Joining Crochet Squares, A YouTube Tutorial

If you’ve been following me for awhile you’ll know that I have a LOT of designs that are small and require you to join them to another square.

You can use them as wall hangings, pillows, bags, or blankets! There are lots of options out there for how to join them, but I have created a little video with some of my suggestions. Scroll down to watch it!

I specifically show how to join my interlocking squares and my overlay mosaic squares but you can definitely apply these joining methods to other things. And I didn’t invent any of these joins – so it’s possible that you have already heard of these methods! Check out the time stamps in the video description to jump to what interests you.

My main motivation in creating this video was to help those who have been crocheting each of my monthly squares. Last year it was gnomes, this year it’s cats.

All of my patterns come with charts and the written line-by-line pattern for two techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. The mosaic charts have X’s marking the dropped double crochets.

The interlocking crochet squares end with a suggestion to add an optional single crochet border. I did not add this border when I crocheted my cat squares (and I show how I join those squares in the video).

It gets a bit more complicated when you use the overlay mosaic crochet technique because when you cut your yarn each row you are left with fringe on both sides. I prefer to hide this fringe in an envelope border. Once the fringe is hidden you can join your squares without worry.

Take a look at more of my squares and other patterns:

Small squares (10″ using worsted weight yarn), chart size 41 x 41, 20-windows in the foundation row when using interlocking crochet:

Large Squares (20″ using worsted weight yarn), chart size 81 x 81, 40-windows in the foundation row when using interlocking crochet:


I’ve copied the automated subtitles here as a transcript of sorts, maybe it’s helpful, maybe not. There’s no punctuation but YouTube is very good at coming up with the words. I did have to edit my name because they spelled it wrong.

hi Ashlee Brotzell here let’s talk about joining squares a lot of my patterns are squares of various sizes I have tutorial squares that are teeny tiny I have small squares which are not really that small to be honest and I have large squares which do get quite large well let’s back up a bit there he is large squares are quite large anyway I also have blankets but right now we’re going to talk about squares mostly because of these cats I just finished we’re just finishing the year of cats and it’s 12 months one square a month all of my patterns are designed for interlocking crochet and overlay Mosaic crochet you get to choose which technique you prefer the interlocking crochet version is two layers of mesh so two layers of mesh and it makes these little dots that’s the interlocking crochet version and there’s also a mosaic crochet version some of my older Mosaic crochet patterns have the dots on the chart so when you’re doing it you just double crocheting and single crocheting and you can still see the dots and now I’ve been updating patterns to have them solid so that you can’t see all these dots in a solid area it doesn’t need to be there for this technique the cats because it’s a newer one there is only the two options there’s interlocking crochet like this or there’s the solid overlay Mosaic crochet it’s just the only option there is the real issue what we’re talking about today is once you’ve make all these squares what do you do with them how do you make them into a blanket interlocking crochet slightly more straightforward you simply join the squares Mosaic crochet I know this is a gnome I know I know this is a gnome Square from last year but it’s the same size as these ones and I don’t have the other cats here so Mosaic crochet you get all these little Fringe things on the edges makes it difficult if you’re going to join them you do have the option of weaving all these in that’s one option you could join your squares and hide it you could just hide these at the back so that the front would still look nice it’s not my favorite option either although I have seen some people do it and they talk about like red quilts how you get those have you ever done a rag quilt like it’s part of the process it’s part of the thing so that’s an option my preferred method is an envelope order now this one has the envelope border on all four sides that just makes the whole Square bigger you don’t actually need the envelope border on the top and the bottom though because there’s no fringe right so you could just put a border on the sides the part that has Fringe which will then make all of your squares rectangles not the end of the world they’re still going to be joinable so preference always crochet there are no rules you get to do what you want it’s your project what do you want it to look like how do you want it to feel that sort of thing I’m just going to give you options you get to decide when you finish your interlocking Square you have the option of putting a border around the edges and my adjusted border or whatever I’m calling it it’s in the pattern it locks the two layers together so I’m taking one string from this contrasting color as well as this and it’s locking it all together if you don’t lock it together you do get a little bit of a flap not a big deal in my opinion but some people don’t like it so that’s why options are available whether you have done a border like this one has the Border but it hasn’t picked up the flaps so you can see these are all single crochets or you can have the locked in borders so it’s still all single crochets but now there’s no flap the other option is that you don’t have any border at all you haven’t done single crochet border at all but you can still join these squares the black is my main color so I would still join the black to the black so if you keep watching I’ll go over that a little bit more so interlocking crochet is straightforward Mosaic crochet I suggest doing the envelope border first when you’re making the squares you can do the envelope border and close it up or if you know you have lots of squares to join and they’re all going in the same project you can leave the flaps open and then when you join them you can join the back flaps and the front flaps it gives it a slightly different texture that’s all so this one when you join it it will have a little it’ll be like a fluffy envelope border that’s joined as opposed to joining the two ends now depending on how fluffy your yarn is the differences are not going to be that extreme but those are the things that you’re going to want to think about when you’re deciding how to deal with these squares I always suggest these little Tails to weave those in first before you try to join things first thing to know is that it is easiest to join squares that are the same size because then you know that the edges are going to have the same number of stitches that’s the easiest method it is possible to join squares that have different sizes

first thing I would do is prepare all of my squares I would put if I knew that I was going to be doing these together I would put one envelope border along these edges so you could join these squares first at the part that doesn’t have Fringe and then when you’re doing your envelope border you just keep going all the way across you don’t have to cut the yarn which means there’s one seam here that you won’t have to worry about right so first join your squares together where they can be then do the envelope border that would be how I would do it for the cat squares for example when you join squares do you prefer to use a needle or a crochet hook there are pros and cons both techniques of course regardless of which technique you’re using you’re going to want to put your squares either both wrong sides together or both right sides together depending on what you’re doing make sure that the top is the top on both squares when you’re using a needle you need to pre-measure your yarn you don’t want it to be too long so you have to pull it through for every Stitch but you don’t want to run out either and I don’t like having to guess at how much yarn I’m going to need and the yarn gets Tangled when you’re pulling it through every Stitch so I’m not even really going to show this option I don’t think that using a needle and thread is great for joining squares first make sure you got some yarn make sure things are lined up corner to corner top corner to top corner of course I like to start with a slip knot but that is optional some people really don’t like the knots make sure that you go into the corner Stitch either your outer layer which for me is black here you can go into the outer layer only or you can pick up a loop of the purple which is like my accent color that inner layer because I have not added the border that single crochet border I haven’t added a basic border I haven’t added the adjusted border I like to lock in just the corners when I’m joining the squares it’s my preferred way once the corners are locked I don’t go into the accent color anymore just through the main color window which for me is black this is a single crochet join so I’m inserting my hook around both black on both squares then bringing up the loop around them both and then yarn over and pulling it through both loops on my hook creating the single crochet so go under both pull it up single crochet put two stitches in each window make sure going through the window on both squares the same Windows lining them up two stitches in each window which is basically what the Border you was supposed to be and if you don’t do the Border you just do it now when you’re joining the squares if you did do the Border then you’ll put your joining stitches just into those border stitches one stitch per one stitch you’d have already done two stitches in the windows I hope that makes sense for you so here I’m just putting two stitches into the window gaps all the way down

this is what it looks like when it’s done it is slightly raised you can feel the bump it’s a bit texturized and if you haven’t done the border that locks both layers in you could pull it apart and see through there not really a big deal for me another option is our slip stitch join sometimes called a flat braid join it will lie smoother than the single crochet join and it uses a little bit less yarn but it can feel awkward to pick up your yarn you want to make sure your yarn stays in the middle and you create a slip stitch on one square then the other Square back and forth back and forth but don’t forget that you need to make sure there are two stitches in each window still and it looks really nice when it’s done but the hurdle is just this awkwardness of getting your yarn that’s probably the hardest part about it and keeping track of your count because if you don’t have stitches if you haven’t done the Border like me you have to make sure that it’s two and two otherwise it won’t keep things lined up and your squares will start to get crooked so awkward to do harder to count for Me Maybe not so much for you but looks nice and uses less yarn so definitely a great option

just wanted to point out if you have two pieces that already have the border on them the single crochet border where you’ve put two stitches in every window then when you’re joining it you don’t need to worry about counting Windows you just do one stitch to one stitch and if you’re doing it this way I I still think that the slip stitch the flat braid is the best one and this is how you would do it if you don’t want to put the slip knot you’re gonna have to weave the tail in afterwards make sure it’s secure pick the back Loop and do your slip stitch and then if it’s laying down on the table it’s easiest for me the loop that’s on the table the back Loop if this is the front pick the back Loop that’s how you know which Loop to use and then you pull it through a slip stitch and you just do one stitch over here

one stitch over here you can use the full Stitch if you prefer if you don’t want to use just the back Loop but when you’re doing back Loops sometimes people get confused if you’re holding it like this and you’re like well which one’s back because I mean it’s the back Loop over here but technically over here it’s the one closest to you right it’s the loops that are touching and that is how I do it back and forth slip stitch over here going into the middle of it slip stitch over here if you want to join two Mosaic pieces that already have the envelope borders on them it’s similar to what we just did with the interlocking crochet squares where you’re just picking up one stitch over here and one stitch over here join them together it’s very thick Stitch

and I think that the slip stitch join the flat braid join is the nicest it’s my preferred so if you can find a back Loop or if if you’re not sure what to stitch to pick as long as it’s consistent so as long as you can find something that is consistent all the way across you’re like oh that bumped up then you can join them you can also pick two Loops if you’re having a hard time deciding which one is the right one now you can see I put it in up that is also not what I would do I would go down

sometimes when I’m looking at the piece I forget what I’m doing you know what I mean slip stitch this way down into the piece and pull up your slip stitch down into the piece and if your colors were better you wouldn’t see the join but mine is just hodgepodge squares so definitely the joint is going to be visible

and it feels awkward it’s one of those things that takes practice if you’ve been crocheting for a long time you might say oh this is awkward I don’t like it I won’t do it and you forget how awkward it used to be when you started crocheting it’s okay to do things that are new and uncomfortable give it a try it is also okay to Simply say no I don’t like that I won’t do it it’s your project it’s not going to hurt my feelings if you say I don’t like that join I just wanted to show off some options so if you have two pieces that you need to join this is an option if you use a different color you might not even see it the other option we got more you have squares that don’t have envelope borders that are sealed like we just did you can do open envelope borders where you’re joining the top layers and the bottom layers that are open it allows you to still hide everything in between and I would still use the same flat braid join where you’re going from the top down into your project picking up one slip stitch then you go into the back Loop over here pick up one slip stitch it still creates a nice join and your colors will either make it pop or hide it if it’s the same color as everything you won’t even really see it so those are good options if you’ve done an envelope border like this that goes around only two sides you don’t even have to cut your yarn you can just keep going around if you’ve done an envelope border that goes around four sides I would suggest making strips so you’d have two squares here and two squares here and you could just keep going and then afterwards you’d want to go across the top and of course you want to join the front and the back that’s how I do it that’s an extra step but worth it


Creating A Chart on YouTube Live

I just finished a live video on YouTube where I showed you how I create my charts!

I go over the interlocking crochet charts and the overlay mosaic crochet charts. I even show you the computer program I use.

I hope you will find it informative and helpful if you’re trying to create your own charts. And if you’d prefer to just buy ones that I design, that’s ok with me too! haha!

Honestly, I believe there is room in this world for everyone’s art! Everyone needs to be creative, just like we need food and air and water. Some people like to create with dirt and growing green things, others use canvas and paints; I use a computer and yarn.

This blog post does not have the same information as the YouTube video. I have simply added a few photos and a downloadable empty chart that you are free to use.

Interlocking Crochet

This is the chart I drew live. It is on a very tiny paper. The grid is 21 x 21 which makes it a 10-window square.

If you’d like to try designing your own, you can download this empty 20-window square. The border lines and the mesh dots are already on there. Technically there are other ways of doing the border lines that allows you to lock the layers together (or not, that is an option too!) but this is how I start all of my patterns. This chart size is 41 x 41. I cut it to get the small grid we used in the live video.

Remember, the mesh dots are not changeable. The white squares are where you can decide if it is going to be blue (the Main Color, the first color, the larger layer) or pink (the inner layer, the Accent Color). Each white square must be filled in – but in my mind they default to pink.

Obviously you can use any yarn color you want, this is just how I have my charts set up when I create a new design.

Using the Chart

After you’ve drawn the chart you’ll need to be able to read it. Please see my tutorials:

Overlay Mosaic Crochet

You don’t have to start with mesh dots on your chart if you’re doing overlay mosaic crochet. I start with the mesh dots because all of my patterns are for both techniques. I despeckle the chart for the mosaic version (older patterns were not despeckled) but you can also start fresh if you’d prefer. I drew this very exciting chart on the live video (that’s sarcasm).

You alternate colors for each row, and if you imagine the “blank canvas” as many rows of SC in BLO (Single Crochet in the Back Loop Only), you can then add a dropped DC (double crochet, US terms) to create the design. You cannot crochet your dropped DC into the other color’s DC. X’s go at the top of each DC.

This is a very basic explanation of how to create a chart, but if you get familiar with the stitches I think this is actually all the information you need! If it doesn’t make sense, don’t worry, maybe our brains just work a bit differently and someone else will explain it in a way that makes sense to you.

Try, try, try again!


Inevitably, someone will ask what program I use. It’s not a secret, I have mentioned it a few times. I prefer to use Winstitch. I started with graph paper and a pen, tried excel and Stitch Fiddle, but I am comfortable with Winstitch now and don’t want to learn any more programs.

Winstitch is a cross stitch program. It starts with a grid. I created a motif of the blue and pink dots that I use multiple times for every pattern. The computer program gives me the stitch counts – quick, and no human error! But the exported information is not what I’d consider usable for a pattern, so I created over 900 pages of Microsoft Word macros and I copy and paste the information from the Winstitch export into Word and then do a bunch of editing to make a pattern for sale.

Winstitch also does not “do” mosaic crochet. But I create a bunch of files and copy and paste things together to get the stitch counts. For my more recent patterns I adjust the charts to remove the mesh dots before creating the mosaic pattern.

If you’re going to try creating your own patterns for sale, please remember that you can’t use copyrighted or trademarked material. People expect to see a key or some sort of explanation as to how they are to use whatever information you are giving them. And page numbers plus the pattern name in the header can really help make your pattern more user-friendly.

A few months ago I offered my pattern keys to anyone. You can use them as a starting place and edit as you see fit. Copy and paste them from this post I wrote about Copyright. I would suggest you also include some sort of copyright statement in your patterns. Again, you can use my statement, just make sure you edit it to have your name instead of mine!

Dark Arrows Mosaic Crochet Pouch from YouTube

As promised on my last YouTube video ( I am putting up the stitch counts for the tube/pouch we created. We started this project on May 28, 2022 on a 2-hour YouTube live (

This live video was an experiment for me! I had never done a tube before. I have a lot of experience with various projects and techniques though, so I used my skills to create it as I went. It is not a perfect project tutorial video.

For this mosaic pouch I adjusted the “Dark Arrows” chart section from my Summer Direction CAL. My Summer Direction CAL is free on my website (the written pattern for both techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet), but the charts are only included in the paid download.

For this pouch, neither the free written part nor the charts are actually entirely helpful because I adjusted the chart as I crocheted for the YouTube live. I removed the interlocking mesh dots and the border lines.

My post here will include the stitch counts for each round that we did on the video, but for proper instruction on the technique please see the YouTube videos.

I used a small amount of worsted weight yarn and a 4.5 mm hook. I meant to use a 5 mm hook but the live had already started and that hook was not at my desk. Your hook size does affect the size and drape of your finished project. One of the crocheters who watched the live and commented a lot said they were using a thinner yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. As long as your hook and yarn weight are good for each other you can truly use any yarn you’d like.

The repeatable portion of the chart is 18 stitches wide. I skipped the first 3 border lines and the last 3 border lines. I also skipped a 4th stitch at the left side of the chart because it is a balancing stitch and is a duplicate of the 4th stitch at the right of the chart. This information is helpful if you’d like to make your pouch larger by using more of the Summer Direction CAL.

I planned on doing two repeats of the chart (one for the front of the bag and one for the back) but I decided that was too small so I stuck a third repeat in there.

We are creating a tube and we join at the end of each round and simply carry the yarn up, there’s no need to cut your yarn. For the first video I was using a joining method that involved locking my yarn in (just like I do when I do a center-out piece), but I found it was a bit bulky so I changed the joining method in the second video. When I do center-out crochet you can’t tell where the join was, so I was quite surprised to see that with the tube the join was noticeable.

I created a project on Ravelry and linked it to my Summer Direction Pattern. I wonder if I should be creating a new pattern listing instead?

Finished pouch!
I did not line my pouch. This will just be for the kids to play with. But someday I will learn how to do that step as well and really make my bags look professional!
Bag in use lol

Follow the Pattern

Quick KEY

CC = Contrasting Color (red in the video)
dc = double crochet; for overlay mosaic crochet all the double crochets go in the front loop, two rows below
fsc = foundation single crochet; see video
MC = Main Color (black/grey variegated in the video)
sc = single crochet; for overlay mosaic crochet all the single crochets go in the back loop only

Joining Technique

At the end of each round we must pick up the other yarn. Watch how I do it in the 2nd video (I think it looks better than the method I used in the first video). Basically, when you get to the end of the round, insert your hook into the back loop and pick up the other color, pull through both loops on your hook (do a slip stitch). Chain 1 and our next sc goes into the same spot. If you’re doing a dc you don’t need to chain 1.

Use a stitch marker to make sure you know where to join at the end of the next round.

Stitch counts

Foundation row (row 0), using MC; I was looking at row 25 on the chart: repeats of 18 fsc

Row 1 / 26 on the chart, using CC: sc18

Row 2 / 27 MC: sc18

Row 3 / 28 CC: sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7

Row 4 / 29 MC: sc9, dc1, sc8

Row 5 / 30 CC: sc8, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5

Row 6 / 31 MC: sc9, dc3, sc6

Row 7 / 32 CC: dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3

Row 8 / 33 MC: sc1, dc13, sc4

Row 9 / 34 CC: dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1

Row 10 / 35 MC: sc1, dc13, sc3, dc1

Row 11 / 36 CC: dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3

Row 12 / 37 MC: sc9, dc3, sc3, dc3

Row 13 / 38 CC: sc8, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5

Row 14 / 39 MC: dc8, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc5

Part 2 video starts here

Row 15 / 40 CC: sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7

Row 16 / 41 MC: dc8, sc5, dc6

Row 17 / 42 CC: sc8, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5

Row 18 / 43 MC: sc15, dc3

Row 19 / 44 CC: dc1, sc13, dc1, sc3

Row 20 / 45 MC: sc17, dc1

Row 21 / 46 CC: dc1, sc15, dc1, sc1

Row 22 / 47 MC: sc18

Repeat from row 1 if you’d like to make your pouch taller. Or use another pattern that has an 18 stitch count.

You now have a tube!

To create a purse / pouch you’ll need to sew the bottom of the tube together. I kept my joining seam at one side to hide it better and then did a mattress stitch join but you can do any kind of join you like. To do a mattress stitch join you flatten your tube, pick up one loop from the top and then one loop from the bottom and then pull the loop through. Then you pick up one loop from the top and pull it through. Then pull one loop from the bottom through. And repeat until you get to the end. This technique does take away some of the stretch but doesn’t use any extra yarn (until you want to fasten it off). To fasten it off you’ll need a tiny amount of yarn to make a knot through the last live loop on your hook AND make sure you tie it through another stitch as well.

I am adding a strap to my bag. I am using the Tunisian Simple Stitch. Watch that part of the video here:

I hope you enjoyed this live project! It is full of mistakes and candid Ashlee. I did notice that the quality is less that stellar so I may go back to an edited video for my next crochet pattern on YouTube. Let me know what you prefer.

Show me your projects in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs or tag me on Instagram @AshleesLint

Pattern Summary for May

I find it really strange that I have only published 3 patterns this month! In my first year of designing I averaged a new pattern every 2.5 days! It was an unsustainable pace, especially now that I have added the mosaic crochet option to all of my patterns.

However, it was not a slow month for me. I put a lot of focus on my YouTube channel (and have finally reached the level of being able to earn ad revenue on my channel)! I have been adding 130 different language subtitles to each video and have done about 30 of my 70 videos.

The first pattern I published this month was May Cat. If you had the eBook you got an update and didn’t have to purchase anything extra. The next cat square will be published on June 1.

Mosaic crochet version of “May Cat” crocheted by CarolinevdB

The next pattern I published was “Dream A Dream”. It is a center-out square and I created a full video walk-thru for both techniques. I started using my squares for a cardigan but haven’t finished yet.

In May I finished publishing a 4-part video series for the interlocking crochet version of “Sonic Screwdriver”. I haven’t decided which of my Doctor Who patterns to do next on YouTube.

I also put up a short tutorial showing how to add the sc border to an interlocking crochet project. And I created a support video for the interlocking crochet version of my newly updated repeatable “GoldieLux” pattern.

I turned my bulky-weight samples into a cardigan! It may be hot here today but it could snow again in 3 months so a cardigan is always a good project for me.

My third new pattern for this month was “Namaste Mandala”. It is such a peaceful design; I knew it would be well received. And, spoiler alert, the floral design in the corners will be it’s own pattern soon!

Beautiful sample crocheted by Just Duckie Crochet

I also did a live video tutorial using my newly updated Interlocking Crochet “Tutorial 10” pattern. This was the photo PDF I created 2 years ago, only I had some pretty embarrassing mistakes in it. It has now been updated and you can get your free PDF directly from my website and you can watch the first half of the square being crocheted on YouTube.

In summary, I was busy even though I only published 3 patterns this month. “Namaste Mandala” was my bestseller this month (no surprise there) and “Dream A Dream” did well too. Tied for third place, “Bubbles the Sea Turtle” and “Double Wedding Rings” were the surprising ones for me!

However, as I type this blog entry I have received a few more emails notifying me of purchases and they are all for “Double Wedding Rings”! Someone must have shared their work-in-progress on this WIP Wednesday, thank you for that!

I am nearly ready to get that pattern updated with the center-out instructions for each technique.

We also managed to plant a huge garden. So between watering the garden, normal household duties, and all my crochet projects, I didn’t notice how quickly May was speeding along! Thank you for everyone’s patience and I promise I will have more patterns soon!

Repeatable GoldieLux Pattern

I originally created this pattern in May of 2021.

A year has gone by, and I recently used the overlay mosaic version in a YouTube tutorial on how to read a chart with X’s (see here). While filming that video I realized that although I had originally designed this pattern to be the same size as my other 40-window squares (chart size of 81 x 81), the design could be extracted in an easily repeatable form and then you could make it any size you wanted!

So, that’s what I have finally checked off my list! The pattern now comes with four files:

  • Written pattern and chart for original 40-window square, interlocking crochet
  • Updated repeatable pattern and chart, interlocking crochet
  • Written pattern and chart for original square (chart 81 x 81), overlay mosaic crochet
  • Updated repeatable pattern and chart, overlay mosaic crochet

This pattern has now been featured in three of my YouTube videos:

Get the Pattern

The pattern has been updated on Ravelry and all four files are available to those who previously purchased.

This pattern was not previously available on Etsy. All 4 files are included in one listing.

Dream A Dream: Center-Out Crochet Square

Have you had a chance to bump up your crochet skills yet? My tutorial on crocheting from the Center-Out has been live for 2 weeks now. I have seen a few of the Tutorial Squares and I am eager to see what everyone plans to do with a square so small. I think I will have to design more of that size!

The tutorial and this pattern (and all my other patterns) come with written line-by-line instructions and charts for two techniques. Overlay Mosaic Crochet seems to be the most popular. Interlocking Crochet is fun too (and sometimes goes by other names, such as Locked Filet Mesh / LFM)!

This pattern here (called “Dream a Dream”) is a little bit larger than the tutorial square. But it is not an overwhelming size. Plus, to make it more accessible I have created a full video walk-thru for each technique!

9 squares makes a perfect toddler-sized blanket

You don’t NEED to buy the pattern in order to follow along with the video. You can view the Key for the Interlocking Crochet method or the Overlay Mosaic Crochet method here and each row is written on the screen on the video; the charts are only available in the paid PDF. I truly do appreciate each purchase of the PDF pattern!

This square is not a size that easily mixes and matches with my other patterns, but I am sure you will still love it! There are so many things you can do with a square!

The first thing I think of is blankets. You can crochet as many squares as you like and then join them together to make a blanket.

The beauty of this technique and these squares is that you can use any weight yarn (as long as the yarns used are similar to each other in weight) and then an appropriately sized hook.

Just make sure you always have good contrast between the Main Color yarn and the second yarn you use.

If one of your yarns is self-striping you need to make sure the contrast color contrasts well with ALL the colors in the striping yarn.

Pillows (or throw cushions) go well with blankets, especially when you can have a matching set!

Then there are always so many bag options. A simple, small bag with just two squares and a strap is quick to make. Or, using multiple squares, you can create a larger bag.

I’m attempting to create a cardigan from my squares. My toddler really liked it when I had the back panel done – she used it as a blanket for a day!

Get the Pattern

Grab the ad-free printable PDF (with charts) with a 30% discount until May 10, 2022! No code needed, valid on Ravelry and Etsy.

Interlocking Crochet Details

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Details

My Copyright Statement


AC = accent color (pink on chart / even-numbered rounds)

MC = main color (green on chart / odd-numbered rounds)

Back = the wrong side of your work

Front = the right side of your work (you never turn your work, so the right side is always facing you)

AC/MC to Back indicates you need to place the AC/MCyarn towards the BACK of your project

AC/MC to Front indicates you need to bring the AC/MC yarn towards the FRONT of your project


BLO = use the back loop only

ch = chain: pull a loop of yarn through the loop on your hook

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops

MR = magic ring: lay yarn across front of index and middle fingers, loose end hanging down; wrap yarn over and behind fingers then back up the front of your hand; cross yarn over yarn towards your wrist and hold working end of yarn with pinkie finger; insert hook under yarn closest to fingertips, grab the other loop of yarn and pull a loop up (with a slight clockwise twist); chain 1 to hold it together. You will crochet over the side that has 2 strings and when you are done you can tighten the loose end. See my video tutorial or my photo tutorial at

sk = skip a stitch

SS = slip stitch: insert hook, pull a loop through everything on your hook


Ch3 in Back/Front counts as your first dc and chain

C = Corner: chain 2 (when added to previous stitch that makes 3 chains between the double crochets in each corner)

B = double crochet (dc) behind the previous row, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front of the previous row, and chain 1

Join = SS to finish the round. This stitch goes into the 2nd chain of the first ch3 of the round, or it can be made into the first window space


You are creating two layers of mesh that happen to be worked around each other. Each color of yarn gets stitched into itself only. Each double crochet goes into the previous row’s double crochet. There is a chain space between each double crochet that doesn’t get worked into. You alternate using each color of yarn and thus can do the double crochet in front or behind the opposite color’s chain space (never yarn over in a way that it encloses that chain space on both sides). Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, just use a stitch marker to keep the live loop waiting. Detailed tutorial on this technique in PDF and YouTube video format can be found at


MC = Main Color: blue in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain: pull a loop through

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

MR = magic ring: place yarn across the front of your fingers with the tail hanging down, wrap yarn over and behind your fingers, cross yarn at the top of your hand towards your wrist, insert hook under first loop on the back of your hand and grab the second loop, pull the loop up and chain to keep it in place. View my video tutorial or photo tutorial online:


sc = SC into Back Loop only

dc = dropped double crochet: DC into Front Loop of stitch in the round below, skip the sc stitch that gets hidden behind this dropped stitch

scC = single crochet corner: SC into Back Loop Only of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, SC into the same Back Loop again

dcC = double crochet corner: do a dropped DC into front loop of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, do another dropped DC into same front loop again. The next stitch, if it is a dc, will use this same front loop as well.

Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc

Mosaic Technique when working from the CENTER-OUT

Technique tutorials:

  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Foundation round counts as round 0 – it is a magic ring with 8 single crochets in it; uses the MC
  • Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, carry it up through the corner stitch
  • Even-numbered rounds use MC; odd-numbered rounds use CC

New Addition to Sonic Screwdriver

Last year, I drew up a series of Doctor Who patterns. They were originally interlocking patterns but I did add the mosaic option shortly after.

At that time, I made a video walk-thru for my small Tardis square (Locked Filet Mesh / interlocking version). And I started making another video but then life got crazy and I was focused more on other things. But, a year later, I have finally finished the video walk-thru for Sonic Screwdriver!

They are all free because when I contacted the BBC about it they said I could share my patterns as long as they were free. Some of them are available to download on Ravelry, some of them are only available on my website or in my Facebook group.

I will keep updating as I can.

I have also started adding subtitles in over 80 languages to my YouTube videos! It isn’t hard, but it does take a lot of time.

My next pattern is nearly ready to release, there have been a few teasers shown by my testers 😉 so maybe you’ve seen it?

Teaser pic of next pattern

FATW6: Mosaic Sunglasses Strip


This is an overlay mosaic crochet strip that is part of the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6) “Adventures in Mosaic Crochet” hosted by CAL – Crochet A Long. Links to all past and future patterns can be found on their blog: and you can join their Facebook group:

My section (this pattern) can be found below and also as a download on Ravelry. You can also follow along with the video walk-thru on YouTube (scroll down for more details)! I’d love for you to join my Facebook group as well and show us how you used this Sunglasses design:

If you share your photos on Instagram I’d love for you to tag me @AshleesLint

Quick Bio

I have loved making so many new friends online through this past year as a new designer. One of the funny things about making friends online is how we get to choose what parts of ourselves we reveal. We usually go over the big general things first, like:

  • I’m Canadian, born and raised in Saskatchewan and have lived here for basically all of my life (minus 3 years)
  • I’m a stay-at-home mom to three amazing kids: Alice (7 as of yesterday!), Remington (4.5), and Melody (2 as of last week!)
  • My husband is a Mechanical Engineer which means he does a bunch of math and office work and problem-solving
  • I have a psychology degree (nearly a double major in sociology) and I dropped out of law school
  • I’ve been designing patterns for over a year now and I think it’s my forever-job!

If you met me in person, you might be surprised to see how boring I am:

  • I wear my hair in a ponytail/messy bun everyday
  • I don’t wear makeup (but I did buy some basics for fancy photos and YouTube videos)
  • I own one pair of heels and I don’t think I’ve worn them in the last 5 years
  • I have one pair of black canvas shoes that I wear everywhere (unless I take the kids to the spray park, and then I wear my water shoes)
  • I prefer to be barefoot – even in the winter I don’t often wear socks
  • I usually wear a pair of black yoga pants and a tank top; if it’s cold I put on my favorite cardigan
  • I have at least 6 sweaters that I never wear
  • I have peanut butter and honey on bread for breakfast every morning
  • I only drink water 90% of the time; sometimes I will have an iced cappuccino if we have a long car ride
  • I am a creature of routine and habit and definitely would not call myself adventurous
  • I am pretty bad at idle chit-chat
  • I would never wear sunglasses like the ones in this design

The Sunglasses

This is my second pattern in this group Crochet-A-Long. I had the privilege of being the first pattern in the Ocean-themed blanket with my Coral strip and now I get to finish things off with some cool sunglasses!

When I was invited to join this CAL I started thinking about how I now have friends around the world and yet, I am lonely. Between being a stay-at-home mom to little kids and moving to a new city when nearly everything is closed, I feel very isolated. It is also the middle of winter here in Saskatchewan, Canada (well, it was when I designed these – it is now the middle of summer; we are in a big heat wave!). I would love to meet up with my new friends and what better place to meet than a beach!? Hot sun, a bright beach ball, some cool sunglasses; let’s all go to my happy place, please!

I created my sample in bright colors but the great thing about your project is that you can use whichever colors you prefer! You can do one dark color and one light color or you can use a rainbow of colors as your contrasting color like I did. You can use any yarn medium (4) weight yarn.

Like the other patterns in this CAL, each repeat is 48 stitches wide. An extra stitch is added at the beginning of each row, and two extra stitches are added to the end. Each designer may have different ways of explaining things but all the pieces in this CAL are designed to work together!

My chart does not show those extra 3 stitches (the joining stitch, balancing stitch, and end stitch), it only shows the repeated section.


I created a YouTube video to go with this pattern! You can see each stitch being done and crochet with me! I also have tutorials on the overlay mosaic crochet technique and my other favorite technique, interlocking crochet!

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 48 x 19, add 1 extra stitch at the beginning of each row and 2 extra stitches at the end of each row. Repeat is 48 + 3 stitches wide.
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • 18 g of Main Color (MC)
    • 18 g Purple
  • 12 g of Contrasting Color (CC)
    • 5 g Tomato (CC1)
    • 4 g Robin’s Egg Blue (CC2)
    • 3 g Ray Yellow (CC3)
  • Gauge: 16 stitches x 16 rows = 4”

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: black in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending (for this pattern only, add an extra stitch at the end of each row before doing the “ES = end stitch”). You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below, front loop only. Skip the (pink) single crochet behind this dc.
sc = a single crochet in the body of this pattern goes into the back loop only
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Unlike my other patterns, there are no foundation row instructions, join to your previous work
  • For this pattern only: odd-numbered rows use MC (Dark purple), even-numbered rows use CC (a series of red, blue, and yellow)

Join to and continue from the previous FATW6 section.

Alternatively, if you need to create a foundation row and are starting a new project please see my video here or see how we did the foundation rows in the Mosaic Coral Strip.

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

1 MC (purple) – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

2 CC1 (red) – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

3 MCJS, *sc7, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc6*, sc1, ES

4 CC1 JS, *sc8, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc7*, sc1, ES

5 MCJS, *sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc4*, sc1, ES

6 CC1JS, *sc6, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc5*, sc1, ES

7 MC JS, *sc3, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, ES

8 CC2 (blue) – JS, *sc4, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc3*, sc1, ES

9 MC JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc2*, sc1, ES

10 CC2JS, *sc4, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc13, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3*, sc1, ES

11 MC JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x16, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, ES

12 CC2JS, *sc4, dc1, sc31, (dc1, sc3) x3*, sc1, ES

13 MCJS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x15, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, sc1, ES

14 CC3 (yellow) – JS, *sc4, dc1, sc29, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3*, sc1, ES

15 MCJS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x14, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, ES

16 CC3JS, *sc4, dc1, sc31, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc3*, sc1, ES

17 MCJS, *sc3, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x13, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, sc1, ES

18 CC3JS, *sc6, dc1, sc35, dc1, sc5*, sc1, ES

19 MCJS, *sc5, dc1, sc37, dc1, sc4*, sc1, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

If you’re mixing and matching things you may move on to a different section, but if you’re following the FATW6 CAL in order then you’ll need to go back to the host and get instructions on finishing it off! Congratulations, you’re done!

© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website

FATW6 CAL: Adventures in Mosaic Crochet – Ocean Theme

Good morning, Monday!

It has been so great seeing all the new projects getting started since Thursday when my Mosaic Coral Strip was released as the first section in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6)!

Mondays and Thursdays will be the release days of a new section – and today is Monday! Remember, all the pieces in this Crochet-A-Long have been designed by different people. The common theme is mosaic crochet and then 3 blankets were compiled from the submissions!

Each section is FREE. Some designers, like me, have included videos. I believe all the sections include a chart and written instructions, but I guess we will have to wait and see if that’s true.

This blog post of mine is going to be where I keep a list of all the sections as they are released. You can bookmark it if you like! You can also sign up for updates from the host: CAL Crochet A Long Facebook group

Also, please feel free to share your progress on this CAL in my Ashlee Brotzell Designs Facebook group. Normally, I don’t allow work by other designers but since this is a group collaboration I am making an exception – I want to see your progress! 🙂

I will link to the official CAL blog entry and you will have to scroll through their post to find the link to that section’s pattern (some are Ravelry downloads, some are on websites; different designers have different ways of doing things).

Friends Around The World: Adventures in Mosaic Crochet – Ocean theme

July 8, 2021: Mosaic Coral Strip by Ashlee Brotzell

Since this is my section I will also link to my blog entry about it and the ravelry download. Plus, my handy-dandy video walk-thru: Coral Strip on YouTube

July 12: Sally Starfish by Lynette Kosar of Lavender Cup Cottage

Look for the link to the ravelry download near the end of the article I linked to above.

July 15: Mosaic Crab by Suzanne Lively Boren

This one also has a link to ravelry near the end of the article.

July 19: Dancing Octopus by Suzanne Lively Boren

Find the ravelry link at the end of the blog article!

July 22: Mosaic Squid by Suzanne Lively Boren of Not So Boren Crochet

Suzanne was busy! This is another section she did!

July 26: The Goldfish 1 by Svetlana Rogatykh

This goldfish section also includes a tiny border design you can use at any point in your design! And the goldfish is pretty awesome! The link the to ravelry download is at the end of the article I have linked to above.

July 29: The Goldfish 2 by Svetlana Rogatykh

Svetlana’s second pattern in this Crochet-A-Long is swimming the other direction! Her Ravelry link is going at the end of the post linked to above.

August 2: Wave 1 by Svetlana Rogatykh

Another beautiful section from Svetlana!

August 5: Dolphin by Suzanne Boren of Not so Boren Crochet

You must be familiar with this designer by now! The official blog post from CAL has a direct link to her download, no Ravelry this time.

August 8: Wave 2 by Svetlana Rogatykh

Svetlana contributed so many designs to this CAL that you could actually create a full blanket with just her designs! You can get all of them in one file now.

August 12: My Anchors by Lana Ignjatovic of Loving Stitches Designs

In this CAL so far we have seen some repeated designers, but here’s a new one! This designer isn’t new to designing though; if you participated in the FATW5 CAL you may recognize her name. You can grab this anchor strip right from the official CAL blog linked above.

August 16: Dragorad’s Regatta designed by Lana Ignjatovic of Loving Stitches Designs

Another design from Lana here! It is hosted on the CAL blog so all you need to do is scroll to the end of their blog post and find the link to her pattern!

August 18, 2021: Sunglasses by Ashlee Brotzell

I have the privilege of being the final piece in this ocean-themed blanket! You can view the pattern on my blog or grab the free Ravelry download. And there’s a full walk-thru on YouTube!

After you finish crocheting these cool sunglasses, head back to the host blog and find instructions on finishing!

Blooming Owl Wall Hanging

My musical husband has a guitar strap on his classical wooden guitar with these floral motifs. Everytime I see it I think of an owl.

Obviously I couldn’t just draw it as it is, but I think I captured the idea of a flowery owl in my newest wall hanging: Blooming Owl.

My husband loves it!

I used fingering weight yarn. This is also called 4-ply or 8/4 depending on where you live. Craft Council lists it as a weight 1 – super fine and states it can also be called sock yarn.

The black yarn is “110 Jet Black” Scheepjes Catona. It is 100% mercerized cotton. The small balls are only 50 grams and have 125 metres of yarn. Scheepjes suggests a 2.5 – 3.5 mm needle (I believe that specifically refers to knitting needles). I used a 2.5 mm crochet hook.

I used a full 2 balls. There was barely anything left over (see photo below). So, make sure you match my gauge or grab an extra skein. If you’re going to grab an extra one you might as well grab two! 😉

The gold yarn is actually called “Copper” (oops, it is called “Ginger”). It is from SweetGeorgia Yarns’ Tough Love Sock Yarn line. We looked online at and I gave Mitch a few options. He said this color was “it” and he didn’t care that it was also the most expensive.

It comes in a twisted hank of 115 grams which gives you 425 yards of soft, silky wool. I only used half the skein.

It cost me $3.65 CAD per ball of Catona, so $7.30 total (but I did buy a 3rd ball just in case). The Tough Love Sock yarn was $33.95 but I only used half, so it cost me about $17 for this project. It felt really expensive to buy the fancy color Mitch wanted but it was so worth it because this is just beautiful to look at.

It was my first time using my fancy yarn swift! It is fun having toys! This is one of the more expensive things I own (related to yarn crafts). I don’t usually buy yarn that comes twisted because it just gets all tangled up. This was easy to set up and I turned the hank into a cake in a few short minutes!

The “Tough Love Sock Yarn” is 80% merino wool with 20% polyamide. Because it is a hand-dyed yarn it gives my finished piece a sort of mottled look where the dying process created slightly different shades in the yarn.

Like all of my patterns, this pattern is written for my two favorite techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. You can choose to use your favorite method or you can try something new!

I used the mosaic method because I wanted the fringe on the bottom and I wanted to use the strings at the top to attach the wooden dowel. I created a short YouTube tutorial with some tricks for attaching the dowel.

YouTube tutorial: Adding a Dowel

If you use interlocking crochet for your project you can add fringe to the bottom and whipstitch the dowel to the top. Instructions are included in the PDF pattern.

Both techniques work the design starting at the top-right corner going down to the bottom-right corner. I designed it to sideways because of the mosaic fringe.

The PDF includes written line-by-line instructions for both techniques and two charts; one is marked with x’s for overlay mosaic crochet. I haven’t created a YouTube video on how to use the x-marked charts yet. I have only just started updating my patterns to include a marked chart.

The other chart can be used for both techniques and I have tutorials on YouTube for that!

Grab your copy of my “Blooming Owl Wall Hanging” on Etsy or Ravelry and get 15% off your entire cart*!

*no code needed, offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, July 13, 2021.

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