FATW6: Mosaic Coral Strip

Introduction

This is a pattern for an overlay mosaic crochet strip that belongs in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6) “Adventures in Mosaic Crochet” hosted by CAL – Crochet A Long. Links to all past and future patterns can be found on their blog: https://calcrochetalong.com and you can join their facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/668646249929007/

My section (this Mosaic Coral Strip) can be found here on the blog (scroll down) or downloaded on Ravelry: https://ravel.me/mosaic-coral-strip

Download on Ravelry

You can also crochet with my YouTube video to guide you! Please note: the video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row; see my other YouTube tutorial on creating a Mosaic Foundation: https://youtu.be/RqgmJQMaB7A for more information.

When I first designed this piece I didn’t know I would be the first section in the blanket. That’s why my Coral video mentions that you will be joining to a project you already have. But I have created a video on crocheting the foundation rows now!

Quick Bio

I published my first pattern less than a year ago (April 1, 2020) and, honestly, that was a dream come true! My grandmother taught me to crochet when I was about 8 years old, and it has been a favorite hobby of mine in an on-again-off-again kind of way. I finished my first blanket in high school and created a few projects over the years to fit my needs (how about a bag that fits this book exactly and nothing else).

Three years ago, I picked up my hooks in earnest again as a coping method after the traumatic delivery of my son. Crocheting – and now, pattern designing, too – are therapy for me. I am so grateful to everyone who has supported me and made it a little easier to stay at home with my 3 beautiful children.

I was also able to achieve another dream of mine in April 2021: I got published in a magazine! My Eiffel Tower Wall Hanging can be found in Crochet Now! Magazine, issue 68. I feel a little famous now!

The Coral Strip

I love how wiggly and intricate coral can look. It is almost abstract enough that if you didn’t know it was called “Coral” you might just think it was random lines.

My single repeat used 30 g of yarn (Medium 4 – worsted weight, acrylic). I used Caron Kindness in Tomato and Robin’s Egg Blue because it was what I had on hand. Unfortunately, this is a discontinued yarn. You can use any yarn medium (4) weight yarn. If you’d like some suggestions, try Yarnsub.com for a list of similar yarns.

Like the other patterns in this CAL, each repeat is 48 stitches wide. An extra stitch is added at the beginning of each row, and two extra stitches are added to the end. Each designer may have different ways of explaining things but all the pieces in this CAL are designed to work together!

My chart does not show those extra 3 stitches (the joining stitch, balancing stitch, and end stitch), it only shows the repeated section.

Chart is included in the ravelry download

If you share your works on Instagram, I would love for you to tag me: @AshleesLint

YouTube

I created a YouTube video to go with this pattern! You can see each stitch being done and crochet with me! Please note: the Coral video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row.

Foundation Row YouTube Video

Don’t forget to like and subscribe to my YouTube channel!

Mosaic Coral Strip YouTube Video

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 48 x 19, add 1 extra stitch at the beginning of each row and 2 extra stitches at the end of each row. Repeat is 48 + 3 stitches wide.
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • 18 g / 21 yards of Main Color (MC) = coral
  • 12 g / 30 yards of Contrasting Color (CC) = light blue
  • One repeat finishes at 10” x 4” / 26 x 10 cm
  • Gauge: 18 stitches x 18 rows = 4” / 10 cm

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: coral in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: light blue in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending (for this pattern only, add an extra balancing stitch at the end of each row before doing the “ES = end stitch”). You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below, front loop only. Skip the (pink) single crochet behind this dc.
sc = a single crochet in the body of this pattern goes into the back loop only
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Odd-numbered rows use MC (coral), even-numbered rows use CC (light blue)

Optional “Locked Double Crochet”

To prevent the small flaps on the back of your work, consider locking-in your stitch.

Begin like a dropped double crochet: skip the next stitch, and work into the Front Loop of the stitch in the row below; yarn over, insert hook into front loop below (see first image below), pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, insert hook into back loop of skipped stitch (see second image below), yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Time to start crocheting!

(There was an error with this blog but it has been fixed! I am so sorry! And majorly embarrassed 🙈)

Row 1 can be your foundation row OR you can add it to another section.

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

Foundation Row:

Row 1 MC – Can use a chainless single crochet foundation or you can chain the desired number of stitches, plus one for turning chain. Turn, skip turning chain, single crochet into each chain.

Repeats of 48 +3 = desired number of stitches

For example, if you want to repeat the design twice: (48 x 2) + 3 = 99 sc needed (chain 99 + 1 = 100, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 99)

Or, if you want to repeat the design three times: (48 x 3) + 3 = 147 sc needed (chain 147 + 1 = 148, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 147)

OR when added to another project:

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

1 MC – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

2 CC – JS, *sc48,* sc1, ES

3 MC – JS, *sc5, dc3, sc3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

4 CC – JS, *dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

5 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

6 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1,* sc1, ES

7 MC – JS, *sc1, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

8 CC – JS, *dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x4,* sc1, ES

9 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1,* sc1, ES

10 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc3,* sc1, ES

11 MC – JS, *(sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

12 CC – JS, *sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x4,* sc1, ES

13 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1,* sc1, ES

14 CC – JS, *dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

15 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc8,* sc1, ES

16 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc8,* sc1, ES

17 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc12,* sc1, ES

18 CC – JS, *dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc11, sc1, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc12,* sc1, ES

19 MC – JS, *sc31, dc1, sc16,* sc1, ES

20 CC – JS, *dc31, sc1, dc16,* sc1, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

Continue with the next FATW6 ocean-themed section!

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Chained Ponds Blanket and Pillow Set

A few weeks ago I published a blanket pattern called “Chained Ponds“. I also created a challenge: finish the blanket in 6 weeks and receive the pillow pattern for free! Three members of my Facebook group were able to complete the blanket in time and win their bonus pattern! Congratulations!

“Chained Ponds” blanket crocheted by danabouch

I planned on the pillow pattern retiring after the promotion. But, I am nothing if not flexible. Due to some suggestions and questions and feedback I have decided to list the pillow pattern after all.

On Ravelry: if you previously purchased the blanket pattern you will receive an automatic $1.50 CAD discount on this pillow pattern. Or, you can add them both to your cart now to receive the $1.50 discount. This discount doesn’t expire (ok, Ravelry requires that I put an expiry date, so I chose Dec 31, 2030, but when the time comes I will just extend that).

Buy the bundle on Ravelry now

For my Etsy users, the pillow pattern will be added to the same listing as the blanket. The price will go up slightly.

Buy the set on Etsy
Sew together two panels for a big pillow!
Ravelry listing for pillow
Ravelry listing for blanket

The pillow is really a 40-window square and can easily be added to other squares to create a blanket instead. See my list of other squares this size: www.ashleeslint.com/patterns#large

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Tropical Tree: Colorful Square in both techniques

I crocheted this palm tree square with a colorful background in both of my favorite techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet.

One of the things I love about interlocking crochet is that you get a fabulous image without using bobbins or tying and weaving in ends. I did a single crochet graphgan once (see it here), and although it is definitely beautiful to look at, the amount of work involved made it stressful at times.

The simplicity of a two-toned image without tangled yarn balls and 10 more hours of work after you’re “done” is one of the main benefits of my Locked Filet Mesh patterns (LFM = interlocking crochet).

But, I also love how colorful the mosaic patterns can be! Since you are cutting the yarn at the end and joining at the beginning of each row it is really easy to simply grab another color.

The biggest challenge is just to make sure the main color and accent color (or contrasting color) are not too similar. If the colors blend together too much you won’t see the image your yarn is trying to create.

All that being said, this pattern includes instructions on changing colors every few rows. It creates the beachy feel and I think it is worth the effort of weaving in tails (with interlocking crochet). The mosaic version can just use a nice envelope border like usual.

Tropical Tree on Ravelry

You can grab Tropical Tree on Ravelry. It is just a 20-window square and will join nicely with other 10-inch squares, like my flamingo! See my list of other patterns of this size here: www.ashleeslint.com/patterns#medium

As usual, the back looks striped when done with the overlay mosaic technique and has an almost reverse image when done using interlocking.

I don’t usually change colors with my interlocking patterns so I included a short explanation in the pattern.

I cut and tied off the first color and then joined my new color with a slip knot. More specifically, I put a slip knot on my hook, put it into the stitch I was just working with and pulled a loop up and through the slip knot to make its own slip stitch.

I kept my instagram feed up to date with my progress while crocheting 😉 check it out: instagram.com/ashleeslint

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Into the Ocean (Waves) Throw Blanket Crochet Pattern

Earlier I mentioned I was working on a pattern that was taking too long. Well, I finished it!

“Into the Ocean” is a swirling wave surrounded by a border of waves.

You can grab it on Ravelry for 30% off until 11:59 pm, February 20, 2021.

Or you can use Etsy. It is also 30% off there until 11:59 pm, February 20, 2021.

You may have seen a conversation in my Facebook group about the fees I have been paying on Etsy. I haven’t decided what my next step is but I will likely be changing how I offer patterns on Etsy. I don’t want to get rid of it altogether, but something does need to change.

Don’t forget to show off your creations! Find all my various social links here: linktr.ee/LFMandMosaic

Mockup of "Into the Ocean" blanket. Blue on blue swirling waves

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SWAK Blanket Pattern

I am not a fan of made up holidays… or deadlines. I fully intended on publishing this bundle of patterns by January 14 so that you would have a month before February 14 to get it done. It is already January 19, so I am behind schedule. Sorry, my bad.

The silly thing is that these patterns have been in my drafts list for a few months already! I just let too many other fun and exciting things get in the way of finishing the written instructions.

Plus, I don’t always have a crocheted picture to go with my patterns, and if I hadn’t insisted on crocheting this first then it definitely would have been published “on time”.

My little SWAK (Sealed With A Kiss) Blanket is only two panels by two panels. Each panel is a “40-window” square which works out to about 20″ when done with Worsted Weight yarn. You might want yours to be bigger if you use a lighter yarn or plan on doing some snuggling under it. Just make more panels!

P.S. thank you to my friend Kimberly Windsor-Johnson for helping me name it!

You can get the blanket instructions, including the patterns for the three different squares used, here on Ravelry or here on Etsy.

Continue reading “SWAK Blanket Pattern” →

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Hearts Shawl: Valentine’s Day 2021 Promotion

From now until February 14, 2021, you can get my Many Hearts Shawl pattern for $1 CAD! It is written up for interlocking crochet and mosaic crochet and also includes a chart. Plus, there are instructions for adding pockets.

But, wait! There’s more!

At the end of February, I will get my Facebook group to vote for their favorite project photo and the winner will receive a FREE pattern of their choice! Your project (a shawl with the “many hearts” design) doesn’t necessarily have to be completed to enter and you can use whichever crochet technique you prefer (interlocking or mosaic).

You may have already purchased the pattern (it is also available in the Hearts, Hearts, Hearts eBook) or perhaps you’re clever enough to extrapolate from my Tutorial Heart pattern (it’s ok if you need the pattern!).

Check out my tutorials, pick some great contrasting yarn, and let’s get hooking!

Interlocking Tutorial

Mosaic Tutorial

(Please note, I have another tutorial on the mosaic stitches that uses “sc/dc” like my current patterns are written. This old video does show the actual hearts pattern though.)

Fine print: you can send me your project photos through email if you are not part of my Facebook group and I can post them for you to be voted on. Or you can add them to my Ravelry group with the same set of permissions (that I download the image and allow my Facebook group to vote).

Voting will begin February 28 and close on March 1, 2021. The photo with the highest number of votes will win a free pattern of their choice (to be gifted on Ravelry or emailed directly).

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Alice’s Debut Pattern: Feline the Deer

If you’ve read any of my bio here or on Facebook you will know that I am a stay-at-home mom to three beautiful children!

Alice drawing on the chalkboard

My eldest, Alice, is 6 years old. She loves to color and draw and play with little figurines. She overheard me telling Dad that someone asked for me to draw a deer for my big 2020 Holiday Squares eBook.

Being the sweet child she is, she drew a deer for me to use! Although, you may notice, I also drew a deer for the eBook. She used the chalk board, and luckily I snapped a picture before the 3 year old wiped the slate clean!

Alice’s chalk drawing of a deer.

Many people in my facebook group encouraged me to create an actual pattern from her drawing, so I asked Alice if she would like that and of course, she did!

You would think there aren’t that many details in the chalk drawing, but you would be wrong.

I tried to create a 40-window square (which is a chart 81 x 81 like all the squares in my eBook) but Alice was not pleased at my inattention to detail.

I made the chart larger and we tried again. She made sure I got the ears on and corrected my “wiggly tail” to be “much straighter”. She also declared that her name was Feline and it should be written, “right here”. I suggested that we needed to add more decoration to make the image work as a crochet pattern.

She said, “ok, icicles”. And that is what you see at the top of the image now. I also added a few snowflakes to complete the picture and we were done! She wanted her to be pink, so, pink it is.

This chart is 121 x 121, which should come out to about 30″ square if you use worsted weight yarn (that’s a 4 – medium weight yarn on the Craft Council’s chart) and a 4.5 mm hook. This is a good size for a baby blanket or you can add a few more panels and create a larger blanket.

I have published this pattern on Ravelry and Etsy.

100% of the gross sales of this pattern will go to Alice. She currently wants to save up to buy a princess sled, a princess dress, and a princess bed.

I was also going to remind you all to sign up for my regular emails, now that the Abstract Queen CAL is done, but mailchimp is having issues so I have no link to give you.

I hope you all are doing lots of crocheting! Talk to you later!

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Abstract Queen CAL: Interlocking Part 15

December 8, 2020: Part 15 – Rows 337-358

Crocheted by Emily Harmon using the interlocking crochet technique

Wow! You did it! This is the final section!

I am in love with every blanket I have seen, and I just know yours is gorgeous too!

Thank you so much for participating in my 3rd CAL! These blog posts will remain free forever, and I am looking forward to years and years of new Abstract Queen blankets being made.

In the here and now (December 2020) I have been creating some new holiday squares. I mentioned them last week. This is the list of patterns on sale on Ravelry (use code “Holiday20” to get 20% off until Dec. 31, 2020):

I also have 2 new Holiday bundles on Etsy now. The first 5 new squares are in bundle 1, and the 2nd batch is in bundle 2. I will have at least a 3rd bundle (but not sure about a 4th bundle).

Go back to the main Abstract Queen landing page if you want to find the mosaic version or the list of dates of each release.

Subscribe to receive weekly updates by email!

The free parts on the blog do not include the chart, but you can purchase the pattern on Ravelry or Etsy, where you will receive the chart and instructions for both techniques in a nice printable PDF. I really appreciate the support!

Join my Ravelry group or Facebook group share your progress, no matter when you start!

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Interlocking Information

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 359 x 321 = 115,239 stitches!
  • Finished size 90” x 80” (Queen plus drape)
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (8250 yards)
    • Main color (black in chart) – 4100 yards plus 50 yards for optional SC border
    • Accent color – 4100 yards
  • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”

Key for Interlocking Crochet

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
WS = wrong side: the back of your project
Front = the side currently facing you
Back = the side not facing you
Ch = chain
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
F = DC in front, then CH 1
B = DC behind, then CH 1
ES = DC into the last window space
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

Notes

  • If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
  • Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
  • Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC
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I have repeated the final row from last week here – pay attention to what row you’re on!

WS – ACB

336 MC – Ch3, 1B, (1F, 1B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 1B, 15F, 1B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 3B) x4, 1F, 1B, 1F, 3B, ES

337 AC – Ch3 in back, {(1B, 1F) x5, (1B, 2F) x5, (1B, 1F) x5, 1B, 2F} x4, (1B, 1F) x3, EB

RS – ACF

338 MC – Ch3, 1F, 4B, {1F, (1B, 1F) x2, 7B, (1F, 1B) x2, (2F, 1B) x3, 2F, (1B, 1F) x2, 7B} x4, 2F, ES

339 AC – Ch3 in front, {1B, 1F, (1B, 2F) x3, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 18F, 1B, 2F} x4, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, EF

WS – ACB

340 MC – Ch3, 1B, {1F, 5B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, (2B, 1F) x4, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 3B} x4, 1F, 5B, ES

341 AC – Ch3 in back, {(1B, 1F) x4, 3B, 2F, (1B, 2F) x4, 3B, (1F, 1B) x4, 2F} x4, (1B, 1F) x3, EB

RS – ACF

342 MC – Ch3, 1F, 6B, 1F, 7B, {1F, 21B, (1F, 7B) x2} x3, 1F, 21B, 1F, 6B, 1F, ES

343 AC – Ch3 in front, {2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, (1F, 2B) x7, 1F, 1B} x4, 2F, (1B, 1F) x2, EF

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WS – ACB

344 MC – Ch3, 5B, {1F, (1B, 1F) x2, (2B, 1F) x6, (1B, 1F) x2, 11B} x4, 1F, 1B, ES

345 AC – Ch3 in back, {(1B, 1F) x3, 24B, (1F, 1B) x3, 2F} x4, (1B, 1F) x3, EB

RS – ACF

346 MC – Ch3, 2F, {(5B, 1F) x2, 2B, 1F, 1B, (2F, 1B) x2, 5F, 1B, (2F, 1B) x2, 1F, 2B, 1F} x4, 4B, 1F, ES

347 AC – Ch3 in front, 1F, {1B, 2F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 3F, (2B, 1F) x2, 2B, 4F, (2B, 1F) x2, 2B, 3F} x4, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, EF

WS – ACB

348 MC – Ch3, 3B, (1F, 1B, 12F, 3B, 12F, 1B, 1F, 7B) x4, (1F, 1B) x2, ES

349 AC – Ch3 in back, {1B, (1F, 1B) x2, (2F, 1B) x3, 2F, 4B, (2F, 1B) x4, (1F, 1B) x2, 2F} x4, 1B, (1F, 1B) x2, 1F, EB

RS – ACF

350 MC – Ch3, 2F, {1B, (1F, 3B) x2, (1F, 1B) x2, (2F, 1B) x2, 2F, 2B, 3F, 2B, (2F, 1B) x3, 1F} x4, 1B, 1F, 2B, 1F, ES

351 AC – Ch3 in front, 3F, (1B, 6F, 1B, 12F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 12F) x4, 1B, 2F, EF

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WS – ACB

352 MC – Ch3, 1B, {1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, (2B, 1F) x2, 3B, 2F, 1B, 2F, 3B, 1F, (2B, 1F) x2, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 3B} x4, 1F, 1B, 2F, 2B, ES

353 AC – Ch3 in back, {1B, 1F, 3B, (2F, 1B) x2, 2F, 3B, 4F, 3B, (2F, 1B) x2, 2F, 3B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, 3B, (2F, 1B) x2, 2F, 3B, 4F, 3B, (2F, 1B) x2, 2F, 3B, 1F, 1B, 2F} x2, 1B, 1F, 3B, 1F, EB

RS – ACF

354 MC – Ch3, 1F, 4B, {1F, (1B, 1F) x2, 13B, 2F, 3B, 2F, 13B} x4, 2F, ES

355 AC – Ch3 in front, 1B, 1F, 2B, {1F, 1B, 2F, 1B, 1F, (2B, 1F) x3, 4B, 6F, 4B, 1F, (2B, 1F) x2, 2B} x4, 1F, 1B, EF

WS – ACF*

356 MC – Ch3, (1B, 1F) x2, {(2B, 1F) x2, 1B, 5F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 1F, (2B, 1F) x2, (1B, 1F) x4} x4, 3B, ES

357 AC – Ch3 in front, 158F, EF

Cut and tie off AC

RS

358 MC – Ch3, 159B, ES

Cut and tie off, OR continue with border.

SC Border

Ch1, put 2 SC in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra ch2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

FINISHED!

Take a picture and share it!

@Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet

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Abstract Queen CAL: Mosaic Part 15

December 8, 2020: Part 15 – Rows 337-358

Nina Mayer’s finished blanket!

Wow! You did it! This is the final section!

I am in love with every blanket I have seen, and I just know yours is gorgeous too!

Thank you so much for participating in my 3rd CAL! These blog posts will remain free forever, and I am looking forward to years and years of new Abstract Queen blankets being made.

In the here and now (December 2020) I have been creating some new holiday squares. I mentioned them last week. This is the list of patterns on sale on Ravelry (use code “Holiday20” to get 20% off until Dec. 31, 2020):

I also have 2 new Holiday bundles on Etsy now. The first 5 new squares are in bundle 1, and the 2nd batch is in bundle 2. I will have at least a 3rd bundle (but not sure about a 4th bundle).

Go back to the main Abstract Queen landing page if you want to find the interlocking version or the list of dates of each release. Scroll down to find the pattern.

Subscribe to receive weekly updates by email!

The free parts on the blog do not include the chart, but you can purchase the pattern on Ravelry or Etsy, where you will receive the chart and instructions for both techniques. I really appreciate the support!

Join my Ravelry group or Facebook group share your progress, no matter when you start!

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Mosaic Key

MC = Main Color: black in chart
CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
sc = SC into Back Loop only
DC = double crochet
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

  • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
    • My charts use black as the Main Color and white as the Coordinating Color
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC
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Next part of the pattern begins here:

337 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x5, (dc1, sc5) x5, (dc1, sc3) x5} x4, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

338 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc9, {(dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc15, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc15} x4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

339 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, {(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x16, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3} x4, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, ES

340 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x5, {dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x4} x4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

341 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x4, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc5) x5, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x4} x4, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

342 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc15, {dc1, sc43, (dc1, sc15) x2} x3, dc1, sc43, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

343 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, {(dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc5) x7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1} x4, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

344 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, {(dc1, sc1) x10, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x6, (dc1, sc3) x2} x4, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, ES

345 – JS, sc1, {(dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1) x23} x4, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

346 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, {(dc1, sc11) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc5} x4, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

347 – JS, sc1, [{(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2} x2, (dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc5) x3, dc1, sc1] x4, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

348 – JS, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, {(dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc25, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc25, dc1, sc3} x4, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, ES

349 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, {dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc5) x4, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc5) x4, (dc1, sc3) x2} x4, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

350 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, {(dc1, sc7) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc3} x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

351 – JS, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc3, {(dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x10, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2, (dc1, sc1) x11, dc1, sc3} x4, (dc1, sc1) x3, ES

352 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, {dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3} x4, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

353 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, {dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc5) x3, (dc1, sc1) x2} x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, ES

354 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc9, {(dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc27, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc27} x4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, ES

355 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, {dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc5) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc5) x3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1} x4, ES

356 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc3) x5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, {dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc3) x4, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2} x3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

357 – JS, sc321, ES

358 – JS, dc1, sc319, dc1, ES

WOW! You made it! You did it!

Now, what to do with all those tails?

You can add an envelope border if you want, see my post about that here. Other options include taking a needle and weaving every tail in. Go under and through the same-colored yarn to hide them well. Or you could simply knot them and trim them to be the same size and leave a visible fringe. You can also make a few macrame knots and turn your fringe into something slightly fancier. I’ve even seen people add beads!

You’re FINISHED!

Take a picture and share it!

@Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet

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ashleebrotzell1 Comment

Among Us – turning a hat into a character

So, if you live under a rock, you may not have seen any of these “Among Us” toys, hats, etc. I admit, it took me longer than most to figure out why everyone kept using the phrase “sus”.

My bestie asked me to make her son a stuffy and a hat.

I *mostly* followed a pattern I found online for the little amigurumi guy. I couldn’t get the eye… goggle… face thing? I don’t know what it is, but mine wasn’t working so I had to free hand it a bit.

There are lots of free patterns out there, make sure you do use a FREE one because the creators of Among Us have been clear about their wishes: read about that here.

So, here is my little guy:

See his little wolf ears? Special request. I did 3 chains in a magic circle, then 2 single crochets in each stitch around (6). I then did one more round of sc. Flatten and sew on.

The pattern I followed made weird goggles so I kind if squished and shaped them into something I liked better.

Then I made a hat. A basic beanie.

For the matching wolf ears I had to do a lot more than 3 rounds lol

For these big wolf ears I started with 4 single crochets in a magic circle. Increase all the way around (that means put 2 sc in each stitch).

I didn’t join the rows, I was just working in rounds, so make sure you grab a stitch marker!

3rd round: repeat *sc, inc* (12)

4: repeat *2 sc, inc* (16)

5: repeat *inc, 3 sc* (20) (I moved the increase to avoid a spiral line)

6: repeat *4 sc, inc* (24)

7: repeat * 2 sc, inc, inc, 8 sc* (26)

8: repeat *inc, 12 sc* (28)

9 sc around. Cut and tie off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Flatten the cone into an ear. Make sure you curve it strongly. Use stitch markers to place both ears on the hat before sewing.

You want them to match up! And you don’t want to have to cut your work off and redo it.

The goggle part on the hat is a 2D item instead of 3D like on the little amigurumi.

To make an oval:

Chain 17, sc in 2nd from hook and across (16).

Don’t turn your work, sc in each stitch along the bottom of your work (+ 16, 32 for this round).

Round 3: increase (put 2 sc in the same stitch), sc x14, inc in both of the next 2 stitches, sc 14, inc.

Round 4: inc, inc, sc x 14, inc x 3, sc 14, inc. Cut and tie off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Give it a try!

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