FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; Part 3

You’re nearly done! Just a few more hours of crocheting left. This week we will add the cowl neck to the hood. Technically, you could crochet this false-ribbed cowl section without the hood. It’s quite basic.

If you’re just hearing about this project, you’ll want to return to the Introduction page, or maybe Part 1. The schedule and links to each section are just below.


Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl“. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!


Interlocking Crochet Pattern

To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

For yardage and other important details, click here.

In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. Part 2 was rows 30 – 58. Now that we have a hood we will create the cowl neck.

The Cowl

I chose to use my dark color for the cowl neck, but you can use the lighter color or a completely different color!

First, turn your hat upside down. We will join our yarn at any point around the neck of the hood EXCEPT where the sides meet at your chin.

Attaching to Hood

Create one round of double crochet stitches, join with a slip stitch.

You need to have an even number of DC stitches in this first round. If you need to adjust, make the cowl one stitch smaller than the hood.

Lengthening the Cowl

For the rest of the rounds, do *2 FPDC, 2 BPDC* all the way around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Front post stitches will have front post stitches attached to them. You are creating long ridges.

I did 14 rounds, but you can make the cowl any length.

Weave in any ends and you’re done! 

I prefer to wear mine with the cowl part up inside the hood, covering my chin and mouth, but you can also keep it down around your neck if that’s where you need the warmth.

#interlockingcrochet #WinterTreesHoodedCowl @AshleesLint

Congratulations! You’re done! Be sure to show off your project in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs, or tag me on Instagram!

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. In part 2 we finished the hood with rows 30 – 52. Now we will add the cowl neck.

The Cowl

I chose to use my dark color for the cowl, but you can use the lighter color or a completely different color!

First, turn your hat upside down. We will join our yarn at any point around the neck of the hood EXCEPT where the envelope border meets at your chin.

I have created a video for this step:

Attaching to Hood

Create one round of double crochet stitches, join with a slip stitch. You may find it difficult to determine which stitches to join to when you reach the envelope border brim that goes around your face.  If you did single crochet stitches for the envelope you will do one DC per round. If you did a double crochet envelope border, do two DCs per round.

I had 7 rounds of SC on my envelope border, so I did 7 DC across the envelope for the beginning of my cowl. I joined the two sides of the envelope border with one DC and then did 7 more DC on the envelope border at the other side of the face opening.

You need to have an even number of DC stitches in this first round. If you need to adjust, make the cowl one stitch smaller than the hood.

Lengthening the Cowl

For the rest of the rounds, do *2 FPDC, 2 BPDC* all the way around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Front post stitches will have front post stitches attached to them. You are creating long ridges.

I did 15 rounds, but you can make the cowl any length.

Weave in any ends and you’re done! 

I prefer to wear mine with the cowl part up inside the hood, covering my chin and mouth, but you can also keep it down around your neck if that’s where you need the warmth.

#mosaiccrochet #WinterTreesHoodedCowl @AshleesLint

Congratulations! You’re done! Be sure to show off your project in my Facebook group: Ashlee Brotzell Designs, or tag me on Instagram!

Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

Get the Pattern

For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.


For Interlocking Crochet

  • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
  • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
  • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
    • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
    • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
    • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

    For Mosaic Crochet

    • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
      • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
      • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
      • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
      • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

    FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; Part 2

    This is our halfway point! That seems like a laughable statement since we just started last week. I’ve never done such a short CAL!

    Part 1 was the first half of the hood. In part 2 we will finish the hood. Part 3 adds the cowl neck on.

    If you’re just hearing about this project, you’ll want to return to the Introduction page, or maybe Part 1. The schedule and links to each section are just below.


    Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

    I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl“. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

    Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!


    Interlocking Crochet Pattern

    To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

    For yardage and other important details, click here.

    In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. We will now continue at row 30.

    RS – ACF

    30 MC – Ch3, 1F, *4B, 7F, 5B, 4F, 5B*, 1F, ES

    31 AC – Ch3 in front, *5F, 6B, 5F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 3F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    32 MC – Ch3, 1B, *3F, 7B, 5F, 5B, 5F*, 1B, ES

    33 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *3B, 6F, 6B, 4F, 2B, 1F, 3B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    34 MC – Ch3, 1F, *2B, 2F, 1B, 4F, 7B, 5F, 4B*, 1F, ES

    35 AC – Ch3 in front, *3F, 1B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 6F, 4B, 2F, 1B, 1F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    36 MC – Ch3, 1B, *1F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 6F, 7B, 4F*, 1B, ES

    37 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *1B, 1F, 3B, 2F, 4B, 1F, 2B, 6F, 5B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    38 MC – Ch3, 1F, *5B, 5F, 2B, 2F, 3B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

    39 AC – Ch3 in front, *1F, 1B, 4F, 4B, 3F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 6F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    40 MC – Ch3, 1B, *16F, 3B, 4F, 2B*, 1B, ES

    41 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *16B, 2F, 5B, 1F, 1B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    42 MC – Ch3, 1F, *7B, 2F, 16B*, 1F, ES

    43 AC – Ch3 in front, *8F, 1B, 16F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    44 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

    45 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *6B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 7B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    46 MC – Ch3, 1F, *6B, 2F, 9B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

    47 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 1B, 4F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 6F, 1B, 6F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    48 MC – Ch3, 1B, *13F, 2B, 7F, 2B, 1F*, 1B, ES

    49 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *1B, 1F, 11B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 2B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    50 MC – Ch3, 1F, *22B, 2F, 1B*, 1F, ES

    51 AC – Ch3 in front, *15F, 1B, 7F, 1B, 1F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    52 MC – Ch3, 1B, *9F, 2B, 14F*, 1B, ES

    53 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *9B, 1F, 10B, 1F, 4B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    54 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 2F, 20B*, 1F, ES

    55 AC – Ch3 in front, *4F, 1B, 20F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACFront

    56 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

    57 AC – Ch3 in front, *25F*, 1F, EF

    Cut and tie off AC

    RS

    58 MC – Ch3, 1B, *26B, ES

    I strongly suggest adding the revised SC Border now, but you may choose to use the simple SC Border or add no border at all.

    SC Border

    Chain 1, put 2 sc in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

    Revised SC border

    Chain 1, put 1 sc in the MC gap, and then the second sc should pick up one loop of the AC as well as going through the MC gap. Do this in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra chain 2 on the corners.

    Creating the Hood

    Fold this rectangle in half and, using a whip stitch, sew the top together.

    That’s it for now!

    The cowl addition will be published in section 3 on November 7, 2022.

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


    Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

    The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

    To refresh yourself on the KEY, click here.

    View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

    In part 1 we did the foundation rows up to row 29. We will now continue at row 30.

    30 MC – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc3, sc9, dc11, sc13, dc7*, ES

    31 CC – JS, *sc4, dc3, sc3, dc7, sc15, dc9, sc9*, ES

    32 MC – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc11, sc9, dc3, sc3, dc3*, ES

    33 CC – JS, *sc8, dc9, sc1, dc3, sc13, dc5, sc5, dc3, sc3*, ES

    34 MC – JS, *dc8, sc13, dc3, sc3, dc7, sc5, dc5, sc3, dc3*, ES

    35 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc5, dc3, sc7, dc3, sc13*, ES

    36 MC – JS, *sc3, dc7, sc9, dc5, sc3, dc7, sc3, dc13*, ES

    37 CC – JS, *dc3, sc9, dc5, sc33*, ES

    38 MC – JS, *sc3, dc9, sc5, dc33*, ES

    39 CC – JS, *sc14, dc3, sc33*, ES

    40 MC – JS, *dc14, sc3, dc33*, ES

    41 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

    42 MC – JS, *dc12, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc13*, ES

    43 CC – JS, *sc12, dc3, sc19, dc3, sc13*, ES

    44 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc7, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc11, sc3, dc13*, ES

    45 CC – JS, *sc2, dc3, sc15, dc3, sc27*, ES

    46 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc15, sc3, dc21, sc3, dc3*, ES

    47 CC – JS, *sc44, dc3, sc3*, ES

    48 MC – JS, *dc28, sc3, dc13, sc3, dc3*, ES

    49 CC – JS, *sc28, dc3, sc19*, ES

    50 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc19*, ES

    51 CC – JS, *sc6, dc3, sc41*, ES

    52 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc41*, ES

    Trim the fringe, if needed.

    Creating the Hood

    Fold this rectangle in half and, using a whip stitch, sew the top together.

    Hood has been sewn at the top bu there’s still work to do!

    Time to add an envelope border

    I suggest you use a single crochet stitch for this project. My YouTube tutorial shows double crochet stitches worked in a square around a blanket (https://youtu.be/P-uXHjwTFeE). This project is slightly differnt.

    This video shows how I do an envelope border around one end of a project: https://youtu.be/VGah43YCxAw

    I did 7 rounds of single crochet after my initial surface crochet round. You may prefer a wider brim – it’s all up to you!

    That’s it for now!

    The cowl addition will be published in section 3 on November 7, 2022.

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

    Get the Pattern

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.


    For Interlocking Crochet

    • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
      • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
      • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
      • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

    For Mosaic Crochet

    • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
      • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
      • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
      • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
      • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

    FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; Part 1

    I announced this CAL (Crochet-A-Long) just a few days ago. This is my first CAL of the year! Last year I did a couple, so I couldn’t believe it when I realized it was already October and I hadn’t done any!

    This is a smaller project than my other CALs have been; I usually do blankets. I wanted to give people the opportunity to get something done before the holidays get too busy.

    The FREE pattern online will be published in 3 sections (see the schedule below). You also have the option of purchasing the FULL PATTERN and CHARTS on Ravelry or Etsy. The free online version does not include the charts.

    Links to all my tutorials can be found in the menu bar or by going back to the introduction page.


    Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

    I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

    Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!


    Interlocking Crochet Pattern

    The introduction teased you with the first 5 rows. I am repeating them here just to have everything all together. When I publish part 2 I will link back to this page for the KEY and yardage (hopefully by that time you won’t need to refer to them anymore anyway).

    For yardage and other important details, click here.

    KEY

    AC = Accent Color. Second color used. The background / sky.
    MC = Main Color. First color used. The trees.
    RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
    WS = wrong side: the back of your project
    Front = the side currently facing you
    Back = the side not facing you
    Ch = chain
    Sp = space
    Sk = skip a stitch
    SC = single crochet
    DC = double crochet
    F = DC in front, then CH 1
    B = DC behind, then CH 1
    ES = DC into the last window space
    EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
    EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
    ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
    ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

    • If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
    • Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
    • Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

    KEY for the Cowl portion:

    BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

    FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

    Foundation Rows (54 MC stitches, 53 AC stitches)

    STEP 1

    Using MC (white in my sample, the trees) create 53 windows.

    I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).

    Alternatively, to create 53 windows you can chain 110, then DC in 5th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.

    STEP 2

    With your AC (teal in my sample, the sky), chain 108. Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture BELOW). DC through the back of the next window into the 5th chain from your hook.

    Short sample showing how to put the gold AC tail through the dark purple MC trellis

    STEP 3

    Using your AC, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

    Turn your work and continue at row 4.

    WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

    4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

    5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *2B, 1F, 14B, 3F, 5B*, EB

    RS – ACF (right side facing you, AC to front)

    6 MC – Ch3, 1F, *2B, 3F, 14B, 3F, 3B*, 1F, ES

    7 AC – Ch3 in front, *5B, 14F, 3B, 3F*, 1B, EF

    WS – ACB

    8 MC – Ch3, 1B, *1F, 2B, 3F, 4B, 15F*, 1B, ES

    9 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *4F, 2B, 4F, 8B, 1F, 6B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    10 MC – Ch3, 1F, *6B, 3F, 5B, 1F, 9B, 1F*, 1F, ES

    11 AC – Ch3 in front, *2B, 5F, 3B, 4F, 1B, 10F*, 1B, EF

    WS – ACB

    12 MC – Ch3, 1B, *12F, 4B, 5F, 3B, 1F*, 1B, ES

    13 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *12B, 3F, 5B, 3F, 2B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    14 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1F, 3B, 4F, 4B, 13F*, 1F, ES

    15 AC – Ch3 in front, *2B, 3F, 4B, 4F, 12B*, 1B, EF

    WS – ACB

    16 MC – Ch3, 1B, *11B, 1F, 5B, 4F, 4B*, 1B, ES

    17 AC – Ch3 in back, 1F, *10F, 2B, 13F*, EB

    RS – ACF

    18 MC – Ch3, 1F, *1B, 10F, 6B, 2F, 6B*, 1F, ES

    19 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 9B, 4F, (1B, 2F) x2, 1B, 3F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    20 MC – Ch3, 1B, *3F, (2B, 1F) x2, (2B, 6F) x2*, 1B, ES

    21 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *3B, 7F, 3B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 4B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    22 MC – Ch3, 1F, *3B, 5F, 1B, 3F, 2B, 7F, 4B*, 1F, ES

    23 AC – Ch3 in front, *2F, 1B, 1F, 8B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 6B, 4F*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    24 MC – Ch3, 1B, *5F, 5B, 1F, 2B, 1F, 7B, 1F, 2B, 1F*, 1B, ES

    25 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *(1F, 2B, 6F, 2B) x2, 1F, 2B*, EB

    RS – ACF

    26 MC – Ch3, 1F, *5B, 5F, 6B, 6F, 1B, 2F*, 1F, ES

    27 AC – Ch3 in front, *4F, 1B, 1F, 4B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 6B, 2F, 1B*, 1F, EF

    WS – ACB

    28 MC – Ch3, 1B, *4F, 6B, 3F, 2B, 1F, 3B, 1F, 2B, 3F*, 1B, ES

    29 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *4B, 5F, 4B, 8F, 4B*, EB

    Rows 30 – 58 (the end of the hood) will be published in section 2 on October 31, 2022.

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


    Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

    If you began with the introduction you will have already seen the first 5 rows. I am repeating them here just to have everything all together. When I publish part 2 I will link back to this page for the KEY and yardage (hopefully by that time you won’t need to refer to them anymore anyway).

    The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

    View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

    KEY for Mosaic Crochet

    MC = Main Color: first color used, white in my sample, the sky
    CC = Contrasting Color: second color used, green in my sample, the trees
    Sp = space
    Sk = skip a stitch
    CH = chain
    SC = single crochet
    sc = SC into Back Loop only
    FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
    DC = double crochet
    dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
    JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
    ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

    KEY for the Cowl portion

    BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

    FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

    Mosaic Crochet Technique

    • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
    • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
    • You are always working from the right to the left
    • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
      • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
    • Yarn colors can be anything you like. They need to contrast well and be the same weight (size / thickness)
    • I prefer using a Foundation Single Crochet to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all my other rows will have
    • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

    Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) – this will be your background / sky

    Use a foundation SC technique to create 102 FSC. Or chain 103, SC in 2nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

    Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

    Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.

    1 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

    2 MC – JS, *dc4, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc7, dc23, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc5*, ES

    3 CC – JS, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc29, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7*, ES

    4 MC – JS, *sc9, dc21, (sc1, dc1) x3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, ES

    5 CC – JS, *sc30, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, ES

    6 MC – JS, *dc10, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc11, sc9, dc3, sc9, dc1*, ES

    7 CC – JS, *sc12, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc1*, ES

    8 MC – JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc5, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc3, dc19, sc2*, ES

    9 CC – JS, *sc2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc11, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc25*, ES

    10 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x12, dc1*, ES

    11 CC – JS, *dc1, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x13*, ES

    12 MC – JS, *sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc26*, ES

    13 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc9, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x11*, ES

    14 MC – JS, *sc25, dc3, sc22*, ES

    15 CC – JS, *sc2, (dc1, sc1) x9, dc1, sc13, dc3, sc13*, ES

    16 MC – JS, *dc2, sc19, dc7, (sc3, dc3) x2, sc3, dc7*, ES

    17 CC – JS, *sc12, dc3, sc13, (dc3, sc3) x2, dc3, sc7*, ES

    18 MC – JS, *dc6, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc5, dc5, sc15, dc7*, ES

    19 CC – JS, *sc6, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc5, dc13, sc9*, ES

    20 MC – JS, *dc2, sc3, dc1, sc17, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc13, dc9*, ES

    21 CC – JS, *sc2, dc3, sc3, dc13, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc9, sc11*, ES

    22 MC – JS, *dc2, (sc3, dc3, sc13, dc3) x2, sc3, dc1*, ES

    23 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc13, dc11, sc3, dc3, sc1*, ES

    24 MC – JS, *dc6, sc3, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc7, sc13, dc3, sc3, dc1*, ES

    25 CC – JS, *sc6, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc3, sc7, dc11, sc9*, ES

    26 MC – JS, *dc6, sc17, dc7, sc11, dc9*, ES

    27 CC – JS, *sc8, dc13, sc11, dc7, sc11*, ES

    28 MC – JS, *dc8, sc13, dc9, sc9, dc1, sc3, dc7*, ES

    29 CC – JS, *sc10, dc9, sc11, dc9, sc1, dc3, sc7*, ES

    Rows 30 – 52 (the end of the hood) will be published in section 2 on October 31, 2022.

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

    Get the Pattern

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount on the purchase of “Winter Trees Hooded Cowl”. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.

    For Interlocking Crochet

    • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
      • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
      • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
      • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

    For Mosaic Crochet

    • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
      • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
      • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
      • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
      • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

    FREE Winter Trees Hooded Cowl CAL; interlocking and mosaic crochet patterns

    For me, a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) means everyone gets an opportunity to join in. This hooded cowl will be published for FREE on my website in three parts: the first half of the hood, the 2nd half of the hood, and then the cowl.

    You also have the option of purchasing the FULL PATTERN and CHARTS on Ravelry or Etsy. The free online version will be released in stages and does not include the charts.

    As per my usual, you will have the option of using the interlocking crochet technique or the overlay mosaic crochet technique. In my samples I have used a local hand-dyed alpaca yarn for my mosaic crochet version and some acrylic yarn for my interlocking crochet version.

    I did a little promo on YouTube: https://youtu.be/vEjPwRzBo1k

    I also switched the dark/light colors for fun. Do you prefer green trees or white trees?

    White used as Main Color in both my samples (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet)

    When you use the interlocking crochet technique you’ll have a few more rows than the mosaic option because we need to lock the two layers of mesh together. Whichever color you start with will become the trees.

    With the mosaic version, because we don’t need border lines, the first color you use will actually be the background color (the sky). I used white as the sky and as the envelope border but you could use the other color for your envelope border if you prefer.

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. Regular price applies on November 10, 2022.

    Or, you can forever view both the interlocking pattern and the mosaic pattern here on my website!

    I also created a quick support video for the cowl portion of this project:


    Follow this pattern for FREE here on my website!

    I will have both the interlocking crochet pattern AND the overlay mosaic crochet pattern for this square here online. Charts are not included, only the written portion. Charts are available in the purchased pattern.

    If you’re new to my patterns or to one of these techniques let me go over some basics.

    All of my patterns can be made using interlocking crochet (also called Locked Filet Mesh or LFM) or overlay mosaic crochet (that’s the technique where you cut at the end of each row).

    Interlocking crochet is two layers of mesh that get created row by row and locked together strategically to show the design. Watch my tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oku_6_hN1w4&list=PLbdEDo49IQroC7Xoj6svR0J0i0HvJU1IM

    Overlay mosaic crochet uses single crochet (US terms) in the back loop only and a dropped double crochet in the front loop two rows below to create the image. My tutorial: https://youtu.be/6YwXIqKqWjI

    Old patterns and a select few of my new ones will have the exact same chart for both techniques. Most of my new patterns use a chart for mosaic crochet that has been adjusted to remove the unnecessary mesh dots and extra border lines – so the image is the same but technically the charts are different. I also have added X’s onto my mosaic charts that tell you when to do a dropped double crochet.

    Regardless of whether the charts are the same or adjusted, the way you read the charts is different for each technique. I always include the written pattern for each technique as well as the charts. You can use one or the other, or both.

    I personally prefer to use the written pattern for both techniques. Once I create the written instructions I generally don’t look at the chart again.


    Interlocking Crochet Pattern

    The hood is a rectangle that gets folded in half. It starts with 53 windows in the foundation trellis.

    For yardage and other important details, click here.

    KEY

    AC = Accent Color. Second color used. The background / sky.
    MC = Main Color. First color used. The trees.
    RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design
    WS = wrong side: the back of your project
    Front = the side currently facing you
    Back = the side not facing you
    Ch = chain
    Sp = space
    Sk = skip a stitch
    SC = single crochet
    DC = double crochet
    F = DC in front, then CH 1
    B = DC behind, then CH 1
    ES = DC into the last window space
    EF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MC
    EB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MC
    ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
    ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

    • If you chain tighter than me you may need to Ch 4 where I Ch 3
    • Don’t confuse RS / WS with Front / Back
    • Remember, each color is worked into itself only and there is a chain space between each DC

    KEY for the Cowl portion:

    BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

    FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

    Foundation Rows (54 MC stitches, 53 AC stitches)

    STEP 1

    Using MC (white in my sample, the trees) create 53 windows.

    I prefer the chainless technique (chain 5, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).

    Alternatively, to create 53 windows you can chain 110, then DC in 5th chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.

    STEP 2

    With your AC (teal in my sample, the sky), chain 108. Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture BELOW). DC through the back of the next window into the 5th chain from your hook.

    Short sample showing how to put the gold AC tail through the dark purple MC trellis

    STEP 3

    Using your AC, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

    Turn your work and continue at row 4.

    WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

    4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *25F*, 1B, ES

    5 AC – Ch3 in back, 1B, *2B, 1F, 14B, 3F, 5B*, EB

    Row 6 will be published in section 1 on October 24, 2022.

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections


    Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

    This chart is slightly smaller than the interlocking crochet chart because the extra border lines (that are unnecessary with this technique) have been removed. The interlocking mesh dots have also been removed, so this is a ‘solid overlay mosaic crochet’ design.

    The x-marked chart can be found in the paid PDF only. Charts are not included in the free version online.

    View important details like yardage and finished size by clicking here.

    KEY for Mosaic Crochet

    MC = Main Color: first color used, white in my sample, the sky
    CC = Contrasting Color: second color used, green in my sample, the trees
    Sp = space
    Sk = skip a stitch
    CH = chain
    SC = single crochet
    sc = SC into Back Loop only
    FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
    DC = double crochet
    dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
    JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
    ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

    KEY for the Cowl portion

    BPDC = back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from the back around the front of the stitch and to the back again (go around the post), pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

    FPDC = front post double crochet: as above, except insert hook from the front of the stitch and go around the back of the post coming out the front again.

    Mosaic Crochet Technique

    • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
    • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
    • You are always working from the right to the left
    • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
      • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
    • Yarn colors can be anything you like. They need to contrast well and be the same weight (size / thickness)
    • I prefer using a Foundation Single Crochet to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all my other rows will have
    • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

    Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) – this will be your background / sky

    Use a foundation SC technique to create 102 FSC. Or chain 103, SC in 2nd chain from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

    Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

    Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.

    1 CC – JS, *sc50*, ES

    2 MC – JS, *dc4, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc7, dc23, (sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, dc5*, ES

    3 CC – JS, *sc4, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc29, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7*, ES

    4 MC – JS, *sc9, dc21, (sc1, dc1) x3, sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2*, ES

    5 CC – JS, *sc30, (dc1, sc1) x3, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3*, ES

    Continue with row 6 in Section 1 which will be published on October 24, 2022.

    Click here to jump to list of CAL sections

    Get the Pattern

    For the duration of the CAL, you’ll get an automatic 40% discount. Regular price applies on Nov 10, 2022.


    For Interlocking Crochet

    • Chart is 57 x 59 (repeat it twice)
    • Folded hood is about 17” / 44cm tall by 14” / 36cm deep, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
    • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
    • 5 mm hook (H-8)
    • Worsted weight yarn (700-740 yards total)
      • Hood Main color (MC) (black on chart, white in sample above, the trees) – 250 yards plus 40 for optional border
      • Hood Accent color (AC) (teal in sample, the sky) – 250 yards
      • Cowl (teal in sample) – 200 yards

      For Mosaic Crochet

      • Chart for hood is 50 x 53 (repeat it twice)
      • Folded hood, including envelope border brim is about 12” / 30cm square, plus a 5” / 13cm cowl
      • Gauge: 16 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
      • 5 mm hook (H-8)
      • Worsted weight yarn (655 yards total)
        • Hood Main Color (White) – 250 yards
        • Hood Contrasting Color (Green) – 180 yards
        • Hood Envelope Border (white) – 75 yards
        • Cowl (Green) – 150 yards

        Year of Gnomes Title Banner, Free Pattern in Facebook Group

        Today I have managed to send a finished custom pattern to a customer, read and reply to some emails (regarding testing two new patterns), and I almost got lost in scrolling through Instagram and Facebook but I managed to pull myself out.

        It is such a strange dichotomy – the need to be on social media for business, but the distraction of social media that interrupts working.

        On Instagram I asked for some feedback on my most recent Crochet-A-Long (Winter 2021). If you have anything you’d like me to know about the way I do CALs please contact me. Or comment on my Instagram post.

        In my Facebook group I posted an interlocking version and a mosaic version (both with charts and written instructions for right- and left-handed crocheters) of a title banner for the Year of Gnomes set. Someone asked if I could make a banner and I decided it would be an acceptable use of my time. It is not going to be part of the Ravelry or Etsy eBook because there are already so many files there and I don’t want to confuse people.

        You can grab the files here on my website if you don’t use Facebook. Please remember to share the link to my website if your friend would like a copy of the pattern instead of sending them the PDF yourself.

        Both files have the written instructions for right-handed crocheters, then left-handed written instructions. The chart can be found after the written lines.

        If you don’t want to add it to your gnomes you can use it as a scarf! Or a table runner. Although I think your guests might have a lot of questions if you draped this across your dining table.

        I’m off to bake some muffins with the kids now!

        Braided Chain Mosaic Scarf: 12 Days of Christmas Crochet Patterns Blog Hop

        I created a brand new scarf pattern for the “12 Days of Christmas Crochet Patterns” blog hop #sponsored by WeCrochet. It’s my first time joining a sponsored blog hop and it makes me feel like a real designer! There are about 30 designers involved in this event and it is only 12 days long (from October 27 – November 7, 2021) so you must act quickly.

        There are two paths to getting the Christmas Crochet Patterns in this event: daily free downloads or buy the entire bundle (for about $0.30 a pattern!). You can also get only my scarf pattern if you prefer – click or scroll down for details.

        The blog hopping option allows you to download a few free patterns each day by checking daily for a new code. Click the image above to go to the main post by Fosbas (our host designer). She has a daily list of all the patterns and codes. Scroll down to the current day and copy the code and then use that code on the patterns she has listed for that day. All of the patterns involved in the blog hop are included in the bundle that is available for purchase – so if you’ve missed a day or two you may want to just grab the bundle!

        Use my affiliate link to purchase the bundle

        If you buy the bundle you will get all 47 patterns included in the blog hop and also receive two bonus patterns from Fosbas Designs. Plus, if you use my affiliate link I will send you an email after the return period has closed with a code to add Braided Chain Mosaic Scarf to your Ravelry library so you can receive any updates that may become available down the road. And, I’ll throw in a FREE blanket pattern of your choice: Oh Tannenbaum or Warm Wishes (Gingerbread).

        I would love to stay in contact with you even after this event is done! Join my mailing list or subscribe to my blog (there should be a link in the sidebar) so you never miss a new pattern release!

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        Braided Chain Mosaic Scarf

        This luxurious unisex scarf uses the overlay mosaic crochet technique to create a stunning visual effect! The pattern includes written line-by-line instructions and a chart marked with X’s so you can use whichever is most comfortable for you. If you’re new to the technique check out my tutorials first.

        If you’re joining me on my special day (November 2nd) as part of the blog hop you can use the code you got from Fosbas to download this pattern FREE on Ravelry. If you don’t want to buy the big bundle and you aren’t here on my special day (Nov 2), you can take 20% off your purchase of my new scarf by using code “20CHAIN” until November 8, 2021. You can also purchase this scarf pattern on Etsy and use the same code.

        Download my pattern FREE as part of the “12 Days of Christmas” blog hop event on November 2, 2021

        And, I will always remember this project as the one I finished when we took the kids to the Royal Tyrell Museum of Paleontology (the dinosaur museum in Alberta, Canada). Great modeling skills, hubby! Happy times!

        I wanted to make an elegant scarf that you could wear to a party or use for everyday warmth. I live in Canada, so I need something thick and warm as well as stylish. Who wears it better? My husband or me?

        I’ve used Twill yarn. It is a worsted weight yarn (4-medium), 100% Superwash Merino Wool. These hanks are 100 grams each, with 149 yards. I chose to use the color Graphite Heather as my Main Color (MC) and Gold Rush as my Contrasting Color (CC). I needed two hanks of the gold and three hanks of the dark grey. You will have some leftover. You will need to carefully unwind these hanks before using them; a yarn swift and yarn winder come in very handy!

        You can substitute any medium worsted weight yarn. Gauge isn’t critical with a scarf, if you’re off by a few inches it will still keep you warm and beautiful!

        The nature of mosaic crochet is that fringe is created on the ends where you join and cut your yarn. I really like the finished, tidy look of chaining 15 to begin with and then chaining 15 before cutting it off. Be careful with your tension or you will create curly twists – they do block straight but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

        This chaining technique allows the project to be finished when you’re done the final row instead of requiring you to go back and do something extra with the loose tails.

        Typically, my patterns are designed for two techniques, but this pattern only works for the overlay mosaic technique; there is no interlocking version of my Braided Chain Mosaic Scarf!

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        Mosaic Technique

        If you’re new to this technique, please start with my tutorials: http://ashleeslint.com/2020/07/23/mosaic-technique/
        I have written instructions, a photo tutorial, and YouTube tutorials!

        Chained Fringe

        The nature of the overlay mosaic crochet technique automatically creates tails on both ends. By working our scarf along the long edge we keep the fringe on the short ends (which is pretty normal for a scarf). I’ve added a special detail to the fringe of this pattern. It is optional, of course, but if you like it you can use this technique for any of your overlay mosaic patterns!

        Usually I join my yarn to my project with the shortest tail possible. It is a waste of yarn to make a long tail if you’re just going to cover it with an envelope border (which I usually use on blankets). For this scarf I decided to chain 15 before joining to the project. I also chained 15 at the end of the row before cutting the yarn. These chains become a sturdy fringe that won’t tangle and felt and frizz like loose yarn would. They can get curly if you’re not careful with your tension though.

        Blocking, optional

        I do not block very many of my projects. The type of material you use will affect how well the blocking process works. Since I used Merino Wool, it was relatively easy to pin it, wet it, and let it dry. The curly tails all straightened right out!

        I did not block the body of the scarf.

        Thank you for all the ways you support me (blog visits, pattern purchases, newsletter sign ups, etc)! I am really enjoying this and I will continue to design new patterns for you all!

        Crochet Pattern Bundle: Fall Ribbons Scarf and Pumpkin Trio Blanket

        I don’t sit outside much lately because there are maple bugs EVERYWHERE! 😬😵 I am not a bug person 😅 I do like Autumn though; the leaves are falling, the ground is crunchy when you step on the piles of dried leaves, and the weather can’t make up its mind whether it wants to feel like summer or fall (a classic fall move).

        I originally wanted to create a table runner for this fresh new season but the yarn I had on hand was too thick. So I have created an oversized scarf instead.

        I have crocheted this sample using the overlay mosaic crochet technique but the pattern (as usual) is written up for two techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet.

        Click here or scroll down for more Fall Ribbons Scarf information.

        I also drew up these cute fall pumpkins at the same time. Click here or scroll down for more Pumpkin Trio Throw information.

        This Pumpkin Trio Throw blanket pattern and Fall Ribbons Scarf both come with right- and left-handed instructions because they both include the written word “Fall”.

        See more patterns that include left-handed instructions here: https://www.ravelry.com/bundles/left-handed-instructions-included

        I’ve published these two fall patterns individually on Ravelry and Etsy.

        On Etsy, get an automatic 30% off these two new patterns until October 8, 2021.

        On Ravelry, if you purchase both the scarf and the throw you will get an automatic 50% bundle discount until October 8, 2021.

        These two patterns are bundled because they are both new Fall-themed seasonal patterns, but there is something more; there’s something different about these two patterns compared to my previous patterns. You might have noticed when you look at my scarf in the photo above it doesn’t have the tell-tale dots that we have come to know as a feature of interlocking crochet.

        Patterns Adjusted

        Normally, I use the same chart for the two techniques (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet). The nature of interlocking crochet is that it creates a dotted grid over the image which means when you use the mosaic technique you never have more than one dropped double crochet in a row. I have adjusted the mosaic chart for these two fall patterns and removed the unnecessary dots.

        The long sections of one color will create ridges on the backside. If you don’t like them, you can use a lock-down technique, but that is an optional step that I haven’t done in my sample.

        This image shows the normal stitches and the flaps that creates compared to a different pattern where I have locked down each stitch and you can see the back is completely smooth.

        I’ve also had to adjust the gauge for the mosaic version of these fall patterns. The stitches were too crowded with so many dropped double crochets in a row so I went up a hook size (I used a 5 mm hook instead of my usual 4.5 mm). Scarves and blankets are quite forgiving if you don’t match my gauge but if you use the information to buy yarn then you’ll want to look at these patterns with fresh eyes and not assume the information is the same as my other patterns.

        Fall Ribbons Scarf

        When you approach a pattern from a designer you are familiar with it is only natural to skim through the details. You already know what to expect. But I’ve made some changes to this scarf that might trip you up. The paragraphs above describe how I adjusted the mosaic charts.

        Normally, the chart starts with the dark color and that is considered your Main Color (MC) for the written pattern. If you look at the charts that come with this scarf pattern you will notice that this is still true for the interlocking method but it is the opposite for the mosaic method; the mosaic chart starts with the light-colored squares and these are the MC in the written. Don’t panic and confuse yourself. Just choose your technique and read the instructions given. Reach out if you need help.

        If you would like an orange scarf with the word “Fall” written in black, then you should use orange as your Main Color (MC) when you do the mosaic technique but for the interlocking crochet technique you will need to begin with black as your MC because of the extra rows that lock the layers together.

        Another thing that I want you to know: the chart for the scarf pattern is two different sizes depending on which technique you use. The length is the same as all my other scarves which is good for having the option of using these as panels in a blanket (like my Father’s Day CAL). The mosaic chart is 241 x 41 (the same as my other scarves) but the interlocking crochet chart is 241 x 45. I added the border lines to lock the layers together without cutting into the design which means it is just a bit different than the others. See more scarves here: ashleeslint.com/patterns#scarves

        When you use the mosaic crochet technique you will also create fringe on each end of the scarf. This is a natural by-product of the overlay mosaic crochet technique. I really like the finished, tidy look of chaining 15 to begin with and
        then chaining 15 before cutting it off. It also makes it easy to get them the same length on each end, and it prevents the fringe from getting knotted and tangled or felting in the wash. If you want fringe on your scarf after using the interlocking technique you’ll have to add it after you’ve finished the scarf.

        Pumpkin Trio Throw

        This is one of my smaller throw blankets, without being so small as to be considered a baby blanket. The chart is 191 x 175 which means if you meet the gauge as I’ve written in the mosaic version your blanket will be 51” x 44”. If you are using the interlocking technique you should get a blanket 49″ x 44″. There’s only a slight difference between the sizes because of the additional double crochets in the mosaic version.

        If you read the paragraphs above you’ll know that I have adjusted the mosaic chart on this pattern (and the scarf) so that the interlocking dots are not showing on the mosaic pattern.

        This blanket, just like the scarf, has written instructions for right- and left-handed crocheters because of the written word “Fall” in the top right corner. You can see more patterns that have left-handed instructions here: https://www.ravelry.com/bundles/left-handed-instructions-included

        If you’re an Etsy-only shopper than you can grab the Pumpkin Trio Throw and Fall Ribbons Scarf as a Bundle together. If you’d rather just purchase one of the patterns then you can do that on Ravelry. If you buy both on Ravelry you will get an automatic bundle discount! No expiry. Check it out!