The Paw Purse: Part 1
April 2024 Crochet-A-Long
To continue with my 4th Designaversary celebration I’ve created a small crochet-a-long (CAL)! This little bag uses the paw and hearts from a small square I published in May 2021 called “The Paw 20“. This bag is worked in the round (as a tube).
For this CAL you can find the written pattern here online or you can purchase the pattern in it’s entirety (including the x-marked chart) from Ravelry or Etsy.
Get The Paw Purse: Free or Paid
The Paw Purse is available on Ravelry and Etsy as a nice prinatable PDF with the fully written patterns and chart for both of my favorite colorwork techniques (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet).
The writtens patterns will be forever-free here on my website!
Thank you for supporting me in whichever way works best for you!
Interlocking & Mosaic Crochet Options
The current page you’re on is ONLY for the overlay mosaic crochet version of this design.
CAL Schedule
Today, April 19, 2024, I’ve published part one of this CAL here on my website and made the paid PDFs available. Purchasing gives you access to the fully written pattern and charts for both techniques.
On April 26 I’ll publish part two of the free online version.
UPDATE: part two is now live!
Automatic Discount
For the rest of my Designaversary month all my Crochet-A-Longs are automatically 40% off. This new CAL is included!
Offer ends 11:59 pm CST April 30, 2024.
Introduction
Crochet this purse in the round (as a tube) so there’s no need to cut your yarn. The length of your strap can easily be adjusted.
Part 1 is the foundation rows up to round 24. Part 2 will be rounds 25 through 34 as well as the bag strap and optional button closure.
Support video #1 shows my preferred foundation method and some tips for working in the round.
If you need more support, try this older tutorial on creating a tube: https://youtu.be/waTD3QzaA0I.
Support video #2 will show the finishing touches (strap and optional button closure).
I’ve listed two yarn weight options below, but you can use any yarn of any weight and an appropriately sized hook for this bag. Your yardage and finished bag size will change, of course, but the image will remain, and the bag will be functional still.
If you share your works on Instagram, feel free to tag me: @AshleesLint
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Watch my tutorials on YouTube.com/c/AshleeBrotzellDesigns I also have a free photo tutorial in PDF form on this technique available in my Facebook group (Ashlee Brotzell Designs) and on Ravelry All my social media links are here: |
Subscribe to my newsletter to be notified about new pattern releases (and get special discount codes)!
You’ll also have access to my Doctor Who blanket pattern!
“The Paw Purse” Yardage & Sizing
I always include an Important Details section at the beginning of my patterns. These details include the chart size, the hook size, and yardage requirements.
For The Paw Purse, I’ve put two gauge options!
But, of course, you’re free to use any yarn weight of any fibre. I prefer 100% cotton for a bag.
Brush up on your yarn weight knowledge by checking out the information from Yarn Craft Council.
Panda Yarns
This is not a sponsored post. I just wanted to give a little shout-out to this small Canadian business! Panda Yarns is a woman-owned business in the province next to me (I’m in Saskatchewan, she’s in Alberta).
She ships in Canada and the USA.
There are so many colors options and the prices are great!
I used the 4-ply for my fingering weight purse but I’ve also got some 5-ply here waiting for me to get busy! *cue the sparkly eyes*
My overlay mosaic crochet sample using fingering weight yarn. No button added yet.
Important Details
- US crochet terminology
- Chart is 37 (repeat twice) x 34
Fingering Weight Yarn (1 – Fine)
- Yarn: Panda Yarns 100% cotton, 4-ply: 600 y / 549m per 5.85 oz. / 166 g
- Main color (MC) / background – 73 yards / 67m or 20 g / 0.71 oz
- Contrasting color (CC) / paw – 55 yards / 50 m or 15 g / 0.53 oz
- Optional strap (MC) 32” / 82cm – 47 yards / 43m or 13 g / 0.46 oz
- 5 mm hook (E-4)
- Gauge: 24 sc x 25 rows in one color = 4”
- Body of bag: 6” x 6” / 15cm x 15cm
Worsted Weight Yarn (4 – Medium)
- Yarn: Lily Sugar’n Cream 100% cotton: 120 y / 110m per 70 g / 2.47 oz.
- Main color (MC) / background – 140 yards / 128m or 81 g / 2.86 oz
- Contrasting color (CC) / paw – 105 yards / 96 m or 61 g / 2.15 oz
- Optional strap (MC) 33” / 84cm – 42 yards / 39m or 24 g / 0.85 oz
- 5 mm hook (H-8)
- Gauge: 14 sc x 15 rows in one color = 4”
- Body of bag: 10.5” x 9” / 27cm x 23cm
I used worsted weight yarn for the interlocking crochet sample (blue and white) and you can see the size difference with the pink fingering weight yarn sample.
Key (US terminology)
MC = Main Color: blue in chart (available in paid pattern only), background
CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart (available in paid pattern only), the paw
ch = chain
SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
sc = SC into Back Loop only
FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously
DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops*, twice
dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below
Invisible join = after completing your final stitch of the round, cut your yarn (leaving a tail long enough to weave the ends in) and pull the loose end all the way through the loop on your hook. Thread yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert needle into the first stitch of the round under the loops where you would put your hook if you were doing a normal stitch into that stitch. Then bring the needle back down through the final stitch of the round
Join = at the end of each round, insert your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch of that round, pull up a loop of the other color and pull this loop through all the loops on your hook
TKS = Tunisian Knit Stitch: working between the vertical bars, insert your hook through the center of the two bars and under the chain, yarn over and pull up a loop
Overlay Mosaic Crochet Technique
Please see the YouTube tutorial (https://youtu.be/6YwXIqKqWjI) for more details on the overlay mosaic crochet technique. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending. You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.
- The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
- You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
- This bag is worked in the round so you do not cut your yarn at the end of each round, you carry it up the inside seam
- Yarn colors can be anything you like
- They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
- They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
How to read the brackets: https://ashleeslint.com/2020/08/29/brackets-in-crochet-patterns/
sc = a single crochet in the body of the pattern is going into the Back Loop Only
dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below
The single crochet behind the dropped double crochet does not get used.
Foundation Row
(Row 0): use Main Color (MC) / bag background color
There are three different ways you can start this project. I prefer to use the first method listed and that is the method shown in the first support video (link on page 1).
Option 1 (shown in support video)
Chain 38. Single crochet in second stitch from your hook. Single crochet in each stitch (37 SC) and then turn and single crochet in each chain back (74 SC). Join (see color changing join method in key) and continue with row 1.
Option 2
Or use the foundation SC technique to create 74 FSC. Being careful not to twist your project, join to the first stitch (see color changing method in key) and continue with row 1. Sew bottom of tube closed afterwards.
Option 3
Or chain 74. Join to the first stitch (do not twist). Single crochet in the same stitch you just joined to and then single crochet around (74 SC). Being careful not to twist your project, join to the first stitch (see color changing method in key) and continue with row 1. Sew bottom of tube closed afterwards.
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Do NOT cut your yarn, simply carry it up the inside of your tube.
The foundation rows can be twisty and fiddly. Have patience, your bag will soon look like a bag!
Rows 1 through 24
For row 1, use Contrasting Color (CC) / paw color.
Remember, even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC.
Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice as you create the front and back of your bag.
CC 1 – *sc37*, join.
Progress to about row 21.
MC 2 – *dc8, sc5, dc5, sc5, dc7, sc5, dc2*, join.
TIP: for final dc of the round, yarn over & insert hook into front loop as expected, but also insert hook into front loop where the first dc was made to keep the seam tight and tidy.
CC 3 – *sc8, dc5, sc5, dc5, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, join.
MC 4 – *dc6, sc19, dc5, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc2*, join.
CC 5 – *sc6, dc19, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2*, join.
MC 6 – *dc6, sc19, dc7, sc3, dc2*, join.
CC 7 – *sc6, dc19, sc12*, join.
MC 8 – *dc6, sc19, dc12*, join.
CC 9 – *sc8, dc15, sc14*, join.
MC 10 – *dc8, sc15, dc14*, join.
CC 11 – *sc8, dc15, sc14*, join.
MC 12 – *dc8, sc15, dc14*, join.
CC 13 – *sc10, dc11, sc16*, join.
MC 14 – *dc4, sc5, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc5, dc10*, join.
CC 15 – *sc4, dc5, sc1, dc11, sc1, dc5, sc10*, join.
MC 16 – *dc2, sc7, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc8*, join.
CC 17 – *sc2, (dc7, sc3) x2, dc7, sc8*, join.
MC 18 – *dc2, (sc7, dc3) x2, sc7, dc8*, join.
CC 19 – *sc2, dc5, sc17, dc5, sc8*, join.
MC 20 – *dc2, sc5, dc3, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc3, sc5, dc8*, join.
CC 21 – *sc10, dc3, sc5, dc3, sc16*, join.
MC 22 – *dc8, sc7, dc1, sc7, dc14*, join.
CC 23 – *sc8, dc7, sc1, dc7, sc14*, join.
MC 24 – *dc8, sc7, dc1, sc7, dc7, sc5, dc2*, join.
UPDATE: part two is now live!
Stay tuned for part 2!
You’ll have a few days to make progress on your bag and then we’ll move onto part 2 in The Paw Purse CAL.
Part 2 will be rows 25 through 34 as well as the bag strap and optional button closure.
