The Paw Purse: Part 1
April 2024 Crochet-A-Long
To continue with my 4th Designaversary celebration I’ve created a small crochet-a-long (CAL)! This little bag uses the paw and hearts from a small square I published in May 2021 called “The Paw 20“. This bag is worked in the round (as a tube).
For this CAL you can find the written pattern here online or you can purchase the pattern in it’s entirety (including the x-marked chart) from Ravelry or Etsy.
Get The Paw Purse: Free or Paid
The Paw Purse is available on Ravelry and Etsy as a nice prinatable PDF with the fully written patterns and chart for both of my favorite colorwork techniques (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet).
The writtens patterns will be forever-free here on my website!
Thank you for supporting me in whichever way works best for you!
Interlocking & Mosaic Crochet Options
The current page you’re on is ONLY for the interlocking crochet version of this design.
CAL Schedule
Today, April 19, 2024, I’ve published part one of this CAL here on my website and made the paid PDFs available. Purchasing gives you access to the fully written pattern and charts for both techniques.
On April 26 I’ll publish part two of the free online version.
UPDATE: part two is now live!
Automatic Discount
For the rest of my Designaversary month all my Crochet-A-Longs are automatically 40% off. This new CAL is included!
Offer ends 11:59 pm CST April 30, 2024.
Introduction
This bag is worked in the round, as a tube. The length of your strap can easily be adjusted.
Because this pattern is worked in the round the headers in the written pattern look slightly different than my blanket or large square designs. There are a few new items in the Key as well.
This written pattern here is part 1. You will do the foundation rows up to round 24. Part 2 will be rounds 25 through 38 as well as the bag strap and optional button closure. Support video #1 shows every stitch in the first seven rows (foundation through row 7): https://youtu.be/jJ4AfTaqT80
If you need more support, try my older tutorials on interlocking crochet: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbdEDo49IQroC7Xoj6svR0J0i0HvJU1IM
Support video #2 will show the final round where we lock the two layers together and then do the finishing touches (strap and optional button closure).
I’ve listed two yarn weight options below, but you can use any yarn of any weight and an appropriately sized hook for this bag. Your yardage and finished bag size will change, of course, but the image will remain, and the bag will be functional still.
If you share your works on Instagram, feel free to tag me: @AshleesLint
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Watch my tutorials on YouTube.com/c/AshleeBrotzellDesigns I also have a free photo tutorial in PDF form on this technique available in my Facebook group (Ashlee Brotzell Designs) and on Ravelry All my social media links are here: |
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You’ll also have access to my Doctor Who blanket pattern!
“The Paw Purse” Yardage & Sizing
I always include an Important Details section at the beginning of my patterns. These details include the chart size, the hook size, and yardage requirements.
For The Paw Purse, I’ve put two gauge options!
But, of course, you’re free to use any yarn weight of any fibre. I prefer 100% cotton for a bag.
Brush up on your yarn weight knowledge by checking out the information from Yarn Craft Council.
Panda Yarns
This is not a sponsored post. I just wanted to give a little shout-out to this small Canadian business! Panda Yarns is a woman-owned business in the province next to me (I’m in Saskatchewan, she’s in Alberta).
She ships in Canada and the USA.
There are so many colors options and the prices are great!
I used the 4-ply for my fingering weight purse but I’ve also got some 5-ply here waiting for me to get busy! *cue the sparkly eyes*
Compare the size between the worsted weight bag on the bottom and the fingering weight bag on top. I also created a 5-ply (sport weight) bag for my son but did not calculate a gauge for that option.
Important Details for Interlocking Crochet Option
- US crochet terminology
- Chart is 76 x 38
Interlocking Crochet: Fingering Weight Yarn (1 – Fine)
- Yarn: Panda Yarns 100% cotton, 4-ply: 600 y / 549m per 166 g / 5.85 oz.
- Main color (MC) / paw – 80 yards / 73m or 22 g / 0.78 oz.
- Accent color (AC) / background – 69 yards / 62 m or 19 g / 0.67 oz.
- Optional strap (MC) 32” / 82cm – 47 yards / 43m or 13 g / 0.46 oz
- 3.5 mm hook (E-4)
- Gauge: 11 (dc, ch) x 11 rows in one color = 4”
- Body of bag: 7” / 18cm
Interlocking Crochet: Worsted Weight Yarn (4 – Medium)
- Yarn: Lily Sugar’n Cream 100% cotton: 120 y / 110m per 70 g / 2.47 oz.
- Main color (MC) / paw – 145 yards / 133m or 85 g / 3 oz
- Accent color (AC) / background – 130 yards / 119m or 75 g / 2.65 oz
- Optional strap (MC) – 33” / 84cm – 42 yards / 39m or 24 g / 0.85 oz
- 4.5 mm hook (US7)
- Gauge: 8 (dc, ch) x 8 rows = 4”
- Body of bag: 9.5” x 9.5” / 24cm x 24cm
I used worsted weight yarn for the interlocking crochet sample (blue and white) and you can see the size difference with the pink fingering weight yarn sample.
Key (US terminology)
AC = accent color: white in chart, background color
ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you
ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you
B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1
Back = the side not facing you
ch = chain
dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice
EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC
EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC
ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space
F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1
Front = the side currently facing you
join = slip stitch into the back loop only of the first stitch in the round
MC = main color: blue on chart, the paw
MCB = put MC yarn to the side facing away from you
MCF = bring the MC yarn to the side facing you
RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design, the outside of the bag
sk = skip a stitch
sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook
TKS = Tunisian Knit Stitch: working between the vertical bars, insert your hook through the center of the two bars and under the chain, yarn over and pull up a loop
tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times
WS = wrong side: the inside of the bag
About the use of brackets: https://ashleeslint.com/2020/08/29/brackets-in-crochet-patterns/
Interlocking Crochet Technique
If you’re new to this technique you may find you need more support than what is available in the support videos I created for this CAL. You may wish to start with a small flat piece.
Check out all my tutorials at https://ashleeslint.com/tutorials
This bag is worked in the round so there are a few differences between the flat tutorials and this bag.
The biggest difference is WHEN you have to move the yarn tail that goes to your other color. When we do the flat piece we never need to worry about moving the Main Color (MC) and we always move the Accent Color (AC) yarn tail at the same point throughout the pattern.
When working in the round we will be moving both colors and sometimes it will be at the end of the round and sometimes it will be at the beginning.
These movements are written in the pattern below – so just pay attention and follow it as written.
Foundation Rows
See support video #1: https://youtu.be/jJ4AfTaqT80
- Using MC, chain 76. Being careful not to twist the chain, join with slip stitch to first chain. Ch 3, Sk1, DC to make the first window. Repeat *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* all the way around. When there is only one chain space left, skip it, chain 1 and join with slip stitch into 2nd chain of the initial ch3. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
- With your AC, chain 76. Being careful not to twist the chain, join with slip stitch to first chain. Ch 3, use stitch marker to hold. Pull entire circle of chains from back to front through MC window directly to the right of where the MC row was joined together. Move MC to the back and then create the AC windows.
- To create AC windows, *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. When there is only one chain space left, skip it, chain 1 and join with slip stitch into 2nd chain of the initial ch3. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
The foundation rows can be twisty and fiddly. Have patience, your bag will soon look like a bag!
Repeat between the asterisks (*) twice.
WS
4 MC (ACB) – *19F*, join.
5 AC– *1B, 2F, 4B, 2F, 3B, 2F, 5B*, (MCF), join.
RS
6 MC – *5B, 3F, 2B, 3F, 3B, 1F, 1B, 1F*, (ACF), join.
7 AC – *1F, (MCB), 4F, 9B, 3F, 1B, 1F*, join.
WS
8 MC (ACB) – *1F, 2B, 3F, 10B, 3F*, join.
9 AC – *1B, 1F, 4B, 9F, 4B*, (MCF), join.
RS
10 MC – *4B, 10F, 5B*, (ACF), join.
11 AC – *1F, (MCB), 4F, 9B, 5F*, join.
WS
12 MC (ACB) – *7F, 8B, 4F*, join.
13 AC – *7B, 7F, 5B*, (MCF), join.
RS
14 MC – *5B, 8F, 6B*, (ACF), join.
15 AC – *1F, (MCB), 5F, 7B, 6F*, join.
WS
16 MC (ACB) – *8F, 6B, 5F*, join.
17 AC – *5B, 2F, 1B, 5F, 1B, 2F, 3B*, (MCF), join.
RS
18 MC – *3B, 12F, 4B*, (ACF), join.
19 AC – *1F, (MCB), 2F, 3B, 1F, 5B, 1F, 3B, 3F*, join.
WS
20 MC (ACB) – *4F, (4B, 1F) x3*, join.
21 AC – *4B, (3F, 2B) x3*, (MCF), join.
RS
22 MC – *2B, 3F, 8B, 3F, 3B*, (ACF), join.
23 AC – *1F, (MCB), 2F, 2B, 2F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 3F*, join.
WS
24 MC (ACB) – *8F, 2B, 2F, 2B, 5F*, join.
Progress to about row 28. I should have taken an earlier photo for this Crochet-A-Long.
Stay tuned for part 2!
You’ll have a few days to make progress on your bag and then we’ll move onto part 2 in The Paw Purse CAL.
Part 2 will be rows 25 through 38. We will join the top edge together and then create a bag strap and do an optional button closure.
UPDATE: Part two is now live!
