This blanket will keep you warm through the glacial winter! There are a few slight differences between the interlocking version and the overlay mosaic version of this pattern because I added the interlocking mesh after drawing the mosaic design.

Image comparing mosaic version to interlocking version

The gold sections were inspired by a gold belt buckle and the “trees” were originally supposed to represent holiday balls. There are two different sections of the teal and purple that look very, very similar: don’t panic and think you’ve made a mistake when the 5th blue/purple section looks different than your first 4 sections!

I have used Loops & Thread Impeccable yarn; you can substitute any worsted weight (4 – medium) yarn. This design uses four (4) colors: Gold (G), Purple (P), Teal (T), and White (W).

Like all of my patterns, this one has the option of being made using overlay mosaic crochet or interlocking crochet. Both options come with charts (the mosaic charts have X’s) and line-by-line instructions (including color information for each row).

It is easy to get multiple colors in a mosaic piece. When changing colors using interlocking crochet I suggest you cut and tie off only just before you attach the next color. It is important to keep the working yarn on the Right Side of your work and it is easy to get confused if you cut your yarn before you are ready to use the next color. Carrying your yarn is not recommended; cut and tie off at each color change.

The color changes create tails – not my favorite part.

Also, it is wise to decide what you will do with the tails before you start. Will you be crocheting a border over them? Will you be weaving them in like I did? Make sure to leave them long enough to do that.

To minimize seeing the colors below the color change in the wrong line (see picture below: the white stitch is behind the purple but some of it shows where it goes into the teal stitches), when using a new color I have used the WRONG SIDE loop only. Sometimes this is the Front Loop Only and other times this is the Back Loop Only. If you have a hard time distinguishing between the RIGHT SIDE and WRONG SIDE, you may wish to tie a bow on the right side of your work to help you remember. This step is optional.

See how the white shows where it has gone into the teal?

Normally I use Main Color (MC) and Accent Color (AC) to distinguish between two contrasting colors in my interlocking patterns. You can think of this as the outer layer and inner layer, or larger layer and smaller layer of mesh instead. Every time you turn your work, I have a note that says: Put non-working yarn to FRONT or BACK. This would normally be referring to your Accent Color yarn but it is still the smaller, inner mesh of whichever color you happen to be working with. The colors change but the technique does not; if you’re new to this technique I suggest you start with something simpler.

If you use mosaic crochet you will have fringe on the sides (the nature of joining and cutting your yarn for each row). I added an envelope border to the two side edges only (not around all four edges of the blanket) to cover up the tails.

There are a lot of options for dealing with those tails (including leaving them, twisting/braiding them, sewing them in afterwards, crocheting over them as you go, adding an envelope border, or you can even not cut at the end of each row and flip your work instead but then you’d also have to read some of the lines from end to start and make sure your dropped double crochets are always on the right side of your work).

The wrong side on the mosaic crochet version will be stripes. A faint image of the front can be seen on the back because of the flaps that are created when there are long stretches of dropped double crochets.

If you use the interlocking crochet technique you will have a reversed image on the wrong side. My sample is not as wide as a blanket but I think you can still see enough to get an idea.

Wrong sides when using overlay mosaic crochet and interlocking crochet.

The width of this pattern is easily adjustable, but it is designed as a blanket; that is six repeats of the pattern. Yardage listed is for a full blanket (six repeats). Repeat between the asterisks (*) to get your required width. Yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted, just keep in mind your finished project will use a different amount of yarn and be a different finished size.

Speaking of yarn usage, did you notice there is a difference in how many skeins are needed based on which technique you use? I find it quite interesting actually! My yardage amounts are quite exact so you may wish to buy an extra skein of purple if you are doing the interlocking technique.

Mosaic blanket draped on my front step.

Get the Pattern

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I use a different gauge and hook size for each technique because of how crowded the stitches get. Yardage requirements are different as well.

Overlay Mosaic Crochet

  • Mosaic Blanket: 55” x 62” / 140cm x 158cm
  • Mosaic Gauge: 16 stitches x 14 rows = 4”
  • 5 mm hook (H)
  • Loops & Threads, Impeccable Solids: 285 yards/261 m; 127.5 g/4.48 oz per skein or substitute any worsted weight yarn
    • Gold – 320 yards / 141 g / 2 skeins needed
    • Purple – 1030 yards / 460 g / 4 skeins needed
    • Teal – 1090 yards / 484 g / 4 skeins needed
    • White – 1055 yards / 471 g / 4 skeins needed

Numbers above are for a full blanket (6 repeats wide) and INCLUDE the optional envelope border on two ends (515 yards): Purple – 460 yards, Teal – 55 yards

Interlocking (LFM) Crochet

  • Finished LFM blanket: 53″ x 60″ / 135cm x 152cm
  • LFM Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows = 4”
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Loops & Threads, Impeccable Solids: 285 yards/261 m; 127.5 g/4.48 oz per skein or substitute any worsted weight yarn
    • Gold – 150 yards / 66 g / 1 skein needed
    • Purple – 1140 yards / 507 g / 4 skeins needed
    • Teal – 1482 yards / 663 g / 6 skeins needed
    • White – 1080 yards / 483 g / 4 skeins needed

Yardage listed is for the full blanket (6 repeats wide).