Mosaic Sleigh
Overlay Mosaic Crochet Only
Unlike most of my patterns, this Sleigh design is made for overlay mosaic crochet only. This is part of a multi-designer Crochet-A-Long.
This pattern, and each part in the 2022: Mosaic Christmas CAL, will remain free forever.
Written, Chart, & Video
You can choose to use the written pattern, the x-marked chart, or the YouTube video walk-thru to complete your Mosaic Sleigh.
Part 5, by Ashlee Brotzell Designs: Sleigh
You can view the full pattern here on my website (chart is viewable as a jpg here), or grab a nice FREE PDF of the written pattern and chart on Ravelry. I’ve made a full walk-thru available on YouTube as well.
2022 Mosaic Christmas CAL
The 2022 Mosaic Christmas CAL (Crochet-A-Long) is hosted by Mosaic Crochet MALs, CALs & more group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/mosaiccrochet
Each pattern in this CAL is free and includes a written pattern, a chart, and a YouTube walk-thru. Use the hashtag #MosaicChristmasCAL
Ashlee’s Interlocking & Mosaic Crochet
Most of my patterns come with written instructions and charts for two techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet.
This pattern, the Sleigh, was designed specifically for this multi-designer Crochet-A-Long and it is MOSAIC ONLY.
You’ll also note that I usually list patterns on Etsy as well as Ravelry, but Etsy doesn’t allow free downloads, so you won’t find this pattern there.
List of designers and schedule of release
October 29. Part 1 and Separation section. Designer BebaBlanket https://www.ravelry.com/stores/bebablanket-designs
November 2. Part 2. Designer Carol Scott https://www.ravelry.com/designers/carol-a-scott
November 5. Part 3. Designer Svetlana Rogathyk https://www.ravelry.com/designers/svetlana-rogatykh
November 9. Part 4. Designer Iti Hamberg Brons https://www.ravelry.com/designers/iti-hamberg-brons
November 12. Part 5. Designer Ashlee Brotzell https://www.ravelry.com/designers/ashlee-brotzell
November 16. Part 6. Designer Robyn B Kaleta https://www.ravelry.com/designers/robyn-b-kaleta
November 19. Part 7. Designer Maud Akkermans https://www.ravelry.com/designers/maud-akkermans
November 23. Part 8. Designer Carol Scott https://www.ravelry.com/designers/carol-a-scott
November 26. Part 9. Designer Svetlana Rogathyk https://www.ravelry.com/designers/svetlana-rogatykh
November 30. Part 10. Designer BebaBlanket https://www.ravelry.com/stores/bebablanket-designs
December 3. Part 11 and Border. Designer Maud Akkermans https://www.ravelry.com/designers/maud-akkermans
Video for Part 5: Sleigh
I created a full walk-thru for this design. You will likely want to create a project more than a single repeat wide (perhaps 4 or 5 repeats for a blanket-width).
I believe the video works best in tandum with the written pattern or chart.
Full Sleigh Pattern
You can view the full pattern and chart here on my website.
Jump back to the top of the page if you’d rather download the free PDF from Ravelry or use the YouTube video.
Your yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted; just make sure your hook is an appropriate size for your yarn. It will, of course, affect the finished size of your project and the yardage required.
If you share your works on Instagram, tag me: @ashleeslint
Christmas CAL Blanket
This pattern is designed in conjunction with other 2022 Christmas CAL sections, so it is very likely that you will be joining to another project.
If this is a new project, you will need to crochet the foundation row (row 0). This row is shown on the chart in grey (but you would use the same color as the rows shown in white).
If you are joining to a previous section in this CAL, you will skip row 0 and start at row 1.
Important Details
- US crochet terminology
- Chart is 48 x 30
- Gauge: 14 sc blo stitches x 15 rows = 4”
- 5 mm hook (H-8)
- Worsted weight yarn (100 yards per repeat)
- Color A (the sleigh) – 50 yards
- Color B (the background) – 50 yards
Key (US terminology)
Color A: the design color, the sleigh; blue in chart
Color B: the background color; white in chart
ch = chain
SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook
sc = SC into Back Loop only
FSC = foundation single crochet: chain 2, insert hook in first chain, *yarn over and pull a loop through, yarn over and pull through one loop (chain made), yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops (SC made); to make the next stitch insert your hook into the chain made previously and repeat from *
DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice
dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below
JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet
ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly
All the single crochets in the body of the pattern will be going through the BACK LOOP ONLY (BLO).
All the dropped double crochets in an overlay mosaic crochet pattern go into the FRONT LOOP ONLY, two rows below. See red dot in image above.
Mosaic Technique
Please see the YouTube video for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending, as well as a balancing stitch. You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.
- The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
- You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
- You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
- Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to fringe, like on scarf)
- Yarn colors can be anything you like
- They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
- They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
- I prefer using a foundation SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
- Even-numbered rows use Color B; odd-numbered rows use Color A
Pattern Starts Here
Optional Foundation Row (Row 0): use Color B (shown as grey on the chart)
Use a foundation SC technique to create repeats of 48 + 3 SC. Or chain repeats of 48 + 4, SC in 2nd from hook and SC all the way back across. Cut and tie off.
For 2 repeats wide you’ll need 99 fsc (or chain 100, turn and do 99 sc back).
For 3 repeats you’ll need 147 fsc. For 4 repeats you’ll need 195 fsc. For 5 repeats you’ll need 243 fsc. And so on.
Switch to Color A and continue to row 1.
If you’re adding onto a previously worked project, start at row 1.
{Even-numbered rows use Color B; odd-numbered rows use Color A}
Color A = the sleigh, Color B = the background
JS, ES, and balancing stitch after the asterisk (*) is not shown on the chart.
Repeat between the asterisks.
1 – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES
2 – JS, *dc48*, dc1, ES
3 – JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES
4 – JS, *dc5, sc40, dc3*, dc1, ES
5 – JS, *sc5, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc22, dc1, sc10*, sc1, ES
6 – JS, *dc4, sc2, dc8, sc1, dc22, sc1, dc10*, dc1, ES
7 – JS, *sc4, dc1, sc9, dc1, sc22, dc1, sc10*, sc1, ES
8 – JS, *dc4, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc34, dc5*, dc1, ES
9 – JS, *sc4, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2, dc1, sc1, dc8, sc1, dc7, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc6, sc1, dc1, sc6*, sc1, ES
10 – JS, *dc4, sc3, dc1, sc19, dc1, sc14, dc6*, dc1, ES
11 – JS, *sc8, dc7, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc5, dc2, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc5, sc6*, sc1, ES
12 – JS, *dc7, sc20, dc1, sc4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc6*, dc1, ES
13 – JS, *sc7, dc3, sc1, dc2, (sc1, dc4) x2, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc2, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc6*, sc1, ES
14 – JS, *dc6, sc4, dc1, sc23, dc1, sc7, dc6*, dc1, ES
15 – JS, *sc6, dc2, sc5, dc3, sc2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc2, sc5, dc5, sc6*, sc1, ES
16 – JS, *dc6, sc4, dc1, sc5, dc2, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc7, dc6*, dc1, ES
17 – JS, *sc6, dc4, sc1, dc4, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc2, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc6*, sc1, ES
18 – JS, *dc6, sc9, dc3, sc1, dc5, sc1, dc2, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc6*, dc1, ES
19 – JS, *sc7, dc6, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc4, sc1, dc3, (sc1, dc2) x2, sc6*, sc1, ES
20 – JS, *dc3, sc3, dc1, sc6, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc7, dc3, sc14, dc6*, dc1, ES
21 – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc2, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc12, sc6*, sc1, ES
22 – JS, *dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc2, sc4, dc2, sc7, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc12, dc6*, dc1, ES
23 – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc4, dc3, sc4, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc2, (dc3, sc1) x2, dc3, sc6*, sc1, ES
24 – JS, *dc3, sc3, dc1, sc4, dc4, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc8, sc1, dc2, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc6*, dc1, ES
25 – JS, *sc4, dc2, sc1, dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc8, dc1, sc3, dc4, sc5, dc1, sc6*, sc1, ES
26 – JS, *dc4, sc6, dc5, sc1, dc3, sc10, dc3, sc6, dc1, sc3, dc6*, dc1, ES
27 – JS, *sc5, dc4, sc6, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc11, dc5, sc1, dc2, sc7*, sc1, ES
28 – JS, *dc5, sc4, dc6, sc7, dc11, sc8, dc7*, dc1, ES
29 – JS, *sc34, dc2, sc1, dc3, sc8*, sc1, ES
30 – JS, *dc34, sc6, dc8*, dc1, ES
Trim the fringe, if needed.
Continue with the next section in this CAL.
#MosaicChristmasCAL
X-Marked Chart Instructions
How to Use the Chart
- Start at the bottom right corner & read each row from right to left (opposite if you’re left-handed).
- Join new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut your yarn at the end of every row.
- Each square represents one stitch, the chart is 48 stitches wide and should be repeated to get your desired width.
- NOT shown on the chart: Joining Stitch (JS), balancing stitch, and End Stitch (ES). The balancing stitch should be done before doing your ES, just repeat column 1.
- All even-numbered rows – starting with the foundation row 0 – use Color B (background color). This is white on the chart.
- The first row (row 0) is grey because it is optional; if you are joining this to something already made you skip row 0 and begin at row 1.
- The first row (row 0) can be made using foundation single crochet or by chaining one more than required (for turning space) and single crochet back.
- Odd-numbered rows use Color A (the design). This is blue on the chart.
- Regardless of the square’s color, you work a single crochet in the Back Loop Only unless you see an “X”; an “X” tells you to create a dropped double crochet.