The Paw Purse: Part 2
April 2024 Crochet-A-Long
We started this CAL on April 19, 2024; but you can crochet this bag whenever you’d like because this written pattern will remain free online or you can purchase the pattern in it’s entirety (including the x-marked chart) from Ravelry or Etsy.
Get The Paw Purse: Free or Paid
The Paw Purse is available on Ravelry and Etsy as a nice prinatable PDF with the fully written patterns and chart for both of my favorite colorwork techniques (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet).
The writtens patterns will be forever-free here on my website!
Thank you for supporting me in whichever way works best for you!
Interlocking & Mosaic Crochet Options
The current page you’re on is ONLY for the overlay mosaic crochet version of this design.
There is also an interlocking crochet version.
Automatic Discount
For the rest of my Designaversary month all my Crochet-A-Longs are automatically 40% off. This new CAL is included!
No code needed, offer ends April 30, 2024.
Introduction
We are crocheting this purse in the round (as a tube) so there’s no need to cut the yarn.
If you’ve missed the beginning of this pattern or need a refresher of the KEY please head back to part one.
If you share your works on Instagram, feel free to tag me: @AshleesLint
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Watch my tutorials on YouTube.com/c/AshleeBrotzellDesigns I also have a free photo tutorial in PDF form on this technique available in my Facebook group (Ashlee Brotzell Designs) and on Ravelry All my social media links are here: |
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You’ll also have access to my Doctor Who blanket pattern!
To Recap
In part one we looked at the foundation and the first 24 rounds. There is information on the overlay mosaic crochet technique and an informative key.
This part of the key becomes relevant on the final round:
Invisible join = after completing your final stitch of the round, cut your yarn (leaving a tail long enough to weave the ends in) and pull the loose end all the way through the loop on your hook. Thread yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert needle into the first stitch of the round under the loops where you would put your hook if you were doing a normal stitch into that stitch. Then bring the needle back down through the final stitch of the round
Compared to:
Join = at the end of each round, insert your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch of that round, pull up a loop of the other color and pull this loop through all the loops on your hook
Continuing from Part One
CC 25 – *sc8, dc7, sc1, dc7, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, join.
MC 26 – *dc8, sc7, dc1, sc7, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc2*, join.
CC 27 – *sc10, dc3, sc5, dc3, sc9, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc4*, join.
MC 28 – *dc10, sc3, dc5, sc3, dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc4*, join.
CC 29 – *sc24, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc8*, join.
MC 30 – *dc2, sc5, dc17, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc2*, join.
CC 31 – *sc2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc19, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc2*, join.
MC 32 – *dc2, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc19, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc2*, join.
CC 33 – *sc2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc25, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc4*, join.
Cut and tie off CC.
MC 34 – *dc2, sc3, dc25, sc3, dc4*, invisible join.
The charted pattern is now complete but if you’d like a taller tube, you can add a few rows of double crochet. To keep the same visual texture, you should work in the front loops only. This will use more yardage if you choose this option.
Weave in all ends.
My red and blue sport-weight sack is finished and ready for the strap!
Finishing Touches
You now have a little sack.
It’s not quite a purse yet.
You’ll need to create a strap or handle. I like to make mine long enough for a cross-body bag.
You can also add a button closure to keep the top from gaping wide open.
If you’re really industrious you could line your bag or add a zipper closure. My tutorial doesn’t go that far.
Bottom Seam
If your tube is not yet joined at the bottom now would be a good time to flatten your bag, making sure the design is lined up on the front and back the way you want it, and then sew the bottom shut.
If you turn your bag inside out it will be striped! You’ll also get a faint illusion of the design from where the different kinds of stitches pull and lay just a bit differently from each other.
Bag Strap
View on second support video: https://youtu.be/K1BhTKqb-dQ
I added a single cross-body shoulder strap using a Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS). I like using this stitch because it’s a fun way to practice an interesting technique and because I like how sturdy it is.
You can easily adjust how long your strap is by adjusting how many rows you do. The amount of rows you do will also depend on which yarn weight you’re using because it takes less rows to get a 30″ strap when you’re using a thicker yarn.
Regardless of yarn weight used, I made my strap 5 stitches wide. Row count is listed below.
Make sure your bag is lying completely flat and straight before joining the straps on.
Fingering Weight
For the fine weight yarn, I did 231 rows of TKS. It is 32” / 82cm from end to end. From shoulder to the bag top it is 16” / 41cm.
It is 0.75” / 1.9cm wide.
Worsted Weight
For the medium weight yarn, I did 151 rows of TKS. It is 33” / 84cm from end to end. From shoulder to the bag top it is 16.5” / 42cm.
It is 1” / 2.5cm wide.
TKS = Tunisian Knit Stitch: working between the vertical bars, insert your hook through the center of the two bars and under the chain, yarn over and pull up a loop
Loop size depends on which button you choose to use!
You did it!
That completes part two of The Paw Purse CAL.
Congratulations! Show off your adorable Paw Purse with pride! #ThePawPurse
But beware, there have been many reports of crocheters being asked to make another because they’re just so cute!
