Joining 13 Squares for a Bag
A Bag from Small Squares
One of my favorite ways to use my small crocheted squares is to turn them into a tote bag. There are many layouts that can create a bag; this option uses each square turned on it’s point (like a diamond).
For this bag I used my Center-Out Tutorial Square pattern. I used the interlocking crochet technique for all 13 of the squares.
How many squares do you have?
For this bag I used 13 identical squares.
Check out one of my previous tutorials (with a video!) where I used only 10 squares and alternated the colors.
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13 Squares in this Bag
This tutorial uses 13 small squares to create the bag.
Mix and match some designs (of the same size) or play with colors to create a bag that’s truly one-of-a-kind to represent YOU!
The squares I’ve used are each about 4″ / 10cm.
Small Squares
You can create a tote bag of any size by varying the size of your squares and how many squares you use.
I love using my small squares because they are quick individual projects and they don’t make the bag too large.
It doesn’t really matter which colorwork technique you use. Interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet both create pretty little squares. HOWEVER, if you choose to use mosaic crochet I suggest working from the center-out so you don’t have tiny cut ends to deal with.
I’ve listed some of my patterns as options below, but there are a ton of squares out there that could be used to make a bag!
Center-Out Tutorial Square, Interlocking Crochet
This is the square I’ve used in this bag. It’s available as a free pattern and has a full step-by-step video tutorial as well!
Center-Out Tutorial Square, Overlay Mosaic Crochet
This is the mosaic crochet version of the square I’ve used in the bag for this tutorial. Like the interlocking crochet version, this is available as a free pattern and has a full step-by-step video tutorial!
Wave 10
This small square is the same size as the center-out squares I just shared but this one is done from the bottom-up, not the center-out.
Because of this, I’d recommend only using the interlocking crochet version of this design.
YouTube: February Knot Bonus Mini-Square
I used this square in a smaller bag (see other tutorial). The mosaic crochet option is worked from the center-out and you can follow this step-by-step video for free!
Tutorial 10
This little square is another free pattern that works up to the same size as my other small squares.
Once again, I recommend using the interlocking crochet technique so as to avoid the cut ends that are created when you use the overlay mosaic crochet technique.
Tutorial Hearts 10
This small square is also the same size as the other squares I have listed here.
I’d recommend only using the interlocking crochet version of this design to avoid the cut ends on the sides.
Join Squares Together
Using this graphic as a guide, join your squares together. If you’d like a more detailed process, just scroll down a bit to the ‘order instructions’.
As this is step 1 of the joining process you’ll ignore the fold instructions for now.
Not a Bag?
You’ll notice that this step doesn’t create a bag. It creates a flat piece that will be folded into a bag shape in the next step.
I use stitch markers to help me make sure things are going to be in the right place.
What Kind of Join?
I prefer to use a flat braid join but you can also use a BLO single crochet or whatever technique you’re most familiar with.
Order Instructions
I like to make my join as long as possible without cutting the yarn so that there are less ends to weave in.
I would start at the intersection where squares 1 and 2 are meeting at the corners.
Red Arrows
I’d first join squares 1 and 3 together then I’d turn the corner and join squares 3 and 4 together. Then, without cutting the yarn, I’d continue and join squares 5 and 6 together.
Then I’d turn another corner (still not cutting the yarn) and join squares 6 and 8 together. Then 7 and 10, then 9 and 12.
You can now cut your yarn OR crochet along the sides of squares 12 and 13 (which will be the opening of your bag) and then join squares following the opposite path of what you had just done.
Orange Arrows
Join squares 13 and 11, then 8 and 10, then 6 and 7. Don’t cut yet, just turn the corner and join square 6 to 4 and square 5 to 3. We’ll turn the corner on square 3 and join square 2 and then we will cut the yarn.
Continue Below
You now have a strangely shaped flat piece. Continue with the second part of the joining instructions to create a bag.
Fold and Join Some More
The joining step above doesn’t create a bag-shape.
We must now fold the bag in half along square 6. Then we can finish joining the squares.
Green Arrows
Follow the green arrows on the graphic.
Join square 1 to square 9 (the 9 is upside down on this graphic because the bottom part has been flipped up). Then join square 9 to square 4. Squares 4 and 7 are not next to each other in this image but they ARE beside each other in your actual project and you will join them together now.
Then we re-create this green join on the other side. Join squares 2 and 11, then 11 and 5, and finally 5 and 8.
Bag shape: complete!
You should now have a bucket-shaped bag that is in need of some handles.
Bag Handles
If you want to get really fancy you can purchase handles and attach them to your bag but I tend to stick with crocheting my handles.
I currently prefer to use a Tunisian Simple Stitch for handles but a few rows of single crochet would work as well.
Length
It’s very easy to adjust the length when making straps for bags.
One of the biggest things to remember is that your strap is likely to STRETCH so don’t make the handles too long.
Your choice of material and the stitch you use will greatly affect just how much stretching the handle will do.
Join to Yellow Dots
You will need two straps of equal length for this bag. Join one strap to the top two yellow dots in the first graphic and the other strap to the bottom two yellow dots.
Tunisian Simple Stitch
You don’t need a fancy hook when you’re only doing a few stitches! Tunisian Simple Stitch is a fun technique for a bag strap.
I-Cord Bag Straps
I-Cord handles can work if you like a small, thin strap without too much stretch. This technique is not my favorite because it’s fiddly to do. Using my little machine helps but I still prefer a thicker strap for most of my projects.