You’re nearly done! Just a few more hours of crocheting left. This week we will add the cowl neck to the hood. Technically, you could crochet this false-ribbed cowl section without the hood. It’s quite basic.

If you’re just hearing about this project, you’ll want to return to the Introduction page, or maybe Part 1. The schedule and links to each section are just below.

---

Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl“. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!

---

Interlocking Crochet Pattern

To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

For yardage and other important details, click here.

In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. Part 2 was rows 30 – 58. Now that we have a hood we will create the cowl neck.

The Cowl

I chose to use my dark color for the cowl neck, but you can use the lighter color or a completely different color!

First, turn your hat upside down. We will join our yarn at any point around the neck of the hood EXCEPT where the sides meet at your chin.

Attaching to Hood

Create one round of double crochet stitches, join with a slip stitch.

You need to have an even number of DC stitches in this first round. If you need to adjust, make the cowl one stitch smaller than the hood.

Lengthening the Cowl

For the rest of the rounds, do *2 FPDC, 2 BPDC* all the way around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Front post stitches will have front post stitches attached to them. You are creating long ridges.

I did 14 rounds, but you can make the cowl any length.

Weave in any ends and you’re done! 

I prefer to wear mine with the cowl part up inside the hood, covering my chin and mouth, but you can also keep it down around your neck if that’s where you need the warmth.

#interlockingcrochet #WinterTreesHoodedCowl @AshleesLint

Congratulations! You’re done! Be sure to show off your project in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs, or tag me on Instagram!

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

---

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. In part 2 we finished the hood with rows 30 – 52. Now we will add the cowl neck.

The Cowl

I chose to use my dark color for the cowl, but you can use the lighter color or a completely different color!

First, turn your hat upside down. We will join our yarn at any point around the neck of the hood EXCEPT where the envelope border meets at your chin.

I have created a video for this step:

Attaching to Hood

Create one round of double crochet stitches, join with a slip stitch. You may find it difficult to determine which stitches to join to when you reach the envelope border brim that goes around your face.  If you did single crochet stitches for the envelope you will do one DC per round. If you did a double crochet envelope border, do two DCs per round.

I had 7 rounds of SC on my envelope border, so I did 7 DC across the envelope for the beginning of my cowl. I joined the two sides of the envelope border with one DC and then did 7 more DC on the envelope border at the other side of the face opening.

You need to have an even number of DC stitches in this first round. If you need to adjust, make the cowl one stitch smaller than the hood.

Lengthening the Cowl

For the rest of the rounds, do *2 FPDC, 2 BPDC* all the way around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Front post stitches will have front post stitches attached to them. You are creating long ridges.

I did 15 rounds, but you can make the cowl any length.

Weave in any ends and you’re done! 

I prefer to wear mine with the cowl part up inside the hood, covering my chin and mouth, but you can also keep it down around your neck if that’s where you need the warmth.

#mosaiccrochet #WinterTreesHoodedCowl @AshleesLint

Congratulations! You’re done! Be sure to show off your project in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs, or tag me on Instagram!

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

Get the Pattern

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.

---

For Interlocking Crochet

• Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
  • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
  • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
  • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

For Mosaic Crochet

• Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
  • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
  • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
  • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
  • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

This is our halfway point! That seems like a laughable statement since we just started last week. I’ve never done such a short CAL!

Part 1 was the first half of the hood. In part 2 we will finish the hood. Part 3 adds the cowl neck on.

If you’re just hearing about this project, you’ll want to return to the Introduction page, or maybe Part 1. The schedule and links to each section are just below.

---

Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl“. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!

---

Interlocking Crochet Pattern

To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

For yardage and other important details, click here.

In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. We will now continue at row 30.

RS – ACF

30 MC – Ch3, 1F, *4B, 7F, 5B, 4F, 5B*, 1F, ES

31 AC – Ch3 in front, *5F, 6B, 5F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 3F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

32 MC – Ch3, 1B, *3F, 7B, 5F, 5B, 5F*, 1B, ES

33 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *3B, 6F, 6B, 4F, 2B, 1F, 3B*, EB

RS – ACF

34 MC – Ch3, 1F, *2B, 2F, 1B, 4F, 7B, 5F, 4B*, 1F, ES

35 AC – Ch3 in front, *3F, 1B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 6F, 4B, 2F, 1B, 1F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

36 MC – Ch3, 1B, *1F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 6F, 7B, 4F*, 1B, ES

37 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *1B, 1F, 3B, 2F, 4B, 1F, 2B, 6F, 5B*, EB

RS – ACF

38 MC – Ch3, 1F, *5B, 5F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

39 AC – Ch3 in front, *1F, 1B, 4F, 4B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 6F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

40 MC – Ch3, 1B, *16F, 3B, 4F, 2B*, 1B, ES

41 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *16B, 2F, 5B, 1F, 1B*, EB

RS – ACF

42 MC – Ch3, 1F, *7B, 2F, 16B*, 1F, ES

43 AC – Ch3 in front, *8F, 1B, 16F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

44 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

45 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *6B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 7B*, EB

RS – ACF

46 MC – Ch3, 1F, *6B, 2F, 9B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

47 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 6F, 1B, 6F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

48 MC – Ch3, 1B, *13F, 2B, 7F, 2B, 1F*, 1B, ES

49 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *1B, 1F, 11B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 2B*, EB

RS – ACF

50 MC – Ch3, 1F, *22B, 2F, 1B*, 1F, ES

51 AC – Ch3 in front, *15F, 1B, 7F, 1B, 1F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

52 MC – Ch3, 1B, *9F, 2B, 14F*, 1B, ES

53 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *9B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 4B*, EB

RS – ACF

54 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 2F, 20B*, 1F, ES

55 AC – Ch3 in front, *4F, 1B, 20F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACFront

56 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

57 AC – Ch3 in front, *25F*, 1F, EF

Cut and tie off AC

RS

58 MC – Ch3, 1B, *26B, ES

I strongly suggest adding the revised SC Border now, but you may choose to use the simple SC Border or add no border at all.

SC Border

Chain 1, put 2 sc in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

Revised SC border

Chain 1, put 1 sc in the MC gap, and then the second sc should pick up one loop of the AC as well as going through the MC gap. Do this in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 on the corners.

Creating the Hood

Fold this rectangle in half and, using a whip stitch, sew the top together.

That’s it for now!

The cowl addition will be published in section 3 on November 7, 2022.

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

---

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. We will now continue at row 30.

30 MC – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc3, sc9, dc11, sc13, dc7*, ES

31 CC – JS, *sc4, dc3, sc3, dc7, sc15, dc9, sc9*, ES

32 MC – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc11, sc9, dc3, sc3, dc3*, ES

33 CC – JS, *sc8, dc9, sc1, dc3, sc13, dc5, sc5, dc3, sc3*, ES

34 MC – JS, *dc8, sc13, dc3, sc3, dc7, sc5, dc5, sc3, dc3*, ES

35 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc5, dc3, sc7, dc3, sc13*, ES

36 MC – JS, *sc3, dc7, sc9, dc5, sc3, dc7, sc3, dc13*, ES

37 CC – JS, *dc3, sc9, dc5, sc33*, ES

38 MC – JS, *sc3, dc9, sc5, dc33*, ES

39 CC – JS, *sc14, dc3, sc33*, ES

40 MC – JS, *dc14, sc3, dc33*, ES

41 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

42 MC – JS, *dc12, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc13*, ES

43 CC – JS, *sc12, dc3, sc19, dc3, sc13*, ES

44 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc7, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc11, sc3, dc13*, ES

45 CC – JS, *sc2, dc3, sc15, dc3, sc27*, ES

46 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc15, sc3, dc21, sc3, dc3*, ES

47 CC – JS, *sc44, dc3, sc3*, ES

48 MC – JS, *dc28, sc3, dc13, sc3, dc3*, ES

49 CC – JS, *sc28, dc3, sc19*, ES

50 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc19*, ES

51 CC – JS, *sc6, dc3, sc41*, ES

52 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc41*, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

Creating the Hood

Fold this rectangle in half and, using a whip stitch, sew the top together.

Time to add an envelope border

I suggest you use a single crochet stitch for this project. My YouTube tutorial shows double crochet stitches worked in a square around a blanket (https://youtu.be/P-uXHjwTFeE). This project is slightly differnt.

This video shows how I do an envelope border around one end of a project: https://youtu.be/VGah43YCxAw

I did 7 rounds of single crochet after my initial surface crochet round. You may prefer a wider brim – it’s all up to you!

That’s it for now!

The cowl addition will be published in section 3 on November 7, 2022.

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

Get the Pattern

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.

---

For Interlocking Crochet

• Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
  • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
  • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
  • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

For Mosaic Crochet

• Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
  • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
  • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
  • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
  • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

---

I announced this CAL (Crochet-A-Long) just a few days ago. This is my first CAL of the year! Last year I did a couple, so I couldn’t believe it when I realized it was already October and I hadn’t done any!

This is a smaller project than my other CALs have been; I usually do blankets. I wanted to give people the opportunity to get something done before the holidays get too busy.

The FREE pattern online will be published in 3 sections (see the schedule below). You also have the option of purchasing the FULL PATTERN and CHARTS on Ravelry or Etsy. The free online version does not include the charts.

Links to all my tutorials can be found in the menu bar or by going back to the introduction page.

---

Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!

---

Interlocking Crochet Pattern

The introduction teased you with the first 5 rows. I am repeating them here just to have everything all together. When I publish part 2 I will link back to this page for the KEY and yardage (hopefully by that time you won’t need to refer to them anymore anyway).

For yardage and other important details, click here.

KEY

AC = Accent Color. Second color used. The background / sky.
MC = Main Color. First color used. The trees.
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Front = the side currently facing you
Back = the side not facing you
Ch = chain
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
F = DC in front, then CH 1
B = DC behind, then CH 1
ES = DC into the last window space
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

• If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
• Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
• Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

KEY for the Cowl portion:

BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

Foundation Rows (54 MC stitches, 53 AC stitches)

STEP 1

Using MC (white in my sample, the trees) create 53 windows.

I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2^nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).

Alternatively, to create 53 windows you can chain 110, then DC in 5^th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.

STEP 2

With your AC (teal in my sample, the sky), chain 108. Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture BELOW). DC through the back of the next window into the 5^th chain from your hook.

STEP 3

Using your AC, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

Turn your work and continue at row 4.

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *2B, 1F, 14B, 3F, 5B*, EB

RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)

6 MC – Ch3, 1F, *2B, 3F, 14B, 3F, 3B*, 1F, ES

7 AC – Ch3 in front, *5B, 14F, 3B, 3F*, 1B, EF

WS – ACB

8 MC – Ch3, 1B, *1F, 2B, 3F, 4B, 15F*, 1B, ES

9 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *4F, 2B, 4F, 8B, 1F, 6B*, EB

RS – ACF

10 MC – Ch3, 1F, *6B, 3F, 5B, 1F, 9B, 1F*, 1F, ES

11 AC – Ch3 in front, *2B, 5F, 3B, 4F, 1B, 10F*, 1B, EF

WS – ACB

12 MC – Ch3, 1B, *12F, 4B, 5F, 3B, 1F*, 1B, ES

13 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *12B, 3F, 5B, 3F, 2B*, EB

RS – ACF

14 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1F, 3B, 4F, 4B, 13F*, 1F, ES

15 AC – Ch3 in front, *2B, 3F, 4B, 4F, 12B*, 1B, EF

WS – ACB

16 MC – Ch3, 1B, *11B, 1F, 5B, 4F, 4B*, 1B, ES

17 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, *10F, 2B, 13F*, EB

RS – ACF

18 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 10F, 6B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

19 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 9B, 4F, (1B, 2F) x2, 1B, 3F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

20 MC – Ch3, 1B, *3F, (2B, 1F) x2, (2B, 6F) x2*, 1B, ES

21 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *3B, 7F, 3B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 4B*, EB

RS – ACF

22 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 5F, 1B, 3F, 2B, 7F, 4B*, 1F, ES

23 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 1B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 6B, 4F*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

24 MC – Ch3, 1B, *5F, 5B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 7B, 1F, 2B, 1F*, 1B, ES

25 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *(1F, 2B, 6F, 2B) x2, 1F, 2B*, EB

RS – ACF

26 MC – Ch3, 1F, *5B, 5F, 6B, 6F, 1B, 2F*, 1F, ES

27 AC – Ch3 in front, *4F, 1B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 6B, 2F, 1B*, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

28 MC – Ch3, 1B, *4F, 6B, 3F, 2B, 1F, 3B, 1F, 2B, 3F*, 1B, ES

29 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *4B, 5F, 4B, 8F, 4B*, EB

Rows 30 – 58 (the end of the hood) will be published in section 2 on October 31, 2022.

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

---

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

If you began with the introduction you will have already seen the first 5 rows. I am repeating them here just to have everything all together. When I publish part 2 I will link back to this page for the KEY and yardage (hopefully by that time you won’t need to refer to them anymore anyway).

The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

KEY for Mosaic Crochet

MC = Main Color: first color used, white in my sample, the sky
CC = Contrasting Color: second color used, green in my sample, the trees
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
sc = SC into Back Loop only
FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
DC = double crochet
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

KEY for the Cowl portion

BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

Mosaic Crochet Technique

• Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
• The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
• You are always working from the right to the left
• You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
  • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
• Yarn colors can be anything you like. They need to contrast well and be the same weight (size / thickness)
• I prefer using a Foundation Single Crochet to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all my other rows will have
• Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) – this will be your background / sky

Use a foundation SC technique to create 102 FSC. Or chain 103, SC in 2^nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.

1 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

2 MC – JS, *dc4, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc7, dc23, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc5*, ES

3 CC – JS, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc29, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7*, ES

4 MC – JS, *sc9, dc21, (sc1, dc1) x3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, ES

5 CC – JS, *sc30, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, ES

6 MC – JS, *dc10, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc11, sc9, dc3, sc9, dc1*, ES

7 CC – JS, *sc12, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc1*, ES

8 MC – JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc5, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc3, dc19, sc2*, ES

9 CC – JS, *sc2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc25*, ES

10 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x12, dc1*, ES

11 CC – JS, *dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x13*, ES

12 MC – JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc26*, ES

13 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x11*, ES

14 MC – JS, *sc25, dc3, sc22*, ES

15 CC – JS, *sc2, (dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc13, dc3, sc13*, ES

16 MC – JS, *dc2, sc19, dc7, (sc3, dc3) x2, sc3, dc7*, ES

17 CC – JS, *sc12, dc3, sc13, (dc3, sc3) x2, dc3, sc7*, ES

18 MC – JS, *dc6, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc5, dc5, sc15, dc7*, ES

19 CC – JS, *sc6, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc5, dc13, sc9*, ES

20 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc13, dc9*, ES

21 CC – JS, *sc2, dc3, sc3, dc13, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc9, sc11*, ES

22 MC – JS, *dc2, (sc3, dc3, sc13, dc3) x2, sc3, dc1*, ES

23 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc13, dc11, sc3, dc3, sc1*, ES

24 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc7, sc13, dc3, sc3, dc1*, ES

25 CC – JS, *sc6, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc3, sc7, dc11, sc9*, ES

26 MC – JS, *dc6, sc17, dc7, sc11, dc9*, ES

27 CC – JS, *sc8, dc13, sc11, dc7, sc11*, ES

28 MC – JS, *dc8, sc13, dc9, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc7*, ES

29 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc11, dc9, sc1, dc3, sc7*, ES

Rows 30 – 52 (the end of the hood) will be published in section 2 on October 31, 2022.

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

Get the Pattern

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.

For Interlocking Crochet

• Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
  • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
  • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
  • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

For Mosaic Crochet

• Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
  • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
  • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
  • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
  • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

For me, a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) means everyone gets an opportunity to join in. This hooded cowl will be published for FREE on my website in three parts: the first half of the hood, the 2nd half of the hood, and then the cowl.

You also have the option of purchasing the FULL PATTERN and CHARTS on Ravelry or Etsy. The free online version will be released in stages and does not include the charts.

As per my usual, you will have the option of using the interlocking crochet technique or the overlay mosaic crochet technique. In my samples I have used a local hand-dyed alpaca yarn for my mosaic crochet version and some acrylic yarn for my interlocking crochet version.

I did a little promo on YouTube: https://youtu.be/vEjPwRzBo1k

I also switched the dark/light colors for fun. Do you prefer green trees or white trees?

When you use the interlocking crochet technique you’ll have a few more rows than the mosaic option because we need to lock the two layers of mesh together. Whichever color you start with will become the trees.

With the mosaic version, because we don’t need border lines, the first color you use will actually be the background color (the sky). I used white as the sky and as the envelope border but you could use the other color for your envelope border if you prefer.

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!

I also created a quick support video for the cowl portion of this project:

---

Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

If you’re new to my patterns or to one of these techniques let me go over some basics.

All of my patterns can be made using interlocking crochet (also called Locked Filet Mesh or LFM) or overlay mosaic crochet (that’s the technique where you cut at the end of each row).

Interlocking crochet is two layers of mesh that get created row by row and locked together strategically to show the design. Watch my tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oku_6_hN1w4&list=PLbdEDo49IQroC7Xoj6svR0J0i0HvJU1IM

Overlay mosaic crochet uses single crochet (US terms) in the back loop only and a dropped double crochet in the front loop two rows below to create the image. My tutorial: https://youtu.be/6YwXIqKqWjI

Old patterns and a select few of my new ones will have the exact same chart for both techniques. Most of my new patterns use a chart for mosaic crochet that has been adjusted to remove the unnecessary mesh dots and extra border lines – so the image is the same but technically the charts are different. I also have added X’s onto my mosaic charts that tell you when to do a dropped double crochet.

Regardless of whether the charts are the same or adjusted, the way you read the charts is different for each technique. I always include the written pattern for each technique as well as the charts. You can use one or the other, or both.

I personally prefer to use the written pattern for both techniques. Once I create the written instructions I generally don’t look at the chart again.

---

Interlocking Crochet Pattern

The hood is a rectangle that gets folded in half. It starts with 53 windows in the foundation trellis.

For yardage and other important details, click here.

KEY

AC = Accent Color. Second color used. The background / sky.
MC = Main Color. First color used. The trees.
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Front = the side currently facing you
Back = the side not facing you
Ch = chain
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
F = DC in front, then CH 1
B = DC behind, then CH 1
ES = DC into the last window space
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

• If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
• Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
• Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

KEY for the Cowl portion:

BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

Foundation Rows (54 MC stitches, 53 AC stitches)

STEP 1

Using MC (white in my sample, the trees) create 53 windows.

I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2^nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).

Alternatively, to create 53 windows you can chain 110, then DC in 5^th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.

STEP 2

With your AC (teal in my sample, the sky), chain 108. Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture BELOW). DC through the back of the next window into the 5^th chain from your hook.

STEP 3

Using your AC, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

Turn your work and continue at row 4.

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *2B, 1F, 14B, 3F, 5B*, EB

Row 6 will be published in section 1 on October 24, 2022.

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

---

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

This chart is slightly smaller than the interlocking crochet chart because the extra border lines (that are unnecessary with this technique) have been removed. The interlocking mesh dots have also been removed, so this is a ‘solid overlay mosaic crochet’ design.

The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

KEY for Mosaic Crochet

MC = Main Color: first color used, white in my sample, the sky
CC = Contrasting Color: second color used, green in my sample, the trees
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
sc = SC into Back Loop only
FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
DC = double crochet
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

KEY for the Cowl portion

BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

Mosaic Crochet Technique

• Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
• The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
• You are always working from the right to the left
• You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
  • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
• Yarn colors can be anything you like. They need to contrast well and be the same weight (size / thickness)
• I prefer using a Foundation Single Crochet to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all my other rows will have
• Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) – this will be your background / sky

Use a foundation SC technique to create 102 FSC. Or chain 103, SC in 2^nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.

1 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

2 MC – JS, *dc4, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc7, dc23, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc5*, ES

3 CC – JS, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc29, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7*, ES

4 MC – JS, *sc9, dc21, (sc1, dc1) x3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, ES

5 CC – JS, *sc30, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, ES

Continue with row 6 in Section 1 which will be published on October 24, 2022.

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

Get the Pattern

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.

---

For Interlocking Crochet

• Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
  • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
  • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
  • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

For Mosaic Crochet

• Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
• Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
• Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
• 5 mm hook (H-8)
• Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
  • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
  • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
  • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
  • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards