Many Hearts Baby Throw Blanket

Before I jump into the details on my newest pattern (which is really a remake of an old pattern), let me tell you that I am having a FALL SALE on everything in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop until the end of September! Get 25% off, no Codes needed!

Many moons ago (that’s a funny saying, isn’t it?) I came out with an eBook called “Hearts, Hearts, Hearts” and I put an assortment of squares of different sizes and designs in it. The largest pattern in the eBook was my “Many Hearts Throw“.

Anonymous crocheted this sweet blue and white version of the large throw blanket.

By request, I have now created a baby-blanket-size version of this throw. The original throw is 70″ square and the new baby blanket is 38″ square. You can see that the corners are the same but the repeated hearts section inside is smaller.

I used the interlocking crochet technique for my sample because I like the way the back looks (mosaic crochet produces stripes on the wrong side but interlocking crochet shows these hearts pointing the other direction). This lavender purple is being used as my main color (MC) in the pattern. Most of my patterns use the darker color as the first color used, or the Main Color in the pattern.

I also made a super fun little video clip because Etsy tells me people like to see videos and Instagram’s algorithms are really pushing for us to use videos instead of photos, so here’s my attempt at fitting in. It was actually an accident that I started recording a video. I meant to press the button to capture a photo and somehow I bumped the thing that changed it to a video instead and that’s when I remembered that I need to try using videos anyway. This is not the kind of video I consider to be award-winning. It’s just to meet algorithm madness and try to get better organic reach. I don’t pay for ads or subscribers, I prefer to keep my followers as a list of people who actually want to see my stuff.

Video of a blanket hanging on a fence near a tree

I spent a lot of time debating internally whether this pattern deserved its own Ravelry listing or if it should just be added to the Many Hearts Throw as a size difference. I ultimately decided that since the various sizes of “Many Hearts” all have their own listings then this blanket can have its own as well.

I have turned on a permanent promotion that allows you to get this baby blanket free if you’ve purchased the larger throw blanket on Ravelry. And, of course, I have added it as a late addition to the “Hearts, Hearts, Hearts” eBook so if you already have that eBook then you will now have this new baby blanket as well. I didn’t have all of these patterns listed on Etsy previously so that’s a new thing here too.

This eBook has also *finally* been updated to include the x-marked charts for mosaic crochet. There are 15 patterns in this set and while I’ve been busy updating all my patterns I did leave the “hard” tasks for last. The eBooks just feel like so much more work than the individual patterns. I still need to update the Alphabet eBooks and the Holiday eBook.

I hope to create a YouTube tutorial on using these charts marked with X’s, but for now I only have written instructions.

Also, a side note: the smallest square, “Tutorial Hearts“, is the one I used in my videos to teach the interlocking crochet method (Locked Filet Mesh / LFM) and overlay mosaic crochet method.

I also made this neat photo signature business card thing. At one point I had planned on going to graphic design school and I love how I get to build some of those skills while I turn my crochet hobby into a business! So many avenues to explore!

Summer Direction CAL: Sections 11 and 12

Today is my birthday! My kids got me three giant balls of soft jumbo blanket yarn. It was not a surprise, hahaha, because dad didn’t hide it well! I have a ball of neon green, and two balls of neon pink. Now, what to make with it?

Of course, since I am a mom, I made the cake myself (Remi helped me with the sprinkles), I didn’t get photos of any of the festivities, and I am left with the clean up. 🙃

I remember in high school some kids would take the day off when it was their birthday. Their birthday was the most important event of the year for them. No way were they working their part time job after school on that day. “Me-time” to the max!

For me it has usually just been another day. I feel uncomfortable when everyone stares at me and expects me to blow out the candles. I get nervous that I won’t have the appropriate surprise-and-thank-you reaction. I like the kids’ birthdays better. That’s fun for me.

This year I tried to enjoy the moments but I need to sneak in a little bit of “work” now. My crochet stuff is sort of work, sort of hobby, sort of my favorite thing but also has random deadlines and can sometimes be stressful. So, it is “work” now.

The next two sections in my Summer Direction CAL don’t require much from me (I did all the real work earlier) so I am posting this even though it is my birthday and then I will go crochet some more! We need to replicate the opposite of the chevrons that were at the beginning of the project, so we are doing Chevron B twice. If you’re doing overlay mosaic crochet then you simply repeat the section. If you are using the interlocking crochet technique (what I call Locked Filet Mesh / LFM) then you need to first do Chevron B starting with the Wrong Side (WS) and then do Chevron B starting with the Right Side (RS).

After this we only have the final border lines and the finishing touch: an envelope border on the mosaic piece or a simple single crochet border on the interlocking. That section will be published in only a couple days – I am determined to finish this Summer Direction Crochet-A-Long before Summer ends (the fall equinox is on September 21 I think).

If you’d rather not wait for all the free releases (or you’re desperate for the charts), you can grab a FULL copy of the pattern and charts on Etsy or Ravelry. Get 50% off your purchase of “Summer Direction CAL” on Etsy and Ravelry until September 30, 2021 by using code “SUMMER2021”!

In case you were skimming through all of that, scroll back up and do Chevron B for mosaic for section 11 and 12. And do Chevron B (WS) for section 11 of the LFM and Chevron B (RS) for section 12!

By the way, I have been enjoying all the birthday love in my Facebook group, thanks everyone!

Summer Direction CAL for Overlay Mosaic Crochet

This is my 5th Crochet-A-Long (CAL) since I started designing just over a year ago. My first CAL was some large flower squares for Mother’s Day 2020. Then I did a Father’s Day CAL of scarves that joined together to create a blanket. My third CAL was the Abstract Queen; it was the first one to be available with written instructions for both interlocking and overlay mosaic crochet (before that, the other CALs were just interlocking crochet, but they have been updated since then to include both techniques). A few months ago we did the MusicCAL (which had an easier and smaller repeat section compared to the Abstract Queen CAL). I also contributed to the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL, but since I didn’t host that one I don’t consider it one of “MY” Crochet-A-Longs.

You can find the links for all my Crochet-A-Longs (CALs) in one place here: https://ashleeslint.com/cals/

All of the images below (showing each of my previous CALs) use the interlocking crochet technique. Overlay Mosaic Crochet will produce the same images but you will have to deal with the tails on the sides from cutting and joining your yarn each row.

My newest CAL, the Summer Direction CAL, like all of my patterns now, is written up for two different techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. This CAL has video walk-thrus for both techniques! That’s the big new thing about this pattern. I have also been updating all of my patterns to include charts marked with X’s for mosaic crochet – so this pattern includes those X’s.

You are viewing the landing page for the OVERLAY MOSAIC CROCHET version of the Summer Direction CAL. You may also wish to go to the interlocking crochet landing page. I also pre-released the yardage charts, but those charts are also in this post.

I created a video walk-thru for each section in this Summer Direction CAL! I began in the winter and I figured I would definitely be ready by summer. I know it is nearing the end of August now but IT IS STILL SUMMER! I insist on not living for pumpkin spice yet! Slow down, people!

The written instructions can be found FREE here online (one section released at a time) or you can purchase a nice PDF of the entire pattern (including a plain chart for interlocking and a chart marked with X’s for mosaic as well as links to each YouTube walk-thru for every section) on Etsy or Ravelry.

Get 50% off when you use code, “SUMMER2021” (offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, September 30, 2021; valid on Etsy and Ravelry on the pattern “Summer Direction CAL” only).


Summer Direction CAL – Overlay Mosaic Crochet

Before we get started, brush up on your technique! If you’re new to mosaic crochet, you may want to check out my tutorials first! Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel to get notified when the videos are live! You can also subscribe to my mailing list and / or subscribe directly to the blog (there should be a spot to enter your email in the side bar).

Section 1 – Foundation Rows

The first section is very short. It is aptly called, “Foundation Rows” and we will decide how wide our project is going to be and how much yarn we will need. The YouTube video does not include information on yardage so please see the written portion for that!

Section 2 – Chevron A

This Chevron goes down and then up.

Section 3 – Chevron A

This section is the same thing as the previous section. Your row numbers will be different (your project will be at row 15 but the video and written portion will say row 5) so use some stitch markers to help you keep track!

Section 4 – Dark Arrows

These arrows are solid (of course, you may note, that my mosaic patterns all have these dots in the solid areas – I design first for the interlocking technique and it creates these gaps. I like the way our eyes still see a solid arrow and there are no flaps created by long sections of Dropped Double Crochets). There is a section later on that looks almost the same – however it is actually a reversed or mirrored image.

Section 5 – Chevron A

If you’ve been following the pattern as written, we are now at row 49. However, this section is identical to rows 5-14. Both the video and the written pattern will begin with row 5 and go through row 14. You may wish to use a stitch marker to mark row 49 so that you remember it counts as the beginning of this section.

Section 6 – Chevron B

This chevron differs from Chevron “A” because it goes up and then down instead of down and then up.

Section 7 – Light Arrows

These arrows are hollow, just the outline is drawn. This is our halfway point!

Section 8 – Chevron A

This section is identical to an earlier section so the YouTube video shows rows 5-14 while we are actually crocheting rows 95-104.

Section 9 – Chevron B

These Chevrons mirror the ones we just did in section 8. They are the same as rows 59-70 but we are on rows 105-116.

Section 10 – Dark Arrows Reversed

These look very similar to those dark arrows at the beginning of our project but their direction is actually reversed. Or perhaps a mirror-image is a better way to think of it. Either way, there’s a NEW YouTube video to accompany this section.

Section 11 – Chevron B

You are almost a pro at this crochet stuff by now! If you still need to reference the video please re-watch the section that covers rows 59-70. And, remember, the written portion also says 59-70 even though we are actually on rows 141-150 at this point.

Section 12 – Chevron B

Yes, this section is the same as the section before this. We’ve done this already, so you know what to do: follow the YouTube video for rows 59-70 or follow with the written pattern (our project is now at rows 151-160).

Section 10 – Top Border Lines

We are now finishing off the pattern with the final rows that match the beginning foundation rows. Instructions for a single crochet envelope border are included in the video. A link to a photo tutorial for my lazy double crochet envelope border is at the end of the written instructions.

This space will be updated with each new section release (with a link to the written section online and the YouTube tutorial for that section).

We are all done updating things! That’s the whole pattern – done!


Overlay Mosaic Crochet Pattern

Let’s get started, shall we?

Remember, the written instructions can be found FREE here online or you can purchase a nice PDF of the entire pattern (including the X-marked chart) on Etsy or Ravelry. Get 50% off when you use code, “SUMMER2021” (offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, September 30, 2021).

To create a full-sized blanket, do 9 repeats for the width. You repeat the stitches between the stars as many times as you want. Each repeat will add about 4.5” in width. Each line may have brackets which you repeat the designated number of times, and the stars denote the sections you repeat based on how wide you want your project; like this:

JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, *sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7*, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

To expand the brackets, it looks like this: JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, *sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7*, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

For a 2-width repeat, it will look like: JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, sc8, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

Yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted, just keep in mind your finished project will use a different amount of yarn and be a different finished size. A gauge swatch can help with that.

Foundation stitches and repeats, and yarn usage

To figure out how many stitches you start with: (four and nine repeats are just examples, you can use any number of repeats)

Mosaic FoundationSingle widthFour repeatsNine repeats
Finished Size (41” height includes all the sections of the original designs)6.5” x 41”20” x 41”42” x 41”
Chainless SC Foundation Repeats of 18 + 9(1 x 18) + 9 = (18) + 9 = 27(4 x 18) + 9 = (72) + 9 = 81(9 x 18) + 9 = (162) + 9 = 171
Or, chain and SC back Add 1 to the final number above27 + 1 = 2881 + 1 = 82171 + 1 = 172

When determining yardage, I design for two colors: Main Color and Contrasting Color. You could do a gauge swatch to get a more accurate representation of your yarn and personal gauge but if you’d like to use my estimates keep in mind I use a 4.5 mm hook and a thicker worsted weight yarn (4 – medium).

Mosaic YardageSingle widthFour repeatsNine repeats
Yardage Per color = base + repeats60 + (120) = 18060 + (120 x 4) = 54060 + (120 x 9) = 1140
Plus optional envelope border = base + repeats275 + (25) = 300275 + (25 x 4) = 375275 + (25 x 9) = 500
Total Yardage = first line x 2 (for MC and AC), plus optional border180 x 2 = 360 + 300 = 660540 x 2 = 1080 + 375 = 14551140 x 2 = 2280 + 500 = 2780

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Full blanket chart 169 x 165
  • Single width chart 25 x 165, repeat width 18
  • Full blanket measurements approximately 42” x 41”
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (Blanket: 2280-2780 yards)
    • Main color – 1140 yards
    • Contrasting color – 1140 yards
    • Plus optional envelope border – 500 yards
  • Gauge: 16 stitches x 16 rows = 4”

Key

MC = Main Color: black in chart
CC = Contrasting Color: white in chart
Sp = space
Sk = skip a stitch
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
sc = SC into Back Loop only
DC = double crochet
dc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows below
JS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same space
ES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique.

  • Remember to skip the same number of stitch(es) behind your dc(s) before doing your next sc
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
    • My charts use black as the Main Color and white as the Coordinating Color
  • I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
  • Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Foundation Row (Row 0): use Main Color (MC) (black on the chart)

Use a chainless SC technique to create repeats of 18 +9 SC. Or, chain repeats of 18 +10, SC in 2nd from hook and all the way back across. Cut and tie off. See the chart with more details.

Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}

Repeat between the stars 9 times for a blanket.

1 – JS, sc4, *sc18*, sc3, ES

2 – JS, dc1, sc3, *sc18*, sc2, dc1, ES

3 – JS, sc4, *sc18*, sc3, ES

4 – JS, (dc1, sc1) x2, *sc18*, dc1, sc1, dc1, ES

The foundation rows can be a bit boring with all the counting. I apologize. It will be worth it!

Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel to get notified when the videos are live! You can also subscribe to my mailing list and / or subscribe directly to the blog (there should be a spot to enter your email in the side bar).


© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

Summer Direction CAL for Interlocking Crochet

This is my 5th Crochet-A-Long (CAL) since I started designing about a year ago. My first CAL was some large flower squares for Mother’s Day 2020. Then I did a Father’s Day CAL of scarves that joined together to create a blanket. My third CAL was the Abstract Queen; it was the first one to be available with written instructions for both interlocking and overlay mosaic crochet (before that, the other CALs were just interlocking crochet, but they have been updated since then to include both techniques). A few months ago we did the MusicCAL (which had an easier and smaller repeat section compared to the Abstract Queen CAL). I also contributed to the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL, but since I didn’t host that one I don’t consider it one of “MY” Crochet-A-Longs.

You can find the links for all my Crochet-A-Longs (CALs) in one place here: https://ashleeslint.com/cals/

My newest CAL, the Summer Direction CAL, like all of my patterns now, is written up for two different techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. This CAL has video walk-thrus for both techniques! That’s the big new thing about this pattern.

This is the landing page for the INTERLOCKING CROCHET method of my Summer Direction CAL. It is also available on the overlay mosaic landing page. I did pre-release the yardage charts, but you can also view them here on this post.

If you’re new to interlocking crochet, you may want to check out my tutorials first! I call this technique Locked Filet Mesh as well – they mean the same thing. You’ll find other designers call it all sorts of things (Interdimensional Crochet, Wacky Weave Crochet, etc).

I created a video walk-thru for each section in this Summer Direction CAL! It was a bigger job than I expected and it put me behind schedule so I almost didn’t get this ready before the end of summer! And, you may find that as you learn the technique you prefer to just read the written instructions and don’t even need my videos – that’s ok!

The written instructions can be found FREE here online (one section released at a time) or you can purchase a nice PDF of the entire pattern (including a plain chart for interlocking and a chart marked with X’s for mosaic as well as links to each YouTube walk-thru for every section) on Etsy or Ravelry.

Get 50% off when you use code, “SUMMER2021” (offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, September 30, 2021, valid on Etsy and Ravelry for the pattern “Summer Direction CAL” only).

My single-width samples for the YouTube videos!

Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel to get notified when the videos are live! You can also subscribe to my mailing list and / or subscribe directly to the blog (there should be a spot to enter your email in the side bar).


Summer Direction CAL – Interlocking Crochet

Section 1 – Foundation Rows

The first section is very short. It is aptly called, “Foundation Rows” and we will decide how wide our project is going to be and how much yarn we will need. The YouTube video does not include information on yardage so please see the written portion for that!

Section 2 – Chevron A (WS)

It is important when doing a project in interlocking crochet that you pay attention to the wrong side and right side. This section continues from where we left off, and thus we are first looking at the wrong side (WS).

Section 3 – Chevron A (RS)

Like mentioned earlier, it is important when doing a project in interlocking crochet that you pay attention to the wrong side and right side. This section begins when looking at the right side (RS).

Section 4 – Dark Arrows

This section begins when looking at the Wrong Side (WS) but since my design does not use it again I HAVE NOT created a duplicate section beginning with the Right Side (RS). There is a section later on that looks almost the same – however it is actually a reversed or mirrored image.

Section 5 – Chevron A (WS)

If you’ve been following the pattern as written, we are now at row 49. However, this section is identical to rows 5-14. Both the video and the written pattern will begin with row 5 and go through row 14. You may wish to use a stitch marker to mark row 49 so that you remember it counts as the beginning of this section.

Section 6 – Chevron B (RS)

This chevron differs from Chevron “A” because it goes up and then down instead of down and then up. This section begins with us looking at the Right Side (RS).

Section 7 – Light Arrows

These arrows are hollow, just the outline is drawn. This is our halfway point!

Section 8 – Chevron A (RS)

This section is identical to an earlier section so the written portion and the YouTube video shows rows 15-24 while we are actually crocheting rows 95-104.

Section 9 – Chevron B (WS)

This is the first time we have crocheted the “B” chevron starting with the Wrong Side (WS) facing us so there is a NEW YouTube video for you to watch!

Section 10 – Dark Arrows Reversed

These look very similar to those dark arrows at the beginning of our project but their direction is actually reversed. Or perhaps a mirror-image is a better way to think of it. Either way, there’s a NEW YouTube video to accompany this section.

Section 11 – Chevron B (WS)

You might be a pro at this interlocking crochet stuff by now! If you still need to reference the video please rewatch the section that covers rows 105-116. The written portion also says rows 105-116 but if you’ve been diligently following the pattern your project will be at row 141-150.

Section 12 – Chevron B (RS)

We’ve done this chevron before, so you know what to do: follow the YouTube video for rows 59-70 or follow with the written pattern (remember, we are at rows 151-160 even though the section you are following will say rows 59-70).

Section 13 – Top Border Lines

This is barely a “section”. We are just finishing off the pattern.

This space will be updated with each new section release (with a link to the written section online and the YouTube tutorial for that section).

We are finished! No more updates!


Interlocking Crochet Pattern

I know you’ve been eager to get started, so let’s figure out some details!

Remember, the written instructions can be found FREE here online or you can purchase a nice PDF of the entire pattern (including the chart and working links to each YouTube tutorial) on Etsy or Ravelry. Get 50% off when you use code, “SUMMER2021” (offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, September 30, 2021).

To create a full-sized blanket, do 9 repeats for the width. You repeat the stitches between the stars as many times as you want. Each repeat will add about 4.5” in width. Each line has instructions between stars, like this: Ch3 in back, 1F, *2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F*, EB     

If you are doing 2 repeats you will crochet: Ch3 in back, 1F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, EB

If you repeat 3 times: Ch3 in back, 1F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, 2F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 4F, EB

When repeating the pattern 9 times your foundation rows will have 84 MC windows or chain 172, skip the turning chain and single crochet 171 back. Foundation row step 2, using AC: chain 170, then continue as described.

Take note that when using the interlocking crochet technique your stitches do not always create an opposite image on the reverse side. Due to starting on the right side or the wrong side you have different instructions to create the same image.

Yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted, just keep in mind your finished project will use a different amount of yarn and be a different finished size. A gauge swatch can help with that.

To figure out how many stitches you begin with:

I’ve done an example for 3 and 9 repeats wide but you can choose any number of repeats!

LFM FoundationScarf (single width)(3 repeats)Blanket (9 repeats)
Finished Size (41” height includes all the sections of the original designs)6.5” x 41”14” x 41”42” x 41”
MC Windows to start (repeats x 9) + 3 = windows  9 + 3 = 12 windows(3 x 9) + 3 = 30 windows(9 x 9) + 3 = 84 windows
Or MC Chains to start (windows x 2) + 4 = MC Chains  (12 x 2) + 4 = 26 chains(30 x 2) + 4 = 64 chains(84 x 2) + 4 = 172 chains
AC Chains to start (repeats x 18) + 8 = AC Chains18 + 8 = 26 chains(3 x 18) + 8 = 62 chains(9 x 18) + 8 = 170 chains

Yardage Estimates (worsted weight, gauge 16 DC x 8 rows of one color = 4”)

LFM YardageScarf (single width)(3 repeats)Blanket (9 repeats)
Yardage per color = base + repeats40 + (105) = 14540 + (105 x 3) = 35540 + (105 x 9) = 985
Optional SC Border = base + repeats20 + (3) = 2320 + (3 x 3) = 2920 + (3 x 9) = 47
Total Yards = first row x 2 (for MC and AC), plus optional border145 x 2 = 290 + 23 = 313355 x 2 = 710 + 29 = 739985 x 2 = 1970 + 47 = 2017

Important Details

  • US Crochet Terminology
  • Full blanket chart 169 x 165
  • Repeat chart is 18 squares wide (plus 7 squares for border lines) x 165 tall
  • Full blanket measurements approximately 42” x 41”
  • 4.5 mm hook (US7)
  • Worsted weight yarn (1970 – 2020 yards total for a blanket)
    • Main color (MC) – 985 yards plus 50 for optional border
    • Accent color (AC) – 985 yards
  • Gauge: 16 DC x 8 rows (of one color) = 4”

KEY

AC = accent color (usually light or multicolored)

MC = main color (usually dark)

RS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished design

WS = wrong side: the back of your project

Back = the side not facing you

Front = the side currently facing you

ch = chain

sk = skip a stitch

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* three times

B = double crochet (dc) behind, and chain 1

F = double crochet (dc) in front, and chain 1

EB = end stitch in back: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working behind MC

EF = end stitch in front: using AC, dc into the last AC window, working in front of MC

ES = end stitch: dc into the last window space

ACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

ACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing you

Foundation Rows (see chart above for help with counting)

  1. Using MC create repeats of 9 + 3 windows:
    1. I prefer the chainless technique (chain 6, dc into first stitch, chain 1, tr into same space, *chain 1, tr into 2nd part of the previous tr* repeat as many times as needed).
    1. Alternatively, you can Ch repeats of 18 + 10 (or 11 if you chain tighter than me), then DC in 6th (or 7th) chain from your hook. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC* repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
  2. With your AC, Ch repeats of 18 + 8 (or 9 if you chain tighter). Lay MC windows below this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) then pull the tail of your AC through the window on the right end (see picture above). DC through the back of the next window into the 6th (or 7th) chain from your hook.
  3. *Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through the back* repeat to end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.
The chain tail goes through the first window of the trellis.

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)  

4 MC – Ch3, 1B, *9F*, 1B, ES

Thus concludes our foundation rows! This is the tricky and sometimes frustrating part of all my projects. The foundation rows are boring, involve a lot of long counting, can get a bit twisted, and don’t look very exciting when you’re done. But this is a very important part of our project so it must be done!

Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel to get notified when the videos are live! You can also subscribe to my mailing list and / or subscribe directly to the blog (there should be a spot to enter your email in the side bar).


© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

August Gnome: Cherries

*Radio crackle and static* We interrupt your Ocean baby blanket series to return to your previously scheduled series: A Year of Monthly Gnomes! (I am totally funny, right?)

August is a busy month in my household. We have a lot of birthdays! We will celebrate my husband’s birthday! 🥳 Then a few days later my baby girl turns two! 🥳 A week later is my first daughter’s 7th birthday! 🥳

And birthdays mean cake. And cake means ice cream. And ice cream should have cherries on top!

Plus, cherries scream SUMMER to me! August means hot, summer days around here.

I was worried this design isn’t busy enough. It is definitely less busy than last month’s design. But I hope you like the simplicity of it.

Each monthly gnome on Ravelry and all of the mosaic files in the eBook have been updated now to include a chart with X’s. If you purchased any of my patterns (not just these gnomes) on Etsy and would like an updated X-marked chart please send me an email!

This listing comes with two files: an interlocking crochet pattern and chart, and an overlay mosaic crochet pattern and X-marked chart.

Overlay Mosaic sample crocheted by CarolinevdB

Here’s our master list of Gnomes so far:

We are still continuing the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL: Adventure in Mosaic Crochet and I love seeing everyone’s projects! Even if you start late you can still join in! Make sure you join the Facebook group and event for all the new FATW6 releases every Monday and Thursday: https://www.facebook.com/calcrochetalong

When I finish with this Baby Ocean series I am hoping to have a new Crochet-A-Long as well! The “Summer Direction CAL” will have video walk thru’s for both techniques! I just finished the interlocking technique and I have only one more video to do for the mosaic one. And then I have to get my webpages set up for it all. And make sure my written pattern is ready. But first, in a few days, I will have the final pattern in the Baby Ocean and Others eBook – and it’s a special one for me, so keep your eyes peeled!

Baby Sea Turtle: the 4th pattern but there will be more!

My four-year-old son LOVES sea turtles. He really like all ocean-things but there’s something special about a baby sea turtle.

For months, every time we took the (chicken) egg carton out of the fridge he would want to come play with the baby sea turtles (tv shows always show baby sea turtles hatching from their eggs). It was a bit hard to bake with him during that phase. Usually we like to make cookies and cake but it was hard for me to keep the eggs safe from his quick, but not-so-nimble hands.

This little blanket will be for him. I used my preferred technique, interlocking crochet (also called Locked Filet Mesh or LFM) because I can crochet it much quicker than when I do mosaic crochet. This blanket took me a week – I am sure some of you will be much quicker and many of you will take much longer for a blanket of this size. That’s ok!

I used a discontinued yarn for my sample. It was on clearance and I love a good bargain. The fluffy yarn I used (Premiere Pixie Dust) is considered a worsted weight yarn but the labels suggests you use a 5.5 mm hook. I really like the stitches to be quite small with interlocking crochet because it keeps those chain-gap-squares small and then the other color doesn’t show through too much, so I used a 5 mm hook.

Because it is so fluffy it does make the details of the design a bit less defined. And even though I used a 5 mm hook instead of my favorite 4.5 mm hook, I still used less than 500 yards per color. My finished square, including the simple single crochet border, is 33″ square.

You can use any weight yarn for my blankets, just make sure you use an appropriately-sized hook.

I titled this pattern “Baby Sea Turtle”, singular, but then I drew it with 3 little turtles swimming in the sea. 😬🤷‍♀️ I did the same with the dolphin pattern. The title is singular but the image shows more than one animal. One of my weird quirks, I guess.

My interlocking crochet version of “Baby Sea Turtle”

And, as always, the pattern is written up for interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. The two files each include written instructions and an appropriate chart.

The chart that is attached to the mosaic instructions has X’s where you need to do your dropped double crochets. I hope to make my own tutorial video for using the chart with X’s soon. But for now it is mostly useful for people who are already familiar with that style.

Natalie Caruso has been amazingly helpful in creating these charts with X’s for you guys. Thank you, Natalie!

If you’ve seen the previous patterns in this series, then you already know I created an eBook on Ravelry called “Baby Ocean & Others“. All of the patterns in this eBook have a chart size of 121 x 121 and have an ocean theme.

These blankets – when matching the gauge stated in the pattern – will be about 30″ square. My sample with the fluffy yarn and large hook came out to about 33″ square.

All of the patterns in my Baby Blankets section on Etsy and Ravelry are the same size.

You can get “Baby Sea Turtle” on Etsy or Ravelry. Use code, “BABY21” to get 20% off* all my baby blanket patterns!

*20% discount is valid in my Etsy Shop on Preemie Love Blanket, Feline the Deer, Many Hugs, Baby Ocean, Baby Dolphin, Baby Crab, Baby Sea Turtle, Baby Whale, Baby Fish, and Baby Ocean & Others eBook; use code “BABY21MORE”.

And in my Ravely store on Preemie Love Blanket, Feline the Deer, Many Hugs, Baby Ocean, Baby Dolphin, Baby Crab, Baby Sea Turtle, Baby Whale, Baby Fish, and Baby Ocean & Others eBook. Code “BABY21” must be used at the time of purchase, and is not retroactive. Offer ends 11:59 pm CST July 31, 2021. OFFER EXTENDED TO AUGUST 10, 2021.

And, sorry for the delay in adding Baby Crab to the list of sale patterns – I forgot it doesn’t happen automatically!

The wrong side, using interlocking crochet. If you use the mosaic technique it will be striped on the back instead.

Blooming Owl Wall Hanging

My musical husband has a guitar strap on his classical wooden guitar with these floral motifs. Everytime I see it I think of an owl.

Obviously I couldn’t just draw it as it is, but I think I captured the idea of a flowery owl in my newest wall hanging: Blooming Owl.

My husband loves it!

I used fingering weight yarn. This is also called 4-ply or 8/4 depending on where you live. Craft Council lists it as a weight 1 – super fine and states it can also be called sock yarn.

The black yarn is “110 Jet Black” Scheepjes Catona. It is 100% mercerized cotton. The small balls are only 50 grams and have 125 metres of yarn. Scheepjes suggests a 2.5 – 3.5 mm needle (I believe that specifically refers to knitting needles). I used a 2.5 mm crochet hook.

I used a full 2 balls. There was barely anything left over (see photo below). So, make sure you match my gauge or grab an extra skein. If you’re going to grab an extra one you might as well grab two! 😉

The gold yarn is actually called “Copper” (oops, it is called “Ginger”). It is from SweetGeorgia Yarns’ Tough Love Sock Yarn line. We looked online at YarnCanada.ca and I gave Mitch a few options. He said this color was “it” and he didn’t care that it was also the most expensive.

It comes in a twisted hank of 115 grams which gives you 425 yards of soft, silky wool. I only used half the skein.

It cost me $3.65 CAD per ball of Catona, so $7.30 total (but I did buy a 3rd ball just in case). The Tough Love Sock yarn was $33.95 but I only used half, so it cost me about $17 for this project. It felt really expensive to buy the fancy color Mitch wanted but it was so worth it because this is just beautiful to look at.

It was my first time using my fancy yarn swift! It is fun having toys! This is one of the more expensive things I own (related to yarn crafts). I don’t usually buy yarn that comes twisted because it just gets all tangled up. This was easy to set up and I turned the hank into a cake in a few short minutes!

The “Tough Love Sock Yarn” is 80% merino wool with 20% polyamide. Because it is a hand-dyed yarn it gives my finished piece a sort of mottled look where the dying process created slightly different shades in the yarn.

Like all of my patterns, this pattern is written for my two favorite techniques: interlocking crochet and overlay mosaic crochet. You can choose to use your favorite method or you can try something new!

I used the mosaic method because I wanted the fringe on the bottom and I wanted to use the strings at the top to attach the wooden dowel. I created a short YouTube tutorial with some tricks for attaching the dowel.

YouTube tutorial: Adding a Dowel

If you use interlocking crochet for your project you can add fringe to the bottom and whipstitch the dowel to the top. Instructions are included in the PDF pattern.

Both techniques work the design starting at the top-right corner going down to the bottom-right corner. I designed it to sideways because of the mosaic fringe.

The PDF includes written line-by-line instructions for both techniques and two charts; one is marked with x’s for overlay mosaic crochet. I haven’t created a YouTube video on how to use the x-marked charts yet. I have only just started updating my patterns to include a marked chart.

The other chart can be used for both techniques and I have tutorials on YouTube for that!

Grab your copy of my “Blooming Owl Wall Hanging” on Etsy or Ravelry and get 15% off your entire cart*!

*no code needed, offer ends 11:59 pm, CST, July 13, 2021.

Pin this! https://pin.it/6jorpDe

FATW6: Mosaic Coral Strip

Introduction

This is a pattern for an overlay mosaic crochet strip that belongs in the Friends Around the World 6th Anniversary CAL (FATW6) “Adventures in Mosaic Crochet” hosted by CAL – Crochet A Long. Links to all past and future patterns can be found on their blog: https://calcrochetalong.com and you can join their facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/668646249929007/

My section (this Mosaic Coral Strip) can be found here on the blog (scroll down) or downloaded on Ravelry: https://ravel.me/mosaic-coral-strip

You can also crochet with my YouTube video to guide you! Please note: the video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row; see my other YouTube tutorial on creating a Mosaic Foundation: https://youtu.be/RqgmJQMaB7A for more information.

When I first designed this piece I didn’t know I would be the first section in the blanket. That’s why my Coral video mentions that you will be joining to a project you already have. But I have created a video on crocheting the foundation rows now!

Quick Bio

I published my first pattern less than a year ago (April 1, 2020) and, honestly, that was a dream come true! My grandmother taught me to crochet when I was about 8 years old, and it has been a favorite hobby of mine in an on-again-off-again kind of way. I finished my first blanket in high school and created a few projects over the years to fit my needs (how about a bag that fits this book exactly and nothing else).

Three years ago, I picked up my hooks in earnest again as a coping method after the traumatic delivery of my son. Crocheting – and now, pattern designing, too – are therapy for me. I am so grateful to everyone who has supported me and made it a little easier to stay at home with my 3 beautiful children.

I was also able to achieve another dream of mine in April 2021: I got published in a magazine! My Eiffel Tower Wall Hanging can be found in Crochet Now! Magazine, issue 68. I feel a little famous now!

The Coral Strip

I love how wiggly and intricate coral can look. It is almost abstract enough that if you didn’t know it was called “Coral” you might just think it was random lines.

My single repeat used 30 g of yarn (Medium 4 – worsted weight, acrylic). I used Caron Kindness in Tomato and Robin’s Egg Blue because it was what I had on hand. Unfortunately, this is a discontinued yarn. You can use any yarn medium (4) weight yarn. If you’d like some suggestions, try Yarnsub.com for a list of similar yarns.

Like the other patterns in this CAL, each repeat is 48 stitches wide. An extra stitch is added at the beginning of each row, and two extra stitches are added to the end. Each designer may have different ways of explaining things but all the pieces in this CAL are designed to work together!

My chart does not show those extra 3 stitches (the joining stitch, balancing stitch, and end stitch), it only shows the repeated section.

Chart is included in the ravelry download

If you share your works on Instagram, I would love for you to tag me: @AshleesLint

YouTube

I created a YouTube video to go with this pattern! You can see each stitch being done and crochet with me! Please note: the Coral video does not show the foundation rows. You can add sections onto each other, but if this is your first section you must start with a foundation row.

Foundation Row YouTube Video

Don’t forget to like and subscribe to my YouTube channel!

Mosaic Coral Strip YouTube Video

Important Details

  • US crochet terminology
  • Chart is 48 x 19, add 1 extra stitch at the beginning of each row and 2 extra stitches at the end of each row. Repeat is 48 + 3 stitches wide.
  • 5 mm hook (H-8)
  • 18 g / 21 yards of Main Color (MC) = coral
  • 12 g / 30 yards of Contrasting Color (CC) = light blue
  • One repeat finishes at 10” x 4” / 26 x 10 cm
  • Gauge: 18 stitches x 18 rows = 4” / 10 cm

Key (US terminology)

MC = Main Color: coral in chart

CC = Contrasting Color: light blue in chart

ch = chain

SC = single crochet: insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook

sc = SC into Back Loop only

DC = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, *yarn over, pull through two loops* twice

dc = dropped double crochet: skip next single crochet, and instead double crochet into Front Loop of stitch in the row below

JS = Joining Stitch: create slip knot, insert hook under both loops, complete a normal single crochet

ES = End Stitch: single crochet under both loops, chain 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic Technique

Please see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending (for this pattern only, add an extra balancing stitch at the end of each row before doing the “ES = end stitch”). You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

dc = the dropped DC goes into the same-colored stitch, 2 rows below, front loop only. Skip the (pink) single crochet behind this dc.
sc = a single crochet in the body of this pattern goes into the back loop only
  • The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
  • You are always working from the right to the left (opposite for left-handed crocheters)
  • You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
    • Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half (unless you want to use them as fringe, like on scarf)
  • Yarn colors can be anything you like
    • They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
    • They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
  • Odd-numbered rows use MC (coral), even-numbered rows use CC (light blue)

Optional “Locked Double Crochet”

To prevent the small flaps on the back of your work, consider locking-in your stitch.

Begin like a dropped double crochet: skip the next stitch, and work into the Front Loop of the stitch in the row below; yarn over, insert hook into front loop below (see first image below), pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, insert hook into back loop of skipped stitch (see second image below), yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Time to start crocheting!

(There was an error with this blog but it has been fixed! I am so sorry! And majorly embarrassed 🙈)

Row 1 can be your foundation row OR you can add it to another section.

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

Foundation Row:

Row 1 MC – Can use a chainless single crochet foundation or you can chain the desired number of stitches, plus one for turning chain. Turn, skip turning chain, single crochet into each chain.

Repeats of 48 +3 = desired number of stitches

For example, if you want to repeat the design twice: (48 x 2) + 3 = 99 sc needed (chain 99 + 1 = 100, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 99)

Or, if you want to repeat the design three times: (48 x 3) + 3 = 147 sc needed (chain 147 + 1 = 148, skip 1 stitch, sc into the rest of the 147)

OR when added to another project:

Repeat between *’s as many times as required for your project.

1 MC JS, *sc48*, sc1, ES

2 CC – JS, *sc48,* sc1, ES

3 MC – JS, *sc5, dc3, sc3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

4 CC – JS, *dc3, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc5) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

5 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1,* sc1, ES

6 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x3, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1,* sc1, ES

7 MC – JS, *sc1, (dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

8 CC – JS, *dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x4,* sc1, ES

9 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1,* sc1, ES

10 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x3, dc1, sc3,* sc1, ES

11 MC – JS, *(sc1, dc1) x2, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc2,* sc1, ES

12 CC – JS, *sc2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, (dc1, sc1) x4,* sc1, ES

13 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x6, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1,* sc1, ES

14 CC – JS, *dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, (dc1, sc1) x5, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc3, sc1,* sc1, ES

15 MC – JS, *sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x5, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc8,* sc1, ES

16 CC – JS, *(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3) x2, dc3, sc1, dc3, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, (dc1, sc3) x2, dc1, sc1, dc8,* sc1, ES

17 MC – JS, *sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc11, dc1, sc7, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc12,* sc1, ES

18 CC – JS, *dc3, sc1, dc1, sc1, dc3, sc1, dc11, sc1, dc7, sc1, dc1, sc3, dc1, sc1, dc12,* sc1, ES

19 MC – JS, *sc31, dc1, sc16,* sc1, ES

20 CC – JS, *dc31, sc1, dc16,* sc1, ES

Trim the fringe, if needed.

Continue with the next FATW6 ocean-themed section!

© 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com

Hobby Stencil Blanket

Not too long ago, I published a square called “Hobby Stencil 40“. This large square was like a puzzle piece. I made 4 of the squares and then joined them together to create a blanket with a full circle motif (although, there are definitely more ways to join them: you could even mix-and-match with other squares of that size.

I used interlocking crochet because the tails and envelope border with overlay mosaic crochet can get annoying. I like how I can get more colors into a blanket this way. I like colors!!

But, I really wanted this cool circle pattern to be more accessible. I know that a LOT of my fans prefer to use the overlay mosaic crochet technique.

So, this blanket is the full circle motif!

It is also handy for people who crochet with the interlocking technique and don’t want to join squares.

But, wait! There’s more!

If you’re familiar with my patterns, you know they always have the written instructions for interlocking crochet, a one-page chart, and then the written instructions for overlay mosaic crochet.

This pattern ALSO has a bonus file: the chart has X’s!!!

Natalie Caruso, a fellow designer, has generously offered to help me add X’s to my charts! I have a lot of patterns, so I’m not sure how long it will take me to update everything. I know you will all be patient while I work 😉

If you’ve already purchased the square you will get an automatic discount on your purchase of this blanket pattern (applies to Ravelry only). Or, you can add both of them to your cart right now to see the discount (buy the blanket and get the square free!).

On Etsy, to help keep the fees down, I’ve bundled the Hobby Stencil square and blanket permanently.

Une Autre Fleur

This is a 3rd companion to my Eiffel Tower Wall Hanging and my Fleur-De-Lis Wall Hanging. A friend found a beautiful design in her pillow and I tried to capture a piece of it here. She helped me name it too! If you don’t speak french, I will tell you it means “Another Flower”. The Fleur-De-Lis is a classic french image and although the image is a bit abstract the translation is a lily flower so this new wall hanging is simply another flower.

You may remember, my Eiffel Tower pattern has been published in Crochet Now! magazine. The rights will revert back to me in a few months and I will publish it to Ravelry and Etsy at that point. The sample in the image below was crocheted using the interlocking technique and only uses two colors (the original in the magazine is overlay mosaic and has 7 colors!).

The Eiffel Tower Wall Hanging – with just two colors

I have created an eBook Bundle for these three Parisian Wall Hangings. You can purchase the bundle now and it will be updated to include the Eiffel Tower at the end of August 2021. Updating is easier on Ravelry but if you don’t use Ravelry I have made it available on Etsy as well.

You can see in this image below that my tester used 2 wooden dowels for each wall hanging – you can do the same, or you can just put one at the top. I love seeing creativity and I always think of my patterns as guidelines or suggestions rather than strict rules. Make your project your own!

Bundle of 3 wall hangings: Eiffel Tower, Fleur-De-Lis, and Une Autre Fleur

On Ravelry: if you already purchased the Fleur-De-Lis Wall Hanging you will receive a retroactive discount on the eBook bundle – it happens automatically.

On Etsy: I have already contacted the individuals who purchased the Fleur-De-Lis

For “Une Autre Fleur Wall Hanging”:

You will receive one file containing:

  • the interlocking pattern (including instructions for adding fringe and attaching a dowel)
  • a one-page chart (101 x 109)
  • the overlay mosaic pattern (including instructions for an optional envelope border and attaching a dowel)

The Locked Filet Mesh (LFM) interlocking crochet method uses only chain spaces and double crochets to create a mesh; two colors are worked alternately which creates the pattern.

Mosaic crochet uses single crochet and double crochet stitches. The double crochet stitches cover some of the other color’s single crochet stitches to create the design. My patterns instruct you to cut your yarn at the end of each row. The back is striped but often gives a faint impression of the pattern on the front (sort of like illusion knitting). See an example here.


I have YouTube tutorials available for both crochet methods! Follow this link to get to my YouTube channel and find my other social links.


Important Details

  • Fingering Weight Yarn (500-520 yards)
  • Main Color (MC) – 250 yards (plus 20 yards for optional SC border when done in interlocking crochet)
  • Accent Color (AC) – 250 yards
  • Plus, extra for fringe
  • Crochet hook: 3 mm (C/2)
  • Stitch marker
  • Finishing Needle
  • Wooden Dowel: 1/2″ diameter, 21″ length
  • Interlocking Gauge: 13 dc stitches x 26 rows in one color = 4” square
  • Mosaic Gauge: 26 sc stitches x 26 rows = 4″ square
This sample shows a dowel on both the top and bottom of the piece – you can also use a single dowel for just the top if you prefer.

©️ 2021 Ashlee Brotzell.
All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution, in whole or in part, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.

What does this mean?
This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed.

Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website http://www.ashleeslint.com