The Paw Purse: Part 2

April 2024 Crochet-A-Long

We started this CAL on April 19, 2024; but you can crochet this bag whenever you’d like because this written pattern will remain free online or you can purchase the pattern in it’s entirety (including the x-marked chart) from Ravelry or Etsy.

Get The Paw Purse: Free or Paid

The Paw Purse is available on Ravelry and Etsy as a nice prinatable PDF with the fully written patterns and chart for both of my favorite colorwork techniques (interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet).

The writtens patterns will be forever-free here on my website!

Thank you for supporting me in whichever way works best for you!

Interlocking & Mosaic Crochet Options

The current page you’re on is ONLY for the interlocking crochet version of this design.

There is also an overlay mosaic crochet version.

Automatic Discount

For the rest of my Designaversary month all my Crochet-A-Longs are automatically 40% off. This new CAL is included!

No code needed, offer ends April 30, 2024.


We are crocheting this purse in the round (as a tube) which may be a new technique for a lot of you. I’ve shown the first 7 rounds on the first support video to help you get started.

This second part of the CAL will allow us to finish the sack, add a strap, and add an optional button closure. A second support video will help you through those steps!

If you’ve missed the beginning of this pattern or need a refresher of the KEY please head back to part one.

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I also have a free photo tutorial in PDF form on this technique available in my Facebook group (Ashlee Brotzell Designs) and on Ravelry

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Blue crocheted purse with red paw design. Small red button at the top of the bag.

The wrong side (or inside) of your interlocking crochet The Paw Purse will look almost like the opposite of the right side.

The colors get inverted but the stitches change too. The most noticeable change in this design is the missing hearts – they turn into weird lines instead.

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You’ll also have access to my Doctor Who blanket pattern!

To Recap

In part one we looked at the foundation and the first 24 rounds. There is information on the yarn yardage you’ll need, the interlocking crochet technique, and an informative key.

Continuing from Part One

We finished round 24 last time. We were using the main color (MC) and we were working with the wrong side (WS) facing us. We do not turn our work yet, but we do switch to using the accent color (AC) now.

25 AC – *7B, 3F, 1B, 3F, 5B*, (MCF), join.


26 MC – *5B, 8F, 6B*, (ACF), join.

27 AC – *1F, (MCB), 5F, 3B, 1F, 3B, 4F, 2B*, join.


28 MC (ACB) – *(1F, 1B) x2, 3F, 8B, 4F*, join.

29 AC – *1B, 1F, 5B, 3F, 1B, 3F, 5B*, (MCF), join.


30 MC – *6B, 2F, 2B, 2F, 4B, 2F, 1B*, (ACF), join.

31 AC – *1F, (MCB), 6F, 1B, 3F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 1F*, join.


32 MC (ACB) – *4F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 12F*, join.

33 AC – *1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 9B, 2F, 2B*, (MCF), join.


34 MC – *2B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 9B, 3F, 1B, 1F*, (ACF), join.

35 AC – *1F, (MCB), 3F, 1B, 10F, 1B, 2F, 1B*, join.


36 MC (ACB) – *2F, 2B, 12F, 2B, 1F*, join.

37 AC – *2B, 1F, 13B, 1F, 2B*, (MCF), join.

Cut and tie off AC. Weave in end.


38 MC – *19B*, join.

Do not cut your yarn yet.

When we get to the end of round 38 we will have a sack that is very open at the top. Not only is the sack itself open but the layers are wide open at this point!

Top Locking Border

This may be a new process for you. View the step-by-step instructions on my second support video (use the time stamps if you’d like to skip to what you need):

Single crochet through both the MC and AC layers all the way around.

When the AC layer has a dc, go through the dc as normal and also go into the MC window behind it.

When the AC layer has a chain, use the Back Loop Only and also go into the MC dc behind it.

Cut and tie off MC.

An optional way to close off the sack:

Invisible join = after completing your final stitch of the round, cut your yarn (leaving a tail long enough to weave the ends in) and pull the loose end all the way through the loop on your hook. Thread yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert needle into the first stitch of the round under the loops where you would put your hook if you were doing a normal stitch into that stitch. Then bring the needle back down through the final stitch of the round

Finishing Touches

You now have a little sack.

It’s not quite a purse yet.

You’ll need to create a strap or handle. I like to make mine long enough for a cross-body bag.

You can also add a button closure to keep the top from gaping wide open.

If you’re really industrious you could line your bag or add a zipper closure. My tutorial doesn’t go that far.

Bottom Seam

If your tube is not yet joined at the bottom now would be a good time to flatten your bag, making sure the design is lined up on the front and back the way you want it, and then sew the bottom shut.

Bag Strap

View on second support video:

I added a single cross-body shoulder strap using a Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS). I like using this stitch because it’s a fun way to practice an interesting technique and because I like how sturdy it is.

You can easily adjust how long your strap is by adjusting how many rows you do. The amount of rows you do will also depend on which yarn weight you’re using because it takes less rows to get a 30″ strap when you’re using a thicker yarn.

Regardless of yarn weight used, I made my strap 5 stitches wide. Row count is listed below.

Make sure your bag is lying completely flat and straight before joining the straps on.

Fingering Weight

For the fine weight yarn, I did 231 rows of TKS. It is 32” / 82cm from end to end. From shoulder to the bag top it is 16” / 41cm.

It is 0.75” / 1.9cm wide.

Worsted Weight

For the medium weight yarn, I did 151 rows of TKS. It is 33” / 84cm from end to end. From shoulder to the bag top it is 16.5” / 42cm.

It is 1” / 2.5cm wide.

TKS = Tunisian Knit Stitch: working between the vertical bars, insert your hook through the center of the two bars and under the chain, yarn over and pull up a loop

Optional Button Closure

There are two parts to this: the button and the loop.

Choose a button that matches your colors and is a good size for your bag. Sew it on in the middle of your front panel near the top. If you have a very large button, you may need to sew the center of it onto the 2nd row down from the top of your bag. A small button can be sewn onto the 1st row from the top of the bag.

Crochet a loop that is large enough to go around your button but small enough to stay secure. For this small button, I chained 7 and then sewed the loop onto the other side of the bag.

Loop size depends on which button you choose to use!

You did it!

That completes part two of The Paw Purse CAL.

Congratulations! Show off your adorable Paw Purse with pride! #ThePawPurse

But beware, there have been many reports of crocheters being asked to make another because they’re just so cute!