It was quite the shock when I learned how inadequate the systems currently are for protecting a designer.

I wanted to create Doctor Who patterns. And I did a little bit of learning and emailing and was given the go-ahead to share as long as I was not going to profit from it. So, they are free patterns because I used someone else’s creation and they get to decide how their content is used.

And Then it Got Complicated…

Then there was an Instagram account who screenshotted one of my YouTube videos and posted it to her account with no mention of me. A friend found it and after filling out some forms it was taken down.

Now, I have come across someone who created a YouTube tutorial for one of her patterns which is actually mine. Sigh. Now I have to fill out forms and try to prove that this is my copyrighted work. It is time and energy I would rather devote elsewhere.

— A day later: YouTube decided there was no copyright content (see screenshot above). The video link goes to a “private” video now, and I can’t see her channel at all. So did she get taken down? Or is she just accepting private subscriptions to her stolen designs? —

Copyright Violations are Frequent

Multiple websites are out there selling patterns they do not own the rights to! Often times the designers have no idea it’s there, but sometimes we know it exists and can do nothing to stop it.

Many people do not intend to be harmful (but ignorance can still cause damage). I think a lot of people just don’t know what the rules really are.

Here in Canada, we have this: https://cb-cda.gc.ca/en/copyright-information/acts-and-regulations/copyright-act

Going forward I will be adding the following statement to all my patterns. It does apply to all previous patterns as well. It has always applied, I am just writing it out in detail for those who seem to be confused as to whether they can use someone else’s work (short answer: no).

I attach this page to all of my patterns.

I appreciate all the feedback I received in my Facebook group when I was trying to come up with the best statement. You guys are awesome!

I give permission to anyone to use the above copyright statement for their own works (obviously, change it to your name and adjust details as necessary).

I also have no issue with someone using the same abbreviations as I use for my patterns. Things like “sc = single crochet” are widely accepted but it seems some people are scared to accidentally infringe on things that could be considered a designer’s special way of describing things.

Please, do not just copy and paste my entire pattern templates and keys. But DO feel free to copy and paste the following abbreviations/definitions if they apply!

OVERLAY MOSAIC CROCHET KEY (US TERMINOLOGY)

Technique tutorial: Mosaic Crochet Stitch Tutorial

Pay special attention to the way I use uppercase and lowercase in my Key – this is not “typical” in regular crochet patterns!

MC = Main Color (refer to specific pattern to know what color this will be on the chart)

CC = Contrasting Color

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, *pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending. You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Dropped Double Crochet

dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below

The single crochet behind the dropped double crochet does not get used.

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Single Crochet in Back Loop Only

sc = a single crochet in the body of the pattern is going into the Back Loop Only

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Technique

• The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
• You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
• You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
  • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
• Yarn colors can be anything you like
  • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
  • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
• I prefer using a foundation SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Chart Key

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Chart Key

For patterns that are designed to be repeated, sometimes my key looks like this:

Technique tutorials: https://ashleeslint.com/overlay-mosaic-crochet-tutorial-center-out/

MC = Main Color (refer to specific pattern to know what color this will be on the chart)

CC = Contrasting Color:

ch = chain: pull a loop through

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

MR = magic ring: place yarn across the front of your fingers with the tail hanging down, wrap yarn over and behind your fingers, cross yarn at the top of your hand towards your wrist, insert hook under first loop on the back of your hand and grab the second loop, pull the loop up and chain to keep it in place. View my video tutorial or photo tutorial online: AshleesLint.com/magicring

Magic Ring

Creating a magic ring: hook inserted under first string to pull up a loop using the second string.

This technique is used in amigurumi a lot but can also be used for center-out granny squares! Both my interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet patterns start with a magic ring when done from the center-out.

sc = SC into Back Loop only

dc = dropped double crochet: DC into Front Loop of stitch in the round below, skip the sc stitch that gets hidden behind this dropped stitch

scC = single crochet corner: SC into Back Loop Only of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, SC into the same Back Loop again

dcC = double crochet corner: do a dropped DC into front loop of previous round’s corner chain, chain 1, do another dropped DC into same front loop again. The next stitch, if it is a dc, will use this same front loop as well.

Technique tutorials: https://ashleeslint.com/overlay-mosaic-crochet-tutorial-center-out/

• The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
• Yarn colors can be anything you like
  • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
  • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
• Foundation round counts as round 0 – it is a magic ring with 8 single crochets in it
• Do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, carry it up through the corner stitch

Center-Out Overlay Mosaic Crochet Chart Key

Depending on which pattern you are doing, the charts and keys will look a little different. I evolve as a person and gain experience with every pattern and so sometimes things have to change.

INTERLOCKING CROCHET KEY (US TERMINOLOGY)

Latest video showing interlocking crochet: https://youtu.be/_3So3Pe8GWc

AC = accent color (refer to specific pattern to know which color refers to which part of the design)

MC = main color (usually first color used)

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

WS = wrong side: the back of your project

Back = the side currently not facing you

Front = the side currently facing you

ch = chain

sk = skip a stitch

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

Interlocking Crochet Chart Key

I need to update a lot of old patterns that are using an older style chart. My new style has easier numbering and this key applies well.

This key may not make much sense when applied to an older pattern.

Technique tutorial: https://youtu.be/7W0OmcZwfrM

AC = accent color (pink on chart / even-numbered rounds)

MC = main color (green on chart / odd-numbered rounds)

Back = the wrong side of your work

Front = the right side of your work (you never turn your work, so the right side is always facing you)

AC/MC to Back indicates you need to place the AC/MCyarn towards the BACK of your project

AC/MC to Front indicates you need to bring the AC/MC yarn towards the FRONT of your project

BLO = use the back loop only

ch = chain: pull a loop of yarn through the loop on your hook

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops

MR = magic ring: lay yarn across front of index and middle fingers, loose end hanging down; wrap yarn over and behind fingers then back up the front of your hand; cross yarn over yarn towards your wrist and hold working end of yarn with pinkie finger; insert hook under yarn closest to fingertips, grab the other loop of yarn and pull a loop up (with a slight clockwise twist); chain 1 to hold it together. You will crochet over the side that has 2 strings and when you are done you can tighten the loose end. See my video tutorial or my photo tutorial at ashleeslint.com/magicring

sk = skip a stitch

SS = slip stitch: insert hook, pull a loop through everything on your hook

Magic Ring

Creating a magic ring: hook inserted under first string to pull up a loop using the second string.

This technique is used in amigurumi a lot but can also be used for center-out granny squares! Both my interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet patterns start with a magic ring when done from the center-out.

Ch3 in Back/Front counts as your first dc and chain

C = Corner: chain 2 (when added to previous stitch that makes 3 chains between the double crochets in each corner)

B = double crochet (dc) behind the previous row, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front of the previous row, and chain 1

Join = SS to finish the round. This stitch goes into the 2^nd chain of the first ch3 of the round, or it can be made into the first window space

Center-Out Overlay Mosaic Crochet Chart Key

Depending on which pattern you are doing, the charts and keys will look a little different. I evolve as a person and gain experience with every pattern and so sometimes things have to change.

I have more PDFs and videos listed on my tutorial page. The most frequently used one is probably for brackets. I’ve started adding the following statement to my patterns (but it needs to be added to a lot of the older patterns as well)!

About the use of brackets: https://ashleeslint.com/2020/08/29/brackets-in-crochet-patterns/

Please see all my tutorials here: https://ashleeslint.com/tutorials

A final note, thank you for all the encouragement! It surprised me how badly I felt after this most recent YouTube ordeal. I was shocked at how strongly I wanted to just throw everything away and quit. It really hurts to see your work being stolen, and how does someone protect themself from that again? Hide the work, don’t share anymore patterns, don’t put yourself out there for potential pain again.

But I LOVE designing! And I love showing off my new designs and hearing how much people love them. It is really encouraging to hear that I have supporters. Thank you, seriously. Thank you!