section

This is the shortest section of my MusicCAL 2021 (Crochet-A-Long). So far, each week has included a divider section and then the musical design. This week, because the piano is so small, I am adding the next divider section at the end as well.

But, WHY is the piano so small? It is really a cropped version of a keyboard. I also had to make one key slightly wider than the others to fit into the repeating window properly. This was one of those sections that was supposed to be so simple but really gave me grief and I considered omitting it altogether. I was also concerned about copyright issues – there are a few keyboards out there and there’s really only so many ways you can draw it. So, this is just my version that fits in this CAL.

I was going to try crocheting a scarf from this section (by omitting the border design and repeating it until it was as long as a scarf). But I was so focused on finishing my Monstera Leaf blanket that I just didn’t manage to add another project into my list this week.

This post includes the interlocking pattern and the overlay mosaic pattern (click to skip ahead to the patterns). If you’re new to these techniques, check out my tutorials on YouTube!

Join in at any time! Share your progress in my Ravelry group, or in my Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram @ashleeslint and use hashtag #MusicCAL21

The free pattern begins here and a new section will be released each week. If you’d prefer, you can grab the FULL pattern (with a chart!) on Ravelry or Etsy. Get 20% off for the duration of this CAL (no code required, add to cart to see the discount, expires June 24, 2021). Thank you for supporting your designer! <3 If you enjoy this free version of the pattern you could share the link and invite your friends to visit me here!

Interlocking Crochet

Key (US terminology)

AC = accent color (white on chart)

MC = main color (black on chart)

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

WS = wrong side: the back of your project

Back = the side not facing you

Front = the side currently facing you

ch = chain

sk = skip a stitch

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

Hints

Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC.

Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back.

Continue from where we left off last week.

Divider section 5

WS – ACB

128 MC – Ch3, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 5F, 9B, 5F, 4B*, 2B, 1F, 1B, ES

129 AC – Ch3 in back, 4B, *26B*, 3B, EB

RS – ACF

130 MC – Ch3, 2F, 1B, 1F, *2B, 9F, 5B, 9F, 1B*, 1F, 1B, 2F, ES

131 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26B*, (1B, 1F) x2, EF

Piano section

WS – ACB

132 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, (3F, 1B) x2, 2F, 1B, (3F, 1B) x2, 2F*, 4B, ES

133 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *26B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

134 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *2B, (1F, 3B) x2, 1F, 2B, (1F, 3B) x2, 1F, 2B, 1F, 1B*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

135 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, *(2F, 2B) x3, 5F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F*, 4F, EF

WS – ACB

136 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x2, 2F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x3, 1F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

137 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, 1F, 2B, *3B, 2F, 2B, 2F, 5B, 2F, (2B, 2F) x2, 2B*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

RS – ACF

138 MC – Ch3, 4F, *1B, (3F, 1B) x3, 1F, 2B, (3F, 1B) x2, 1F, 1B*, 4F, ES

139 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *(2F, 2B) x3, 5F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 3F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

140 MC – Ch3, 2B, 1F, 1B, *1F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x2, 2F, 1B, (1F, 3B) x3, 1F*, 1B, 1F, 2B, ES

141 AC – Ch3 in back, 3B, 1F, *26F*, 3B, EB

Divider section 6

RS – ACF

142 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 2F, *4F, 5B, 9F, 5B, 3F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, ES

143 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, 1B, 1F, *26F*, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

144 MC – Ch3, 4B, *1F, 9B, 5F, 9B, 2F*, 4B, ES

145 AC – Ch3 in back, (1B, 1F) x2, *26F*, 1B, 1F, 1B, EB

Piano Section in interlocking crochet; I added another divider section to the pattern here which will be visible in next week’s photo

See you next week for the next section of the pattern!

~*~*~*~*~ Or, begin here if you’re using the overlay mosaic technique! ~*~*~*~*~

Finished the piano section on my mosaic version of the MusicCAL (oops, made a mistake in the divider section)

Mosaic Crochet

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: black in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Technique

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Continue from last week:

Divider section 5

128 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

129 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

130 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

131 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

Piano section

132 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

133 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

134 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc7) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

135 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x4, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3*, (dc1, sc1) x5, ES

136 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

137 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

138 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

139 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x3*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

140 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

141 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x4, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, (dc1, sc1) x4, ES

Divider section 6

142 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, *(sc1, dc1) x4, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1*, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

143 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *(dc1, sc1) x26*, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

144 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, *sc5, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x8, dc1, sc2*, (sc1, dc1) x5, ES

145 – JS, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc1, sc1, *sc52*, sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

See you next week for the next portion of the pattern!


© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com