Center-Out Update of Heart Levels 40

If you have subscribed to my YouTube channel and have notifications turned on (you need to click on the little bell) then you’ll have noticed that I have a new video published!!

This pattern, Heart Levels 40, has now been updated to include center-out instructions for BOTH techniques (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet).

It’s always interesting to see what the Wrong Side (aka Back Side) of the interlocking pattern will look like. “Heart Levels” doesn’t have any hearts on the wrong side.

There are now 4 files in the Ravelry and Etsy listings: one for the original interlocking square, one for the original overlay mosaic crochet square (using the interlocking chart with dots and border lines), a NEW center-out version of the interlocking crochet square, and a NEW center-out overlay mosaic version of this square.

When you do the interlocking crochet version from the center-out you will have two unlocked layers until you get to round 5

The center-out mosaic version has been adjusted so there are no mesh dots or border lines. The original bottom-up mosaic version of this square still has those mesh dots.

The center-out version of the mosaic crochet square doesn’t have any tails to worry about, so that’s probably my favorite!

I have created full walk-thru videos for the center-out versions of this square. The videos are quite long but there are time stamps so you can just jump to whatever round you’re having troubles with.

YouTube Walk-Thru for the Center-Out version of “Heart Levels” using the overlay mosaic crochet technique. Part 1 of 2. Recorded live, video quality is less than stellar, I apologize.

YouTube Walk-Thru for the Center-Out version of “Heart Levels” using the overlay mosaic crochet technique. Part 2 of 2.

If you’d like to practice the center-out technique a bit more, maybe you’d prefer to start with my tutorial videos (each technique also has a PDF photo tutorial if you’d prefer):


Get the Pattern

If you’ve previously purchased this pattern or eBook on Ravelry, you’ll have an update in your library. If you bought the eBook on Etsy you’ll need to email me with your order number and I will email you the new files.

Namaste Mandala

This design began as a custom pattern for a yoga instructor. The meditative pose shown on this blanket is what I think of as a basic yoga pose but I have learned that there are a lot of nuances in yoga. I read a bit about chakras and mudras and spirituality and culture and although I find it slightly interesting I don’t think I’ll become a yoga master anytime soon.

“At the base level, namasté is a salutation of respect and reverence. A traditional Indian greeting, it literally translates to “I bow to you” (namah or namas, meaning bow, te meaning you).”

https://chopra.com/articles/learn-the-meaning-of-namaste

“Mudras are sacred hand movements that are used in yoga and meditation to deepen the practice”

https://www.yogajournal.com/practice/beginners/the-meaning-of-namaste/

~*~

Fun side note: the floral design behind the person will become it’s own pattern in a few weeks.

With permission, I inverted and adjusted the colors on Heather Passmore’s interlocking crochet sample just to show off some more color options for you.

I have heard a few requests/suggestions to create an entire series of yoga designs. There is so much symbolism in all of it and a lot of the imagery is quite beautiful. However, as of now I do not have plans to draw other poses.

When I drew this pattern I used black and white, and the person was drawn using the black. This is also how the charts appear, the dark grey (on the interlocking chart) and the blue (on the mosaic chart) correspond with the Main Color on the written instructions. Heather Passmore was the first tester to show me her project and it confused me at first because I expected the person to be the darker color! But she is not the only tester who chose to use white as the Main Color and I love seeing all the options!

While this pattern was in testing I saw so many patterns of this theme pop up, like knitted blankets and crocheted potholders. Another designer also contacted me because she has just started the testing phase of a similar design and she wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to be upset that our blankets were so similar. She wouldn’t have known they were similar except one of my testers also tests for her and alerted her about it. There’s been a lot more drama behind the scenes than either of us expected from crochet and she wanted to make sure we weren’t going to create more drama.

It sure was a breath of fresh air to hear kindness from Anke Wintermans and I am sure you are going to love her blanket when it comes out! It is definitely of the same theme, but not a copy and it was just luck that mine happens to be published first.

Thank you to my testers: CarolinevdB, Chantal Lariviere, Heather Passmore, Darquis Bushey of Just Duckie Crochet, and Nessa Miller.

This blanket is one of my larger patterns. If you feel the size is too large you can always use a smaller hook and thinner yarn but this won’t change how many stitches you make. A personal gauge swatch is the most accurate way to know how large your blanket will be.

If you use worsted weight (4 – medium) and meet gauge your blanket should be about 65″ square when you do the interlocking crochet method. Because overlay mosaic crochet is a different technique it creates a different gauge; your blanket should be about 69″ wide and 75″ tall if you meet the mosaic crochet gauge listed in the pattern.

The nice thing about blankets is that gauge is not extremely important. Just be aware that you may need more yarn if you use a looser tension than mine.

Get the Pattern

Use code “MAY2022” to get 30% off your purchase of my new pattern, Namaste Mandala, until 11:59 pm May 24, 2022. (Expired)

Code applicable on Etsy and Ravelry. On ravelry, this code will apply to your entire cart! (but you must include the “Namaste Mandala” pattern for it to apply)

**Check out my Facebook group for a chance to win a free copy! Draw to take place May 20** (expired)

Interlocking Crochet Details

  • Chart is 261 x 261
  • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
  • 65” x 65” / 166cm x 166cm
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (4800 – 5000 yards total)
    • Main color (MC) (the person) – 2400 yards plus 200 for optional border
    • Accent color (AC) – 2400 yards

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Details

  • Chart is 257 x 257
  • Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
  • 69” x 73” / 174cm x 187cm
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (6500 – 7300 yards)
    • Main color (black) – 3500 yards
    • Contrasting color (purple) – 3000 yards
    • Plus, optional envelope border – 800 yards

To choose colors, be aware that the person is the Main Color.

An image where the left half has dots showing the interlocking chart and the right side is solid like the mosaic chart is. The interlocking crochet and mosaic crochet patterns have slight differences in the patterns to account for the natural mesh dots.
The interlocking crochet and mosaic crochet patterns have slight differences in the patterns to account for the natural mesh dots.

Dream A Dream: Center-Out Crochet Square

Have you had a chance to bump up your crochet skills yet? My tutorial on crocheting from the Center-Out has been live for 2 weeks now. I have seen a few of the Tutorial Squares and I am eager to see what everyone plans to do with a square so small. I think I will have to design more of that size!

The tutorial and this pattern (and all my other patterns) come with written line-by-line instructions and charts for two techniques. Overlay Mosaic Crochet seems to be the most popular. Interlocking Crochet is fun too (and sometimes goes by other names, such as Locked Filet Mesh / LFM)!

This pattern here (called “Dream a Dream”) is a little bit larger than the tutorial square. But it is not an overwhelming size. Plus, to make it more accessible I have created a full video walk-thru for each technique!

9 squares makes a perfect toddler-sized blanket

You don’t NEED to buy the pattern in order to follow along with the video. You can view the Key for the Interlocking Crochet method or the Overlay Mosaic Crochet method here and each row is written on the screen on the video; the charts are only available in the paid PDF. I truly do appreciate each purchase of the PDF pattern!

This square is not a size that easily mixes and matches with my other patterns, but I am sure you will still love it! There are so many things you can do with a square!

The first thing I think of is blankets. You can crochet as many squares as you like and then join them together to make a blanket.

The beauty of this technique and these squares is that you can use any weight yarn (as long as the yarns used are similar to each other in weight) and then an appropriately sized hook.

Just make sure you always have good contrast between the Main Color yarn and the second yarn you use.

If one of your yarns is self-striping you need to make sure the contrast color contrasts well with ALL the colors in the striping yarn.

Pillows (or throw cushions) go well with blankets, especially when you can have a matching set!

Then there are always so many bag options. A simple, small bag with just two squares and a strap is quick to make. Or, using multiple squares, you can create a larger bag.

I’m attempting to create a cardigan from my squares. My toddler really liked it when I had the back panel done – she used it as a blanket for a day!

Get the Pattern

Grab the ad-free printable PDF (with charts) with a 30% discount until May 10, 2022! No code needed, valid on Ravelry and Etsy.

Interlocking Crochet Details

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Details

My Copyright Statement

KEY FOR INTERLOCKING / LOCKED FILET MESH / LFM CROCHET

AC = accent color (pink on chart / even-numbered rounds)

MC = main color (green on chart / odd-numbered rounds)

Back = the wrong side of your work

Front = the right side of your work (you never turn your work, so the right side is always facing you)

AC/MC to Back indicates you need to place the AC/MCyarn towards the BACK of your project

AC/MC to Front indicates you need to bring the AC/MC yarn towards the FRONT of your project

CROCHET STITCHES USED (US terminology)

BLO = use the back loop only

ch = chain: pull a loop of yarn through the loop on your hook

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops

MR = magic ring: lay yarn across front of index and middle fingers, loose end hanging down; wrap yarn over and behind fingers then back up the front of your hand; cross yarn over yarn towards your wrist and hold working end of yarn with pinkie finger; insert hook under yarn closest to fingertips, grab the other loop of yarn and pull a loop up (with a slight clockwise twist); chain 1 to hold it together. You will crochet over the side that has 2 strings and when you are done you can tighten the loose end. See my video tutorial or my photo tutorial at ashleeslint.com/magicring

sk = skip a stitch

SS = slip stitch: insert hook, pull a loop through everything on your hook

SPECIAL TERMS USED

Ch3 in Back/Front counts as your first dc and chain

C = Corner: chain 2 (when added to previous stitch that makes 3 chains between the double crochets in each corner)

B = double crochet (dc) behind the previous row, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front of the previous row, and chain 1

Join = SS to finish the round. This stitch goes into the 2nd chain of the first ch3 of the round, or it can be made into the first window space

INTERLOCKING CROCHET TECHNIQUE

You are creating two layers of mesh that happen to be worked around each other. Each color of yarn gets stitched into itself only. Each double crochet goes into the previous row’s double crochet. There is a chain space between each double crochet that doesn’t get worked into. You alternate using each color of yarn and thus can do the double crochet in front or behind the opposite color’s chain space (never yarn over in a way that it encloses that chain space on both sides). Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, just use a stitch marker to keep the live loop waiting. Detailed tutorial on this technique in PDF and YouTube video format can be found at https://ashleeslint.com/interlocking-crochet-tutorial-center-out/.

KEY FOR OVERLAY MOSAIC CROCHET

MC = Main Color: blue in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain: pull a loop through

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

MR = magic ring: place yarn across the front of your fingers with the tail hanging down, wrap yarn over and behind your fingers, cross yarn at the top of your hand towards your wrist, insert hook under first loop on the back of your hand and grab the second loop, pull the loop up and chain to keep it in place. View my video tutorial or photo tutorial online: AshleesLint.com/magicring

SPECIAL STITCHES (TAKE NOTE OF THE LOWER CASE VERSUS UPPER CASE WAY OF USING THESE):

sc = SC into Back Loop only

dc = dropped double crochet: DC into Front Loop of stitch in the round below, skip the sc stitch that gets hidden behind this dropped stitch

scC = single crochet corner: SC into Back Loop Only of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, SC into the same Back Loop again

dcC = double crochet corner: do a dropped DC into front loop of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, do another dropped DC into same front loop again. The next stitch, if it is a dc, will use this same front loop as well.

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Mosaic Technique when working from the CENTER-OUT

Technique tutorials: https://ashleeslint.com/overlay-mosaic-crochet-tutorial-center-out/

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Foundation round counts as round 0 – it is a magic ring with 8 single crochets in it; uses the MC
  • Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, carry it up through the corner stitch
  • Even-numbered rounds use MC; odd-numbered rounds use CC